The Great SPS Revolt - Fuzzy Stick Troubleshooting

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Alright R2R,

Apologies for the wall of text in advance......

I've been lurking and watching similar threads for a long time, and have been in this hobby for 20+ years. I did take break for around the last 8ish years, but have never racked my brain or had so many issues keeping more finicky corals than my current tank. I wanted to see if anybody had any sage advise or if a second set of eyes reveals something very obvious I have overlooked for many moons. I think I've just gotten so deep in the trees I think I can't see the forest anymore. It seems like a lot of time threads like this get posted and somebody immediately notices something that is wrong, hoping that is the case here!

The long and short is that I cannot seem to keep SPS alive and thriving for the life of me. I used to have no trouble growing frags into big colonies and then becoming a source of cool frags, but my SPS all seem to do ok for about 2 weeks, then gradually drop color then tissue and STN or just RTN. I've been racking my brain trying to find the cause, my chemistry numbers whenever I check them all have looked great, my PAR readings and flow seem to be ideal as well. The system has been up for about 14 months now, and grows unlimited deep purple coraline algae, but SPS just mock me. I first tried SPS frags about 6 months in, and honestly have around the same result now well over a year in. I'm worried it's an issue I'm overlooking or just haven't thought about, so with that being said here's the rundown below:

The Tank:
  • Deep Blue 80 Gallon Shallow 48" x 24" x 16" (h) - I'm the only owner, never had any medications or copper in it's previous setup, was washed out with RO water both before and after storage
  • Trigger Systems Sapphire Sump = 40 gallons, currently running with 3 filter socks that get changed weekly and rinsed in the sink then afterwards with RO water before they dry for a week and are back in the lineup
    • Skimmer in the first chamber, a softball sized hunk of chaeto in the second chamber and live rock rubble
  • Maxspect Jump SK400 Skimmer - set to 80%
  • Right before the return chamber I have two PolypLab bio bricks standing vertically that were also seeded with Dr. Tim's at startup

  • Rock was a mix of cured rock that I had leftover from the previous setup and new dry rock from BRS.
    • I let it cure for around 3 months and seeded with Dr. Tim's one and only
  • Sand was all Arag-alive, my sand bed is about 2-2.5" deep
Flow:
  • Vectra S2 as a main return pump, I have it tuned to 30%. Both loc line returns are pointed across the surface
  • Vortech MP40 set to Reef Crest, running at 40% at night, 65% during the day
  • Vortech MP40W (older model) also set to reef crest, running 40% at night, 65% during the day
  • Maxspect Jump Gyre 4k - Set to progressive gyre max 50%
  • Small Powerhead in the sump pointed upwards under the dosing lines to help mix, but it lives in the return pump chamber to agitate the drips
Control/Dosing:
  • Apex EL Controller with a PAR meter module, Trident
  • Dosing ESV 2 part Alk, Calcium and Mag through two separate DOS pumps, all under smart control and seemingly maintaining parameters at ideal levels
    • Currently Alk dosing ~19 mL per day spread over the day
    • Currently Ca dosing ~10 mL per day spread over the day
    • Currently Mg dosing ~22 mL per day spread over the day
Water Chemistry and Production
  • RO: BRS 7 stage (upgraded from 5 stage about 2 months ago) - Always reading 0 TDS, changing the resins before they get to 2/3 golden. Pressure into the system with a booster pump at recommended 70 PSI
  • Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt - never had the Turkish fiasco blend, briefly ran a Blue bucket of red sea when supplies were low but this was around 6 months ago
  • I change about 5-7 gallons per week

  • pH Ranges each day from 8.15-8.38. I reverse the fuge light cycle to help temper this
  • Salinity - 1.025, checked with calibrated refractometer
  • Temp 76.5-78 F
  • Alk Range : 8.35-8.5 based on trident, my Hanna checked thinks it's +.4 or so on this number
  • Ca Range: 420-430 based on Trident, but when I spot check with Red Sea kits it's in this general range
  • Mg Range: 1290-1340 based on Trident, also spot checked with the updated version of the Hanna Checker
  • Phos Range : 0.02-0.06 with Hanna Checker, it once had spiked to 0.1 but that was isolated and months ago
  • Nitrate Range: 4-10 ppm with Hanna Checker
  • Last ICP was a few months ago and really only showed that my Lithium was out of line at 407 ug/L , but I saw another thread here that this wasn't of much consequence in most cases so didn't chase it
  • I had tried dosing AcroPower and Red Sea AB+ but didn't seem to change the success rate
  • Planning repeat ICP this week
Lighting - I THINK this is the issue, but LEDs continue to baffle me. I swear I don't mess with them!
  • Radion XR15 Blue Gen 5 x3 mounted on the RMS arms
  • I run AB+ at 70% intensity, lights on 11:30 am - 8:30 pm
  • At peak light: Every channel to 100%, the point intensity is 100% but again the schedule intensity is only 70%
  • PAR checked initially with a rental Apogee to a max of 275-300 on the top of the tank but this was at 85% intensity that I've backed off of
  • I run an Apex PAR meter that maxes at 250-255 during the max day that is higher than any coral in the tank
Corals
  • Two torches doing fine and happy
  • Large colony of Zoas that have gotten away from me, but they are not Palys
  • Several smaller zoa frags, but no leathers or other known toxin emitters
  • Attempts at Millipora, Montipora, Acropora, etc have been met with resistance, the only hard coral that seems to be doing ok is a green branching monti but it's coloration is more green/brown than neon green that it was on arrival
  • All coral gets a brief CoralRX dip, inspected for parasites, never had any sightings of SPS red bugs or nudis
  • I typically will put new SPS frags on a rack low towards the sand to let them recover for a few days, then mount them with PolypLab glue on their frag discs to the rockwork higher up to get more light and flow. I don't handle the frags

Non Sessile Tank Inhabitants
  • Purple Tang
  • Whitetail Tang
  • Melanurus Wrasse
  • Flasher Wrasse
  • Frostbite Clown
  • 1 Cleaner Shrimp
  • 1 Peppermint (yes actually a peppermint) shrimp
  • Fighting Conch x2
  • Astrea Snails + blue leg hermits

I really appreciate anybody's thoughts, it's the darn SPS that just won't seem to take. A shiny nod of gratitude for the reefer who solves this conundrum!
NC
 

Dburr1014

7500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 8, 2016
Messages
8,426
Reaction score
8,459
Location
CT
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Wow, that a lot of magnesium you dose.
Sorry, that is the only thing that stands out to me.

There have been some threads about viruses in tanks. Fixed with chemiclean or cipro? I think. Not saying this is the case but could be.
I really don't see anything else atm.
 

ScottB

7500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
7,884
Reaction score
12,164
Location
Fairfield County, CT
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Unreal that your setup is an almost copy cat of the one I set up a few years back. I am a little surprised on your PAR reading -- I would've expected more from 3 X XR15s. It wouldn't hurt SPS to run harder, but not likely the sole culprit. I would raise them a little if necessary and firewall them for 350+.

As you know, all your numbers are fine for raising SPS. Clearly not your first rodeo. Somebody might comment on the Marine Pure blocks and potential Al contamination but I run cubic yards of the stuff and do just fine. No Al anomaly shows in my ICPs.

I am going to suggest you just need more time / microorganism diversity. Dead rock starts (cured is NOT live rock) just take a LONG time for the biome to stay friendly and stable. You could check this with Aquabiomics testing if you are curious. If you have SPONGES growing then you are getting REALLY close. I would just adding/trying (cheap) sticks until all the right bacteria are present in the appropriate proportion. While acros get the vast majority of their energy needs met via photosynthesis, their next favorite source is bacteria. Virtually 100% of their PO4 uptake comes via consuming the bacteria that consume phosphates. (Lou Ekus, YT)

If you are patient, wait it out. If you are not, source some quality live rock and sump it.
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
See, you all are already thinking of things I had not considered, and I appreciate your thoughts tremendously.

I should add that I've also got a Pentair UV sterilizer that's been running at anti-parasite flow rates but functioning fine.

So on the last ICP other than the lithium nothing was well out of spec, but to be honest I had never utilized any of these bio-brick type surfaces before, I do wonder sometimes if it is leaching something but I figured the ICP would have detected that.


The usual sequence once SPS is added: Looks great for a week, polyp extension, I get excited. Around day 7-9 I notice it starts to pale and worry, usually lowering them doesn't change this, eventually I notice tissue is missing and by day 20 or so it becomes a ghost.

I've added some photos of the tank as is currently, as well as what my PAR map showed when the tank was started. I certainly COULD raise the PAR up, but with the sequence I was more worried they were getting blasted instead of not enough, I'm yet to have a coral brown. Is there anything I'm not thinking of running AB+ on an XR15 Blue with everything at 100% during peak cycle? My understanding is the XR15 Blue at 100% basically = AB+, and you don't need to dial the whites/reds/greens down to around 25% like you would on a radion pro model.

I do believe that I have some sponge growth, but they might also just be tunicates, photo also attached. My "successful" green monti also attached, but it's becoming a dull green vs the vibrant neon it was on arrival (think apple messages icon)


Thanks everyone for their thoughts!

1670887166050.png




1670887215303.png



1670887443941.png


1670887486682.png
 

SkinnyMcGinny

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 12, 2018
Messages
67
Reaction score
111
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm gonna +1 maybe you just need more time to create a more balanced biome. I struggled with SPS for my first couple of years. Killed a lot. Now, I can't stop the stuff, growing outta the top of the tank. I don't think I changed anything. Tank just need to settle down. Not scientific, but that was my experience.
 

ninjamyst

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
2,596
Reaction score
3,944
Location
Orlando
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Are you using esv bionic? I didn't know you have to dose mg separately. I thought bionic 2 parts contain mg already.

I recommend just feeding more and getting your PO4 up. You could be at zero and not even know it because of test kit margin of error.
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Are you using esv bionic? I didn't know you have to dose mg separately. I thought bionic 2 parts contain mg already.

I recommend just feeding more and getting your PO4 up. You could be at zero and not even know it because of test kit margin of error.
Yes, ESV B-ionic 2 part.

I had initially only been dosing the 2 part, but in the troubleshooting fight started checking mag and noticed it was dropping frequently . Added their mag product and levels have been fairly set ever since
 

dwest

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 27, 2018
Messages
4,503
Reaction score
9,463
Location
Northern KY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I don‘t use coral RX on SPS. Any chance that is too harsh? The 2 week life is pretty short. My next vote is time as mentioned above.
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I don‘t use coral RX on SPS. Any chance that is too harsh? The 2 week life is pretty short. My next vote is time as mentioned above.
I wondered this too, if it helps sort this out I have added from super reputable sources and gone without a dip with pretty similar results
 

minus9

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
5,425
Reaction score
6,438
Location
Los Angeles (SFV)
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
How long is your peak intensity period for lighting? It doesn't seem that long to me. I would think you need 6-8hrs of peak intensity well over 300+ micro moles, if not more for sps, especially acropora. How often are you feeding your fish? I don't go by numbers, I go by the observation of the animals. It's hard to tell by the blue pic, but that monti looks like it's starving to me.
 

David_CO

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Messages
260
Reaction score
180
Location
Colorado
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Where do you get your frags? acros tend to have a ~2 weekish delayed response to stress events. Ive noticed the shipping mortality rate is way higher than when i get stuff local, especially if its not well encrusted.
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
How long is your peak intensity period for lighting? It doesn't seem that long to me. I would think you need 6-8hrs of peak intensity well over 300+ micro moles, if not more for sps, especially acropora. How often are you feeding your fish? I don't go by numbers, I go by the observation of the animals. It's hard to tell by the blue pic, but that monti looks like it's starving to me.

The Radions basically have 30ish minutes of ramp up and ramp down, so they're getting that 6-8 hours of max intensity. Fish get fed daily alternating a cube of PE mysis or a similiar sized hunk of LRS Reef Frenzy both of which I soak in Selcon. Tangs get about a 1/2-3/4 sheet of Nori each day on their feeder.

Am I crazy to be worried about too intense or the wrong spectrum of lighting? My reaction to corals turning white has always been to dampen the lighting, I always used to ride or die on PAR numbers but with LEDs I feel like I've just gotten more confused. When I set the tank up I was pretty sure that I could getaway with that 90-95% intensity number to blanket the tank in 300 up top and 150ish on the sand, but it felt like that just nuked everything.
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Where do you get your frags? acros tend to have a ~2 weekish delayed response to stress events. Ive noticed the shipping mortality rate is way higher than when i get stuff local, especially if its not well encrusted.

Almost all are local from a nationally known LFS in CO, I've tried ordering some well proven frags as well from some of the more prominent online sources that are beloved here, it's not their fault!

Shipping stress is definitely a thing though, I'm lucky to have a great LFS
 

minus9

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
5,425
Reaction score
6,438
Location
Los Angeles (SFV)
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
But 200-250 micro moles for that long isn't much for acropora. Don't over think lighting, just find a usable spectrum and provide enough intensity for 6-8hrs. I think feeding your fish smaller meals throughout the day is much better than a couple times a day with bigger portions. I also don't feed nori either, my tangs are busy eating algae, as they should be. I honestly think your sps are starving for light and nutrients.
For acropora, you need to provide 350+ micro moles for at least 6hrs a day.
 

mermaid_life

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
762
Reaction score
603
Location
San Diego
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
IME if it's too low lighting, easy sps should still survive. They just start brown/green.

I also find the magnesium super suspicious. I have only ever had to dose magnesium in the beginning when ca and alk were balancing out and then when I get lazy on water changes

It might be helpful to see pics of the decline of sps....

Thoughts on starting with a Stylo?
 
OP
OP
NexusCriteria

NexusCriteria

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
48
Location
USA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
See! You all immediately notice that while I’m fixated on the number.
Interestingly enough I CAN keep stylo so far. Have a nice rainbow one that seems happy
 

spsick

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
1,428
Reaction score
1,671
Location
Mpls, MN
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It’s seems like you’re doing everything right but I have a couple questions and a couple observations.

Are you siphoning the sand or just letting it be?

Have you done an ICP? Something like tin will def cause this.

Have you taken some water to an LFS or another hobbyist to confirm numbers? It seems weird you’re needing to add that much mag. I have a similar size sps tank full of acropora and I almost never have to add beyond water changes and part C.

-it seems like you’re doing a ton of export. Maybe turn the skimmer down and see what happens?

-the PAR numbers you have are fine and definitely not in the killing coral in 2 weeks range I don’t trust anyone that says different.

If it were my tank I would pull the bio blocks and change more water. I’m currently at 10g a week and seeing better results than when I did 7g a week.
 
Back
Top