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I prefer the digital Hanna for PO4. You may see some rebounding as the phosguard will pull it out of the water pretty quickly and then it will slowly go back up as the rocks/sand release PO4 to equilibrate with the water concentration. I wouldn't worry that much as you are going in the direction you want and will get there eventually.All corals LPS / Zoas looking good, as of today PO4 is slightly lowered, between .5 and .25. Might just be the placebo effect as the Salifert kit makes it so difficult to determine...
Going to wait tlil the lights have been on for ~3 hours to change out the phosphate media.
Hanna checkers for alk, no3, and PO4 work great. Salifert for calcium and magnesium.I prefer the digital Hanna for PO4. You may see some rebounding as the phosguard will pull it out of the water pretty quickly and then it will slowly go back up as the rocks/sand release PO4 to equilibrate with the water concentration. I wouldn't worry that much as you are going in the direction you want and will get there eventually.
Important note: his tank is longer and his sps are not positioned as well. His frag rack is in the bottom corner of the aquarium.I’m just here to stop the Kessil haters… and the “can’t grow sticks in a young tank” mantra.
My tank was established 7/28/24. 2x Kessil ap9x on 48/24x16 tank. Run 60 percent for 5 hours and then ramp up and ramp down slowly. There’s definitely another problem.
You mentioned previous heavy metal issue. 0.5 phosphate is definitely high by most standards. Don’t change your lights so fast. It does look like they’re a little high to me. I’d do some major water changes and try again with some testers.
Heres my proof to maybe focus on the right things here to help the OP better.
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When acquired
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2 months later (approximately)
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When acquired
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3 months later (approximately)
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FTS
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FTS
I know that Kessil can grow SPS and have done it before. Your tank looks beautiful and its encouraging that you've experienced what I desire. There's been a lot of road bumps in getting this tank up and running all brought about by a rusty stand next to the tank. As a result of that I made a bunch of quick knee jerk reaction changes instead of taking it slow.It has been suggested multiple times to get new lights. Yes noted his frag rack does seem ill positioned. It just seems everyone always says it’s the “age of the tank” and buy new lights. Both seem to skirt around the issue. There’s definitely another problem here.
These two answers thrown out there seem to not answer the question but suggest impossibilities with his current setup. I do think my setup shows that he should not be discouraged by his lighting or age of the tank, but focus on coral placement and water quality.
How long do your Acropora usually last before succumbing? I’d think an acro could survive quite some time with 100 par.
Wow really dude? I have been contributing from nearly the beginning and read every post and put a lot of thought into my replies based on the information given and my experience and how I might be able to give advice to help.The OP has a PAR meter.... Have you read through the thread?
Yes it says that but if you read further it says he is estimating based on BRS video. I don't think it was actually checked with a par meterHe checked with a par meter. That's where the 80-100 par came from its in the last post on page 1.
Get po4 down with the phosgaurd it's what I use when needed.
Now from the pic the tank looks very dim. Get the par meter you used and turn up and create a map for future reference.
I can not comment on your light as I have never ran them.
Op can chime in but it does say this.
"I checked with a par meter and my levels (where my frag rack is) is around 80-100 par. I have hot spots of ~400 where my light overlaps".
He later said he origanly set up the lights based on brs recommendations.
I can only go by what is said.
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This is my lighting schedule I'll update this post with Par Readings when I get them.
Layout of the lights are 13 inches in from either side of the tank, mounted 10inches off the water surface.