Step by step full spectrum diy led build

[Sacohen]

Very nice build and easy to understand. My first thought when I was reading it was if your "heatssink" actually worked, but it seems to.
I'd like to see the results of the test you are going to do tonight or over the weekend too.

My other question, which seems to have been answered somewhat, was is the dimmable feature controllable from a RKL or something like that.

This is the only DYI Build that seemed to cover all the bases and still be somewhat affordable.

 

[greg0385]

Thanks for all the kind comments, i believe you need a different type of dimmable driver to be able to be controlled by a apex or any other type of controller. I used maxwellen dimmable driver


To me it seems to have the most bang for the buck and i couldnt be happier. I have full control over each color spectrum, fully dimmable full spectrum kit.

The only way it could be better is if i had the proper modules to be able to use my apexjr to ramp up/down the leds.


I am researching different pot/dimmers like the type people use in homes that the dial pushes in for on/off and twist for dim.

That will eventually happen ;)

Thanks
Greg

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[Stusdesktop]

I will do a experiment tonight or this weekend with a digital temp. And will hold the probe to heat sink, then to the leds. If this is a concern for others then this is a concern of mine.

Thanks for everyone's concern

Greg

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I'm running a similar DIY fixture and am having zero heat issues, admittedly my LED's are on 1/4 inch aluminum plate rather than channels.
I do have a pair of fans running on the fixture but with it hanging as it is there is plenty of airflow without them.
Aquastyle 90 LED kit as the basis with extra LED colors to round out the spectrum.

Details here: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/le...g-do-yourself-light-emitting.html#post1225432
Over tank lighting here: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/me...ess-including-light-emitting.html#post1246717

 

[greg0385]

^^Good looking build^^
I uses 1/16 gauge metal but as i said in a earlier post, its 3/4" c-channel, so if you were to flatten it out it nearly be 2"wide. Plus there is a 1" gap in between the c-channels with plenty of air above and around the leds to keep cool.

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[ReeferBob]

I think your dimmer controller is controllable by a reefkeeper or other controller. Their (RK) ALC controller add-on outputs 2 different 0-10v triggers for dimmable lights. As long as the controller you use accepts that input, you can control it with the RK.

 

[PaulKreider]

What kind of glue did you use to hold the led's to the heatsink?

 

[dwilliams87]

What kind of glue did you use to hold the led's to the heatsink?

It is a heat-transfering paste that came with the kit. I run the same lights on three different tanks with no problems whatsoever. I've never even felt my framing get warm.

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[PaulKreider]

Yeah thats what i used was a heat sink paste, I just dont see how that little heat sink area, and without a lack of a cooling fan, that they're not getting hot! Sounds like I wasted some money on these 20x6 heatsinks -__-

 

[Sacohen]

Greg;

If I remember you said in an earlier post that Apex makes a module for controlling the dimmers.
I really like this build and will probably do it when I get some money.
I don't have a controller yet and am trying to figure out what I want against what I need, against price.

 

[greg0385]

Greg;

If I remember you said in an earlier post that Apex makes a module for controlling the dimmers.
I really like this build and will probably do it when I get some money.
I don't have a controller yet and am trying to figure out what I want against what I need, against price.

Dwilliams should be able to tell you what type of driver you need to be able to use a controller. For the life of me, i cant remember what special type you need.

Sorry

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[Sacohen]

I'm by all means not an expert on this, but I have read something about Meanwell driver I think?
Does that ring a bell?

 

[greg0385]

I believe so, but dwilliams or maybe somebody else can confirm this

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[ReeferBob]

Here are some specs on the Maxwellen controller. I don't think it is controllable by anything accept a potentiometer.

Maxwellen LED Dimmable Driver (12-20)x3watt LEDs

• Input voltage: AC 100-240V 50-60Hz
• Output voltage: 30-70V
• Output current(constant): 680mA +/-5%
• Power range: Minimum 12 LEDs, Maximum 20 LEDs (in series)
• Dimmable control: Potentiometer
• Water proof: IP66
• Dimension: 11.5cm x 3.7cm x 2.8cm(H)
• Net weight: 0.25kg

See how this one has the 1-10v text on the dimmable control section?

MeanWell ELN-60-48D
Input Voltage: 110-240V AC
Output Voltage: 24-48V DC
Output Current: 0-1.3A
Dimming Control: 1-10V DC

Waterproof IP64
Dimension: 181(L) x 61.5(W) x 35(H)mm (7.2"x2.4"x1.4")

 

[gmoney243]

Ok let me see if i can help. Meanwell drivers are the popular ones.most seem to use. But not all of them are controllable. To dim like sunrise/sunset u need drivers using a PWM signal. As far as heat on those u-channel goes many in our area have uses it for years and my leds have been running over a year with no heat or burned out leds. They do not get as hot as a normal heatsink and they still keep the leds cool enough. I bleach my corals before the u-channels get warm. Which they will at 100% all channels but still cool enough to touch and hold.

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[gmoney243]

Here are some specs on the Maxwellen controller. I don't think it is controllable by anything accept a potentiometer.

Maxwellen LED Dimmable Driver (12-20)x3watt LEDs

• Input voltage: AC 100-240V 50-60Hz
• Output voltage: 30-70V
• Output current(constant): 680mA +/-5%
• Power range: Minimum 12 LEDs, Maximum 20 LEDs (in series)
• Dimmable control: Potentiometer
• Water proof: IP66
• Dimension: 11.5cm x 3.7cm x 2.8cm(H)
• Net weight: 0.25kg

See how this one has the 1-10v text on the dimmable control section?

MeanWell ELN-60-48D
Input Voltage: 110-240V AC
Output Voltage: 24-48V DC
Output Current: 0-1.3A
Dimming Control: 1-10V DC

Waterproof IP64
Dimension: 181(L) x 61.5(W) x 35(H)mm (7.2"x2.4"x1.4")

There are 2 types of meanwell drivers one ends witha D other with a P. I believe the P are the ones with PWM signal the D are just dimmable with a pot.

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[ReeferBob]

There are 2 types of meanwell drivers one ends witha D other with a P. I believe the P are the ones with PWM signal the D are just dimmable with a pot.

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Correct and they have some that do both.

 

[dwilliams87]

Greg you have the dimmable maxwellen drivers.

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[dwilliams87]

You do have to have the meanwell to use a controller.

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[turbo21]

I have the same bridgelux led's over my tank and the aluminum channel barely gets warm. I think you are in the right area keeping t-5s on your tank. I have had my leds running for 18 months and my tank and electric bill look great but my growth has been terrible. Very very slow growth on most of my sps under these leds. but all my zoas have all grown relatively fast

I recently added in 6 36" t-5s to the led's over my 220 and hope to see a change. I can tell you that the bridgelux led's only put out about 2/3 the amount of par that a cree led will. and after 18 months of bridgelux i am starting to think there is something to having crees that are binned to have the correct spectrum. there is definitely something missing from the bridgelux led's

bob

 

[dwilliams87]

Turbo, do people with crees tend to have the same response as far as growth, or is that an Led thing all together?

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