Sump Question

Discussion in 'Connecticut Area Reef Society' started by cccharliecc, Dec 5, 2017.

  1. cccharliecc

    cccharliecc Well-Known Member

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    I have a 40 Gallon breeder sump with no baffles in it yet.

    Couple questions.
    1. Do I really need a fuge in the sump if I am doing a fish only tank?

    2. Do you really need to install all the baffles....if....I have the returns going into a box/container in the sump in the middle that is slightly higher than the sump so it overflows/spills into into the 40 gallon breeder. Then the skimmer on one side and the return pump on the other side?
     
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  2. crabs_mcjones

    crabs_mcjones I was a drab little crab once R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor

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    You only need to do a refugium chamber if you intend on doing a refugium, otherwise if you're not its potential wasted space. One reason for baffles is for bubble traps, i've seen bare minimum sumps that are literally just a 10 or 20 gallon tank that the water falls into a filter sock, then goes through the skimmer on one end and the return pump on the other side with rock rubble inbetween them with no baffles or walls whatsoever. It basically boils down to do whatever works for you :) There is no right or wrong way to design a sump.
     
  3. kgstei

    kgstei Well-Known Member CTARS Member

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    You probably don't need baffles in your sump. My previous sump was a 40- breeder. Like you I had a separate container in the sump. In mine that's where I put the return pump so that if my overflow iclogged I wouldn't pump the full contents of the sump into the display tank and then overflow the display. When I replaced that sump I did use baffles. The first section was filter socks and skimmer. The skimmer outflow went into the main section I did this because I figured it would make the skimmer more efficient as I only skimming the water that came directly out of the display and not combining with previously skimmed water which you will have in your system. My middle section is live rock and chaeto with the third chamber being the return pump. The thing to be aware of with sumps is to watch out for sipons and allow room for any water that will drain back into the sump during power outages or pump failures.
     
  4. pecan2phat

    pecan2phat Well-Known Member

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    IMO, if your sump is large enough, you do not need the baffles to aid in elimination of micro bubbles.
    I used a standard 75g as a basement sump and it did well with just filter socks and some base rock to aid the nitrifying area since I over stocked fish in the display.
    Also depends if you plan to run what they call a "high flow sump" which basically is a high turnover via the return pump. The higher the return flow and less sump area will equal micro bubbles!
     
  5. cccharliecc

    cccharliecc Well-Known Member

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  6. Fudsey

    Fudsey Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I would use glass for baffles as acrylic can and does warp especially if wet and pressure behind it. I made my sump out of a 40B and went to a local glass place and had them cut and round the edges for me. 4 baffles cost me $80. The only baffle that is really necessary is one for your skimmer to maintain water level at a constant. the rest are really not needed. You could do 2 sections with one baffle set to the depth you want your skimmer at and the other section where the return is. This is where you top off or use a ATO
     
  7. Idoc

    Idoc Well-Known Member R2R Supporter MTRCMember Build Thread Contributor

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    1/4" glass baffles. Cost me $34 to have a glass place cut them and safety bevel the edges. I used 3 baffles in my 40g breeder...i have a small refug in mine.
     
  8. Whyteboy

    Whyteboy Well-Known Member

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    You can go with acrylic but you have to be careful. The only time the baffle will have any significant amount of pressure is when you are filling it up. When the sump is full and running your baffles shouldn't bow since the pressure on both sides will be close to equal. If you drain a chamber thats when the problems can occur.
     
  9. cccharliecc

    cccharliecc Well-Known Member

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    Do you guys use those filter socks and holders like in the picture? Looks like it would be nice to plumb the pipes going into the sump like that with a couple unions and ball valves for more control.
     
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  10. Useful_Idiot

    Useful_Idiot Artificially Intelligent R2R Supporter CTARS Member

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    If you do cut them yourself leave plenty of space between the walls of the sump. Acrylic expands a small amount when wet and if it is tight between the tank walls it can expand enough to break the glass.
     
  11. Idoc

    Idoc Well-Known Member R2R Supporter MTRCMember Build Thread Contributor

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    Which type of drain are you planning to run...durso pipe, herbie, or beananimal style? I'm using a herbie style and its dead quiet. Either way, I would recommend plumbing your main siphon line with a gate valve rather than a ball valve. Gate valve gives more precise tuning which will be very important.

    And yes, many people run filter socks. I use a filter sock holder held on with a magnet... made by Octo Acrylics. It is working very nicely and can be moved easily.

    Also, make sure you definitely use unions throughout your plumbing design. You will be happy you did if you need to make any changes.
     
  12. Emerson

    Emerson Well-Known Member

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  13. pecan2phat

    pecan2phat Well-Known Member

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    What I like that most sump manufacturers do now is where the water exits via a vented pipe into a partition and the water then cascades over into multiple socks vs a pipe straight into a sock.
     
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