Sump Setup Guide?

[Harry g]

Are there any informative videos that demonstrate/guide you on how to plumb/setup a tank? I have a 40 gallon breeder that I want to plumb with my 20g high, I think I know the basics, just water gets pulled into the overflow and than goes through mechanical filtration and what not and than it goes back up using a DC pump, but I’m sure there’s other stuff that I’m missing and stuff I need to include in the plumbing like shutoff valves and extra security features/redundancy.

I should also add that I’ve already setup and had a tank for a couple months now so I don’t really need to know much about the cycling part or stuff related to that more specifically towards how the plumbing works.

Any advice is appreciated TYIA.

 

[rayadog]

I struggled to find clear cut examples. It can get very complex pretty quickly (at least for me, for the first time). I ended up scrubbing through a handful of BRS youtube videos on the subject and copying their generic images if beginner/intermediate/advanced sump set ups.

How to Plumb a Sump - Plumbing Diagrams For Your Aquarium Sump

Learn how to build and plumb a sump that is specifically designed for you and your tank.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

If you can find a reason to put a threaded union in some places it usually doesn’t hurt. Makes assembly/disassembly/maintenance/modifying slightly easier in the long run.

 

[Harry g]

I struggled to find clear cut examples. It can get very complex pretty quickly (at least for me, for the first time). I ended up scrubbing through a handful of BRS youtube videos on the subject and copying their generic images if beginner/intermediate/advanced sump set ups.

How to Plumb a Sump - Plumbing Diagrams For Your Aquarium Sump

Learn how to build and plumb a sump that is specifically designed for you and your tank.

www.bulkreefsupply.com

If you can find a reason to but a threaded union in some places it usually doesn’t hurt. Makes assembly/disassembly/maintenance/modifying slightly easier in the long run.

Honestly the BRS example is the best thing I’ve found, it’s still not too much in depth though.

These are my main questions right now, if anyone could answer them I would appreciate it. How do you determine the GPH that goes through the sump, like from the overflow to the filter sock, does only the return pumps GPH matter?

 

[dedragon]

only the return pumps GPH matter?

return pump will determine the gph in the sump. overflow piping diameter and number of drains need to be enough to allow for the flowrate (not really a huge problem given dc return pumps). gate valve on the main drain is a must
if this is to be added on with a hob overflow box i usually dont suggest it. just adds another point of failure for the tank.

 

[twentyleagues]

First and foremost you need to know or decide what overflow you are going to use. Overflows are rated in gph that they can handle. Are you attempting to add one to a tank or does the tank have one already? If you are adding to the tank is the tank dry or running? Hang on back overflow scare me they fail pretty regularly. I wont use them. For a new tank without overflow there are a few manufactures of overflows that typically come with glass hole saws, eshopps, synergy, fiji cube, I have used Eshopps and they are pretty straight forward and reliable. Its pretty disheartening to find out the glass is not drillable after you start drilling so make sure the glass isnt tempered before you buy everything and ruin the tank. There are guides online to help figure this out but I would be "surprised" to see a tempered 40b. Most of the time a single hole through the glass will typically mean around 600 gph but since the hole through the glass is typically a larger diameter than the pipes that lead to the sump the number of pipes in the overflow box really dictate the flow rate. At any rate if the box is designed to handle up to 600 gph I would shoot for a return pump that will deliver 400-500 gph at the tank after head height. Head height is the distance from the pumps output to the tank "inlet" for water including any restriction from pipes including elbows and what not. I would not say this is a task for someone new to reef tanks or fish tanks in general. But to be honest if you are a diy type person or comfortable with working with tools, cutting wood, building stuff, plumbing, its not that difficult either, I learned by doing it myself.

I Googled a few things like, reef tank plumbing, how to install an overflow on a reef tank, how to plumb a sump for a fish tank, how to drill an aquarium, and found quite a few videos and walk throughs just now. Its not always easy to just tell someone how to do this, not everyone learns the same or teaches the same. I dont know your knowledge level or your "skill" level so I tried to make the above as easy to understand as I could. Was that over your head? IDK. Or was it too "easy" and not enough detail? IDK again. But I hope that helped somewhat. Try googling what I did and watch a few minutes or hours of youtube videos. Try starting at the point of how will you get the water out of the tank and to the sump probably the most important place to start since typically we want the water to stay in the aquarium.

 

[Harry g]

First and foremost you need to know or decide what overflow you are going to use. Overflows are rated in gph that they can handle. Are you attempting to add one to a tank or does the tank have one already? If you are adding to the tank is the tank dry or running? Hang on back overflow scare me they fail pretty regularly. I wont use them. For a new tank without overflow there are a few manufactures of overflows that typically come with glass hole saws, eshopps, synergy, fiji cube, I have used Eshopps and they are pretty straight forward and reliable. Its pretty disheartening to find out the glass is not drillable after you start drilling so make sure the glass isnt tempered before you buy everything and ruin the tank. There are guides online to help figure this out but I would be "surprised" to see a tempered 40b. Most of the time a single hole through the glass will typically mean around 600 gph but since the hole through the glass is typically a larger diameter than the pipes that lead to the sump the number of pipes in the overflow box really dictate the flow rate. At any rate if the box is designed to handle up to 600 gph I would shoot for a return pump that will deliver 400-500 gph at the tank after head height. Head height is the distance from the pumps output to the tank "inlet" for water including any restriction from pipes including elbows and what not. I would not say this is a task for someone new to reef tanks or fish tanks in general. But to be honest if you are a diy type person or comfortable with working with tools, cutting wood, building stuff, plumbing, its not that difficult either, I learned by doing it myself.

I Googled a few things like, reef tank plumbing, how to install an overflow on a reef tank, how to plumb a sump for a fish tank, how to drill an aquarium, and found quite a few videos and walk throughs just now. Its not always easy to just tell someone how to do this, not everyone learns the same or teaches the same. I dont know your knowledge level or your "skill" level so I tried to make the above as easy to understand as I could. Was that over your head? IDK. Or was it too "easy" and not enough detail? IDK again. But I hope that helped somewhat. Try googling what I did and watch a few minutes or hours of youtube videos. Try starting at the point of how will you get the water out of the tank and to the sump probably the most important place to start since typically we want the water to stay in the aquarium.

How much would you say all the piping and stuff costs? I was looking at the UNS Reef System, and it seems a little steep to be paying 100$ for just pipes, it is already set up though so that’s nice.

 

[Harry g]

only the return pumps GPH matter?

return pump will determine the gph in the sump. overflow piping diameter and number of drains need to be enough to allow for the flowrate (not really a huge problem given dc return pumps). gate valve on the main drain is a must
if this is to be added on with a hob overflow box i usually dont suggest it. just adds another point of failure for the tank.

Would you recommend the eclipse S overflow box? And is it a bad idea to buy it used?

 

[Kooma]

Sumps are simple and their setup is even easier.

Two to three drains from tank overflow to the sump.

Drain 1, full siphon, GATE style valve.
Drain 2, 5% of water flow, for emergency use mostly.
Options drain 3, stand pipe above drain 2, never sees water unless you have a clogged primary and a snail stuck in #2.

In the sump, one baffle 8” tall 7 inches from the end of the sump tank is all you need. You can add more for more separation if desired. All equipment goes in big area, your return pump goes in the 7” area on the end.

Heaters, skimmer, reactors, whatever, in the big side of the sump.

Auto top off sensor goes in the 7” area.

Done.

 

[twentyleagues]

How much would you say all the piping and stuff costs? I was looking at the UNS Reef System, and it seems a little steep to be paying 100$ for just pipes, it is already set up though so that’s nice.

Really depends if you just go to a big box store the pipes are cheap 90s 45s unions are more but not terrible. The money you'll want to spend will be on a good gate valve for the main drain line or lines. Get a spears double union if possible. I would say probably conservatively $30-40 in random parts and another $40-50 for the gate valve. Dont use ball valves to control flow. they are cheaper but not the same.

 

[twentyleagues]

Would you recommend the eclipse S overflow box? And is it a bad idea to buy it used?

Yes I have used them and like them dont buy it used getting gaskets is not easy and you dont want to deal with old ones. The s only has 2 pipes which isnt an issue just look up a herbie style and go with that. Max flow which would be way more than you need is 600gph on the s. I would shoot for like I said above around 400gph at most.

 

[dedragon]

Would you recommend the eclipse S overflow box? And is it a bad idea to buy it used?

I wouldnt risk used, but yes that is fine. You will need to drill the hole in the tank

 

[Harry g]

Would you recommend the eclipse S overflow box? And is it a bad idea to buy it used?

Yes I have used them and like them dont buy it used getting gaskets is not easy and you dont want to deal with old ones. The s only has 2 pipes which isnt an issue just look up a herbie style and go with that. Max flow which would be way more than you need is 600gph on the s. I would shoot for like I said above around 400gph at most.

Okay so I think I’m going to start there, I heard it comes with the drill bit too? Also would you recommend getting a long tank instead of a high tank, I already have the 20g high but I’m starting to think it would be hard to work on, I’m thinking about converting it into a sump with the refugium sump kits sold online.

 

[dedragon]

I’m thinking about converting it into a sump with the refugium sump kits sold online.

just make sure you have clearance in the cabinet so you can get equipment in and out easily. 20 high is very narrow and tall. harder to scape imo

 

[twentyleagues]

Okay so I think I’m going to start there, I heard it comes with the drill bit too? Also would you recommend getting a long tank instead of a high tank, I already have the 20g high but I’m starting to think it would be hard to work on, I’m thinking about converting it into a sump with the refugium sump kits sold online.

Long would be better for a sump. They do come with the drill bit, but thats another issue with used. How many tanks were drilled with that bit? They wear out after a couple. Good bits can get through a few tanks before they wont anymore these are not great quality but they work fine for 1 or 2.

 

[Harry g]

Well ended up dropping 130$ on the eclipse overflow box S, will update when I receive it. Im thinking about making a build thread for this setup, since I feel like I missed out on making one for my 20g.