T. Maxima question

[enricocoron]

So I have been thinking about a clam but have been hesitant especially seeing lots of 1 inch clams on online sites and shipping such a sensitive animal seems like I'm asking for trouble, and then I'm picking up some pods at an LFS and they have like a 3-4 inch super healthy looking T. Maxima, they said they've had him awhile, but they hardly order them because they just don't sell often. I have a 20 gal Q tank with an AI prime 26 over it that is cycled right now, and I have a perfect spot in the DT for the clam to anchor in basically a natural ravine between two rocks (the DT is 60 cube with a Radion Gen 5 XR15 Blue at 82% output - PAR probably 125-150 where the clam would sit, if you believe the BRSTV testing), I have only one Acro up near the surface and he is growing really well now, as is a digi monti and a bunch of LPS/brains. I run GFO/carbon and vodka dose in the sump and trickle all for reef. My normal readings are <1 Nitrate, .01-.04 PO4, 7-7.5 dkh, 410-430 Ca++, 1250-1300 Mg, Temp 78, salinity 1.025, pH 8.1.
I was thinking I might need to up the kH and Calcium but what are your thoughts? Its an expensive clam, but I feel like I would have a much better chance with a 3-4 inch super healthy specimen I can drive home in 10 minutes with, versus a 1 inch clam shipped overnight (and who knows where it shipped before that!). If you do believe clams are better off left in the ocean, or for those with Halides still running I appreciate the honesty, I don't want to waste a bunch of money to watch a beautiful creature suffer.

 

[Rick's Reviews]

So I have been thinking about a clam but have been hesitant especially seeing lots of 1 inch clams on online sites and shipping such a sensitive animal seems like I'm asking for trouble, and then I'm picking up some pods at an LFS and they have like a 3-4 inch super healthy looking T. Maxima, they said they've had him awhile, but they hardly order them because they just don't sell often. I have a 20 gal Q tank with an AI prime 26 over it that is cycled right now, and I have a perfect spot in the DT for the clam to anchor in basically a natural ravine between two rocks (the DT is 60 cube with a Radion Gen 5 XR15 Blue at 82% output - PAR probably 125-150 where the clam would sit, if you believe the BRSTV testing), I have only one Acro up near the surface and he is growing really well now, as is a digi monti and a bunch of LPS/brains. I run GFO/carbon and vodka dose in the sump and trickle all for reef. My normal readings are <1 Nitrate, .01-.04 PO4, 7-7.5 dkh, 410-430 Ca++, 1250-1300 Mg, Temp 78, salinity 1.025, pH 8.1.
I was thinking I might need to up the kH and Calcium but what are your thoughts? Its an expensive clam, but I feel like I would have a much better chance with a 3-4 inch super healthy specimen I can drive home in 10 minutes with, versus a 1 inch clam shipped overnight (and who knows where it shipped before that!). If you do believe clams are better off left in the ocean, or for those with Halides still running I appreciate the honesty, I don't want to waste a bunch of money to watch a beautiful creature suffer.

Following

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

The par would be far too low to keep it alive. Personally I would suggest 350+ minimum par for a crocea clam.

 

[enricocoron]

So I read this thread and a few others

Radion XR15W Pro and Clams

Hello all This is my first venture into the world of LED lighting. I have always used Halides and T5's. I was wondering if the XR15W Pro, being full spectrum, will really provide everything to sustain a reef IM 40, with Clams. Not sure what Clams yet, but I wanted to get some feedback. Most of th...

www.nano-reef.com

Where specifically people are using LEDs only at the 150 PAR range and have long term success with clams. Are their other factors like spectrum and target feeding that make keeping clams not just a "Par Wars" game?

I would also have the option to let it attach to a rock in the Q tank, and then glue that rock to my aquascape so it was higher up closer to the Acro colony and then it's probably getting 200-250 range.

 

[enricocoron]

I guess my other main question is if I do decide to get one, should I Quarantine it or is that just too much stress, I've read a few people who say you just scrub the shell really good and it should take care of the hitchhikers.

 

[hart24601]

I was a poster on that linked thread, oh the memories!

Fwiw I think that is far too low of PAR for a maxima. Some species like derasa can live with lower light levels, but even then it depends on the individual clam as well as the species. You might find someone who has kept a maxima or crocea at lower par, but that is likely survivor bias and they have an extraordinary individual.

I also wouldn’t count on the clam remaining attached. Many, but not all, of my maxima when past several inches detached and never reattached.

As for QT that’s a tough answer. If have multiple clams yes, if not I generally say no if give the shell a really good scrub but that’s dependent on the level of risk one is ok with.

 

[Kasrift]

I was a poster on that linked thread, oh the memories!

Fwiw I think that is far too low of PAR for a maxima. Some species like derasa can live with lower light levels, but even then it depends on the individual clam as well as the species. You might find someone who has kept a maxima or crocea at lower par, but that is likely survivor bias and they have an extraordinary individual.

I also wouldn’t count on the clam remaining attached. Many, but not all, of my maxima when past several inches detached and never reattached.

As for QT that’s a tough answer. If have multiple clams yes, if not I generally say no if give the shell a really good scrub but that’s dependent on the level of risk one is ok with.

This is correct, people see par for derasa and think they can get any clam. I have a crocea that is doing fine, but it’s in 275 par and I dose tons of phyto daily. I run higher par, but flow is too heavy for the acros much higher, so it’s at 275 par(my sandbed is 150).

 

[exnisstech]

It will starve at those low par levels. No scientific data to back up my statement just dead clam shells from clams I starved to death with too little light.

 

[LPS Bum]

So I have been thinking about a clam but have been hesitant especially seeing lots of 1 inch clams on online sites and shipping such a sensitive animal seems like I'm asking for trouble, and then I'm picking up some pods at an LFS and they have like a 3-4 inch super healthy looking T. Maxima, they said they've had him awhile, but they hardly order them because they just don't sell often. I have a 20 gal Q tank with an AI prime 26 over it that is cycled right now, and I have a perfect spot in the DT for the clam to anchor in basically a natural ravine between two rocks (the DT is 60 cube with a Radion Gen 5 XR15 Blue at 82% output - PAR probably 125-150 where the clam would sit, if you believe the BRSTV testing), I have only one Acro up near the surface and he is growing really well now, as is a digi monti and a bunch of LPS/brains. I run GFO/carbon and vodka dose in the sump and trickle all for reef. My normal readings are <1 Nitrate, .01-.04 PO4, 7-7.5 dkh, 410-430 Ca++, 1250-1300 Mg, Temp 78, salinity 1.025, pH 8.1.
I was thinking I might need to up the kH and Calcium but what are your thoughts? Its an expensive clam, but I feel like I would have a much better chance with a 3-4 inch super healthy specimen I can drive home in 10 minutes with, versus a 1 inch clam shipped overnight (and who knows where it shipped before that!). If you do believe clams are better off left in the ocean, or for those with Halides still running I appreciate the honesty, I don't want to waste a bunch of money to watch a beautiful creature suffer.

I can only give you my experiences. First, I think you’re spot on that a larger clam from your LFS has a better chance of survival than a 1 inch baby that is shipped to your door.

Second, while Maximas appreciate light, they don’t need nearly as much PAR as most people think they do. I’ve had a Maxima for a couple of years in 175 PAR and it does great. Always extended and plenty of new shell growth. IME they definitely appreciate some intensity, and good spectrum, but the people who claim they require 300+ PAR are just wrong about that. Actually Fragbox put out a video a few years ago saying that same thing, and I’ve found them to be correct. I also feed the system phyto and zooplankton once each per week, and I think that helps.

I’ll say that in the beginning I had to give mine a couple of 30 min freshwater baths, but that righted the ship. No problems since.

 

[dansyr]

I would also have the option to let it attach to a rock in the Q tank, and then glue that rock to my aquascape so it was higher up closer to the Acro colony and then it's probably getting 200-250 range.

This is the better option I think. FWIW I agree with the majority of people on this thread about more light, and if you have higher light at parts of your rockspace, seems a no-brainer to me. But nothing new to add there.

I kind of don't like the clam hammock aesthetic (besides not having any around when I got my maxima) so I just dremeled out to expand a natural depression in a small bit of live rock and the clam and i both seem to be liking that.

 

[enricocoron]

I guess one thing I didn't consider is that my rocks are not epoxied together, although they do rest on the bottom. This has never been an issue with fish and coral, but if the clam doesn't attach I'm guessing a 4 inch clam could topple a rock over?

 

[enricocoron]

I think I've been talked off the ledge. I think I'm going to let this particular spell of collectoritis pass and let good judgement steer me in the direction of a Derasa clam, which from reading about, like to be in the sand and require lower levels of light and are a bit less finicky.

 

[enricocoron]

Just ordered a Derasa, thanks everyone for the feedback. Since this clam will be shipped, should I avoid drip acclimation due to ammonia buildup in the bag? Supplier says to drip, most online say its a mistake since exposure to air causes ammonia to increase rapidly.

I also ordered a feather duster and Lobo brain, I'm thinking to quarantine them two.

 

[enricocoron]

Well this order was a complete disaster. Feather duster was DOA, Derasa clam came in at maybe an inch and almost no mantle to speak of, it was responsive to light for about 24-36 hours then today it just stayed open with the mantle withdrawn, think its dead. I did measure the Ammonia at maybe .10-.15, but I'm wondering if thats just from the dead clam as I had a solid biofilter going in my Q tank. I think the real mistake was I should have just bought the kick butt huge and healthy maxima clam instead of shipping a tiny baby clam with no mantle and expecting it to thrive. Only positive out of it is the Lobo looks to be an excellent specimen bigger than I expected. Nitrites were zero and Nitrates were close to zero. Total bummer.

 

[enricocoron]

How can you be sure a clam is dead, I don't want to pollute the water and kill the lobo and all the snails I put in there as well. If I pick it up it stays open

 

[Kathy Floyd]

How can you be sure a clam is dead, I don't want to pollute the water and kill the lobo and all the snails I put in there as well. If I pick it up it stays open

"it just stayed open with the mantle withdrawn, think its dead"

It probably is and I'm sorry this didn't turn out so good.

 

[Kasrift]

How can you be sure a clam is dead, I don't want to pollute the water and kill the lobo and all the snails I put in there as well. If I pick it up it stays open

Pictures?

 

[enricocoron]

Lights went out, I can take a picture in the morning, but I'm highly suspect if I pick it up and it doesn't react at all its either dead or will be very shortly