T-Slot 80-20 stand build

ScottW

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Ordering a 96x24x24 aquarium and want to use T-slot 80/20

going to build it as follows
96” x 4
24” x 10
36” tall x 10

all plumbing is in basement fish room below. Already built and running 96x30x11, sump, etc.


1. Is the size of 8020 above correct diameter or no?
2. What part numbers are the best to connect it together?

I’m thinking 96” with 5 cross members at 24” on top and bottom frame, and 36” x 5 on front and back including corner posts.

will this be strong enough for an acrylic tank? Will it be too tall and potentially topple forward? If so I can go a little shorter as well as fasten to the wall into the studs.
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wrasse man

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Personally I wouldn’t use 20 series. I would go for nothing less than 45 series, but would probably go with 90 series. It’s not the strength of the profile from downward pressure I would worry about but the torsion or twisting. At 36” tall I would want to crossbar all the corners. So the additional profile and all the fasteners adds up real fast. Go with a large profile and you will need less of it and you will save on the brackets, connectors and fasteners.

I went through the same same thing you are, I tried to save money by piecemealing parts from different sites, but in the end I just ordered what I wanted from 8020. You can also check out framing tech.

 
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Personally I wouldn’t use 20 series. I would go for nothing less than 45 series, but would probably go with 90 series. It’s not the strength of the profile from downward pressure I would worry about but the torsion or twisting. At 36” tall I would want to crossbar all the corners. So the additional profile and all the fasteners adds up real fast. Go with a large profile and you will need less of it and you will save on the brackets, connectors and fasteners.

I went through the same same thing you are, I tried to save money by piecemealing parts from different sites, but in the end I just ordered what I wanted from 8020. You can also check out framing tech.



I found that framingtech, and sent them a request, they have a 96x36x36 prebuilt unit. I noticed exactly what you just said, they use 90 series and 45 series, so I will use nothing less. I don't mind spending $1500 on the stand, I don't want it to twist and end up having a tank on my new floor lol. Thank you for the insight!


How did you attach each piece to each other? Do you have any photos of your stand?
 

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doesn't framingtech offer some sort of load-bearing software analysis? if you're a serious buyer, i've heard they offer a bespoke service to help you design and engineer the load to your specifications. as ScottW said, probably safer to go with larger profile in the 'heavy' version so you have some peace of mind.
 

wrasse man

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I found that framingtech, and sent them a request, they have a 96x36x36 prebuilt unit. I noticed exactly what you just said, they use 90 series and 45 series, so I will use nothing less. I don't mind spending $1500 on the stand, I don't want it to twist and end up having a tank on my new floor lol. Thank you for the insight!


How did you attach each piece to each other? Do you have any photos of your stand?
I used corner gusset brackets, I wanted to have ability of future modifications. I believe framing tech uses counterbore for connecting. Which is just as strong and more flush mounting, it won’t limit your ability to modify in the future you will just have to buy the hardware.

It’s pricey but will withstand anything you could do to it, you’ll love it if that’s what you go with.

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jelazar

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Ordering a 96x24x24 aquarium and want to use T-slot 80/20


My tank has a similar footprint. I contacted an 80/20 designer with instructions that it wasn't good enough for the stand to be strong; I wanted it to have near-zero deflection when fully loaded.

Here's the plan they provided. Their design called for 1.5"x1.5" (1515) and 1.5"x3.0" (1530) pieces. Top frame deflection was calculated at less than 0.25mm (not 0.25in) at mid-span when fully loaded. The ten bottom horizontal pieces in my design are also 1.5"x1.5", but they're not weight bearing so they were made of a thinner material (1515L).

My all-up cost including all cuts, fasteners, and freight delivery was $1267. A bare-bones steel stand would have been significantly cheaper. But once I added leveling feet, welded gussets, closed end tubing, powder coating, and delivery, quotes for a steel stand were all over $1000.

Tank%20stand_zpsgxtctenn.png


1577993634870.png




1577993798832.png
 
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ScottW

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My tank has a similar footprint. I contacted an 80/20 designer with instructions that it wasn't good enough for the stand to be strong; I wanted it to have near-zero deflection when fully loaded.

Here's the plan they provided. Their design called for 1.5"x1.5" (1515) and 1.5"x3.0" (1530) pieces. Top frame deflection was calculated at less than 0.25mm (not 0.25in) at mid-span when fully loaded. The ten bottom horizontal pieces in my design are also 1.5"x1.5", but they're not weight bearing so they were made of a thinner material (1515L).

My all-up cost including all cuts, fasteners, and freight delivery was $1267. A bare-bones steel stand would have been significantly cheaper. But once I added leveling feet, welded gussets, closed end tubing, powder coating, and delivery, quotes for a steel stand were all over $1000.

Tank%20stand_zpsgxtctenn.png


1577993634870.png




1577993798832.png


Looks perfect. They didn’t suggest 90 or 45? Instead 15 and 30?
 
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Did you go glass or acrylic? What did you do about doors?
 

jelazar

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Looks perfect. They didn’t suggest 90 or 45? Instead 15 and 30?

The designer recommended the 1515 and 1530 profiles based on the loading and the no-deflection requirement. I told him I wanted it very solid and didn't want to cut corners.

Did you go glass or acrylic? What did you do about doors?

The tank is 0.75" glass. Skinning the frame and adding doors is still on my to-do list. I'll build a wood cabinet and attach the wood to the aluminum using the tabs you see on the design. If you like a more modern look you can get 8020 that has one side flat with no slot, and you can leave that visible. They also make plastic panels that fit into the slot, and hinges too.
 

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My tank has a similar footprint. I contacted an 80/20 designer with instructions that it wasn't good enough for the stand to be strong; I wanted it to have near-zero deflection when fully loaded.

Here's the plan they provided. Their design called for 1.5"x1.5" (1515) and 1.5"x3.0" (1530) pieces. Top frame deflection was calculated at less than 0.25mm (not 0.25in) at mid-span when fully loaded. The ten bottom horizontal pieces in my design are also 1.5"x1.5", but they're not weight bearing so they were made of a thinner material (1515L).

My all-up cost including all cuts, fasteners, and freight delivery was $1267. A bare-bones steel stand would have been significantly cheaper. But once I added leveling feet, welded gussets, closed end tubing, powder coating, and delivery, quotes for a steel stand were all over $1000.

Tank%20stand_zpsgxtctenn.png


1577993634870.png




1577993798832.png
Do you happen to have a part list? Mostly interested in the 45 degrees brackets size and what kind of fasteners did you use
 

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