Tank Resealing Resources?

[stefus_prime]

Is there a "go to" guide for resealing/rebuilding frameless tanks? I have a rather expensive tank with a chip on the corner that I do not trust. I priced out a replacement pane that will be precut but not sure what the best materials and approach would be for rebuilding it. The tank is 78 gallons, with mitered 1/2" glass.

Also, if any experienced DIYer local to New England wants to help out let me know, I can offer some sort of compensation for your time. I reached out to a local custom tank builder but their labor charges made this project unfeasible.

 

[Johnd651]

Is there a "go to" guide for resealing/rebuilding frameless tanks? I have a rather expensive tank with a chip on the corner that I do not trust. I priced out a replacement pane that will be precut but not sure what the best materials and approach would be for rebuilding it. The tank is 78 gallons, with mitered 1/2" glass.

Also, if any experienced DIYer local to New England wants to help out let me know, I can offer some sort of compensation for your time. I reached out to a local custom tank builder but their labor charges made this project unfeasible.

I've done it once before... but the big thing is new and old silicone don't stick to each other as well as all new.

 

[Dom]

Be patient and thorough in removing old silicon. I've also read good things about
this: http://www.dsr5.com/siliconeremoval.htm

But I don't know how safe it is to use on tanks.

Where is this chip that you don't trust? Can you post a picture?

 

[Fish Fan]

I have resealed many tanks, and dabbled in building a couple, if I can help you I will.

But honestly, if it’s that nice of a tank I’d seriously consider letting a professional take the tank apart and rebuild it. Taking a tank apart and basically building a new tank from scratch isn’t as easy as just resealing the inside of a leaking tank. Plus, I know I wouldn’t be happy with my expensive tank if the silicon wasn’t perfect.

If you decide to go the DIY route, my advice for separating the panels is to get a short piece of wire - a “high E” guitar string works great - and wrap each end of the wire around a short piece of dowel or broomsticks to make handles. Work the wire through the silicon between the panes with a sawing motion.

Once apart, you need to meticulously remove all the old silicon and clean the glass very well with alcohol or acetone before applying new silicon. Some well placed blue painter’s tape on each side of the joint will help you get nice, crisp silicon lines. You can smooth out the silicon with a little tool you can find by the caulk at the hardware store, you can also use your finger, but dip it in water first, makes it go a easier.

There’s lots of videos on how to hike tanks out there. Many could do this just with some masking tape holding the panes of glass together. If it was me, and given the size of your tank, I’d be building some type of wooden fixture(s) that would hold the panes of glass perfectly square.

For silicon, you can purchase aquarium safe stuff, but GE Silicon I (<Roman numeral 1) is totally aquarium safe, 100% silicon. Do not use GE Silicon II as it has mold inhibitors that are not aquarium safe.

That’s all for now off the top of my head, I hope that helps. If I think of more I’ll post again.

Good luck!!

 

[stefus_prime]

I've done it once before... but the big thing is new and old silicone don't stick to each other as well as all new.

I unfortunately learned this so planning on stripping everything down and rebuilding it from scratch. I'm pretty DIY inclined and fundamentally gluing glass together isn't rocket science, but I'm sure there's some tricky aspects to it. I'm under no illusion that my seams will be as pretty as the manufacturers though.

 

[stefus_prime]

I have resealed many tanks, and dabbled in building a couple, if I can help you I will.

But honestly, if it’s that nice of a tank I’d seriously consider letting a professional take the tank apart and rebuild it. Taking a tank apart and basically building a new tank from scratch isn’t as easy as just resealing the inside of a leaking tank. Plus, I know I wouldn’t be happy with my expensive tank if the silicon wasn’t perfect.

If you decide to go the DIY route, my advice for separating the panels is to get a short piece of wire - a “high E” guitar string works great - and wrap each end of the wire around a short piece of dowel or broomsticks to make handles. Work the wire through the silicon between the panes with a sawing motion.

Once apart, you need to meticulously remove all the old silicon and clean the glass very well with alcohol or acetone before applying new silicon. Some well placed blue painter’s tape on each side of the joint will help you get nice, crisp silicon lines. You can smooth out the silicon with a little tool you can find by the caulk at the hardware store, you can also use your finger, but dip it in water first, makes it go a easier.

There’s lots of videos on how to hike tanks out there. Many could do this just with some masking tape holding the panes of glass together. If it was me, and given the size of your tank, I’d be building some type of wooden fixture(s) that would hold the panes of glass perfectly square.

For silicon, you can purchase aquarium safe stuff, but GE Silicon I (<Roman numeral 1) is totally aquarium safe, 100% silicon. Do not use GE Silicon II as it has mold inhibitors that are not aquarium safe.

That’s all for now off the top of my head, I hope that helps. If I think of more I’ll post again.

Good luck!!

Very helpful! Unfortunately the pros quoted me 80% of the value of the tank to rebuild it and I cant really afford that at this time. I'm not expecting to get the seams perfect aesthetically, mainly nervous about making sure it's structurally sound.

 

[Fish Fan]

I unfortunately learned this so planning on stripping everything down and rebuilding it from scratch. I'm pretty DIY inclined and fundamentally gluing glass together isn't rocket science, but I'm sure there's some tricky aspects to it. I'm under no illusion that my seams will be as pretty as the manufacturers though.

It’s not rocket science, but it’s a skill. I still suggest you let a professional do this.

The blue painter’s tape will help keep your seems looking pretty good, just take your time with the tape.

 

[stefus_prime]

Be patient and thorough in removing old silicon. I've also read good things about
this: http://www.dsr5.com/siliconeremoval.htm

But I don't know how safe it is to use on tanks.

Where is this chip that you don't trust? Can you post a picture?

This is after I sloppily applied some silicone to it before realizing that old silicone doesn't stick to new silicone. The chip goes about halfway into the miter joint. I was also considering an acrylic brace as this side won't be visible but I suspect that may not help. Do you think adding silicone inside would reinforce it? The manufacturers seems are clean and are only in between the panes.

 

[stefus_prime]

It’s not rocket science, but it’s a skill. I still suggest you let a professional do this.

The blue painter’s tape will help keep your seems looking pretty good, just take your time with the tape.

Oh yeah my rocket science comment wasn't in any way meant to be disparaging of tank builders, I'm in total agreement with you on it being a skill. I don't have any issue with the price being charged to do it aside from not being able to afford it.

 

[Fish Fan]

I wouldn’t try the acrylic brace idea, acrylic doesn’t really adhere to silicon.

Oh yeah my rocket science comment wasn't in any way meant to be disparaging of tank builders, I'm in total agreement with you on it being a skill. I don't have any issue with the price being charged to do it aside from not being able to afford it.

I didn’t take it negatively at all! I just want you to know why you’re signing up for ;-)

 

[JonoH]

Dont see too many tanks with mitred Glass these days!

I would use Wacker 121 Silicone, can get in clear or black.

Wacker 121 Aquarium Professional Silicone Sealant

New Life Keys is one of the Best Aquarium Shop across Australia. Supplies Top Quality Aquarium Tanks and Accessories for Sale. Shop Instore or Online.

newlifekeys.com.au

 

[stefus_prime]

Dont see too many tanks with mitred Glass these days!

I would use Wacker 121 Silicone, can get in clear or black.

Wacker 121 Aquarium Professional Silicone Sealant

New Life Keys is one of the Best Aquarium Shop across Australia. Supplies Top Quality Aquarium Tanks and Accessories for Sale. Shop Instore or Online.

newlifekeys.com.au

Honestly my first time seeing in the 20 or so years I've kept fish. The glass shop thought I was confused when I requested lol. Thanks for the reccomendation! How many tubes do you think I'll need for a 48x20x20?

 

[IceNein]

Following along, please keep us up to date with how it turns out. Best of luck.

 

[Red_Beard]

Good advice from Fish Fan.
I would suggest a silicon adhesive vs sealer where those are only glued up in the miter without an internal bead seal though. Something like scs1200(i used, stupid strong, like good luck taking it apart later if you need to. Loved it, good stuff) or rtv 108 or rtv 103. Those options are rated with tensile strength at like 400psi. Only downside is the tooling time is shorter so you cant dawdle, but then again you dont have to wait as long for full cure.

Edit: yes, all 3 options are reef safe.

 

[stefus_prime]

Following along, please keep us up to date with how it turns out. Best of luck.

Will do! Assuming I don't find a more seasoned local all I can promise you is that this will be at least mildly entertaining.

 

[JonoH]

Honestly my first time seeing in the 20 or so years I've kept fish. The glass shop thought I was confused when I requested lol. Thanks for the reccomendation! How many tubes do you think I'll need for a 48x20x20?

At a guess...4-5 tubes, but buy more than you think you will use - last thing you want is to end up short at a critical point.

That would be resealing the entire tank - if its just one end then it shouldnt really be more than a tube, maybe 2.

The guys that do this professionally use electric/cordless caulking guns to get a good consistent flow.

 

[Dom]

This is after I sloppily applied some silicone to it before realizing that old silicone doesn't stick to new silicone. The chip goes about halfway into the miter joint. I was also considering an acrylic brace as this side won't be visible but I suspect that may not help. Do you think adding silicone inside would reinforce it? The manufacturers seems are clean and are only in between the panes.

Mitered corners on a fish tank? I've never seen that.

While the chip is ugly, I don't know that replacing the glass is necessary.

 

[stefus_prime]

Mitered corners on a fish tank? I've never seen that.

While the chip is ugly, I don't know that replacing the glass is necessary.

Me neither haha. I don't mind ugly, but a little concerned since it's goes in about halfway or 1/4". Wouldn't it create a weak point for water to leak through since it's only gripping to about half of the pane in that spot?

 

[Dom]

Me neither haha. I don't mind ugly, but a little concerned since it's goes in about halfway or 1/4". Wouldn't it create a weak point for water to leak through since it's only gripping to about half of the pane in that spot?

It is difficult to tell. But generally speaking, when it comes to chipped glass, for me, the higher up on the tank, the less concern I have.

Chips down at the bottom are subjected to more water pressure.

 

[stefus_prime]

It is difficult to tell. But generally speaking, when it comes to chipped glass, for me, the higher up on the tank, the less concern I have.

Chips down at the bottom are subjected to more water pressure.

That chip is pretty close to the bottom unfortunately.