Discussion in 'Reef Aquarium Discussion' started by randyBRS, Dec 1, 2017.
This would need huge amounts of food particles in the water 24/7.
@Ryanbrs has the brs team ever tested the red sea dosing method for lower maintenance? After following your video series’ for quite some time now i am trying to go as hands off as possible. Looking to switch to the complete line by red sea (coral pro salt, and additives).
I am already running an h80 on my fuge, bubble magus skimmer, and have been able to cut water changes to monthly.
What are everyones thoughts on the red sea version of the triton method?
I used to run it, worked pretty good. Switched over to the ATI Essentials in the new tank with Acropower for AA's, IMO it's simple and the colors and PE are far better. I'm at 2 months no WC and see no reason to as of yet.
How about no water changes, no skimmer? Use nano bubble scrubbing, rollermat, carbon and large algae turf scrubber?
I do not have, nor never will have sps or nps. I find it to be too much for me. Would the red sea like work fine for softies, nems, and very few lps?
Building a oversize sumps system
so what is ULM for me... well i only have 2 yrs under my belt in the hobby. started with 40 gallon breeder and outgrew that quick due to stock choices i have made , however my new reefer 350 has a goal to be ULM tank. what does that mean ? I am person that dont aim to high at start so to me that means that i can go on vacation for 2 weeks at the time and not come home to a disaster rather come home to a couple hours of required maintenance and everything back to normal... so yeah 2 weeks at time with hands off is good ULM start for me
I've been in this hobby/addiction since 2002 and have tried a lot of different methods of keeping my tanks happy. I'm on board with the ULM idea for my mixed reef and have been doing it for the past couple months. So here is my strategy and hopefully I am not missing something. Filtration is done via Lifereef skimmer and large fuge. No water changes but alk/Ca are dosed via two-part and Red Sea trace elements are added weekly. I'm letting my alk be my guide since Ca should be dosed at the same amount in a two-part system and Red Sea's trace element is based on Ca consumption. I'm under 5 minutes a week for maintenance. I'm still checking all my parameters regularly and all is good so far...
I basically had the same thoughts but was reluctant to post about it because I was waiting to see the equipment choice that would be made. At first glance, I'd tend to agree with the above.
+1 (hence my post from the 3rd vid concerning a tiered sump)
It absolutely would, that's why I would love to see how that DIY mini fridge / doser would actually perform.
Herbie or bean animal for the flow down to the sump. I really like the Synergy Reef 16" Shadow overflow with color PVC pipe. Although the color pipe is not really ULM or is it? When away from the home it will be easier to identify with someone to follow the color pipe then all pipe the same color. Clear flexible pipe is not an option as I had one in my 35g and within two weeks algae was already growing in it.
I would like to see two DC pumps as the DC pumps runs cooler and will keep the tank temp down in the summer time. But since DC pumps are currently not small enough then two small AC pumps will do. Plumb both pumps to be able to work, but only one at a time. Setup the Apex to monitor the power socket for usage, if it drops off by a determined number then shut it off and turn the other pump on. Then when you return you can identify the issue of the pump. Maybe it will need a cleaning or a snail got into it, either way you may have just saved it. I would also add two Float switches in the return sump. One for an alarm for water to high and the other for to low.
I live in the north and we must have heaters. In this case I would use two heaters. One set for 76 and the other for 74. Connect both to an Apex and set them up for the first one to be used and if the temp goes over 77 shut it off. If the first one fails then you can use the second one until you either get home or get a replacement. I would buy the slim cobalt line here as they seem to have the least temperature swings compared to other models.
Just my thoughts.
Merry Christmas everyone.
While canister filter do a good job of collecting particulate mater, they tend to produce a lot of nitrate and phosphate and there for algae when used on reef tanks. While they trap partials, it is still in the system until you clean the filter. Most canister filter users do not clean them until the flow becomes reduced, which is way too long. If you clean them every 3-4 days this is not a problem, but defiantly not ULM.
Maybe an external skimmer would be a better choice for that kind of application than a canister filter?
I can't help but wonder. Which heater does everyone feel is the most reliable?
Ryan, I am playing with the rain bird temp-controller with dual outputs, that might make sense for a tank with no automation, but I think you have something planned for the SPS that will require dosing and automation
I like the jaegers but really dont want to mess with calibration part of it. The rain bird is nice little peice of kit . I’d pair it with a titanium and just let it do its thing.
Won't be much help. We don't use heaters here.
Have used finnex and fluval between my freshwater(fluval 5 years) and marine(finnex 2.5 years). Have an aquatop heater on each set just below the minimum of the main in case breaks in the off position. Temperature controller in case break on. Now that im typing this should replace the 5 year old one lol.
None are very reliable in my experiance. The tempature the come on and shut off can very significantly. The best thing you can do with a heater is control it wit a controller of some sort and not relie on the built in controller. Just doing that will make your tank more stable and the heater last longer.
Eheim jager true temp(300w) work great for me, I am running them on a reefkeeper now though for great stability!
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