TGC Cherry Bomb Bounce

Graffiti Spot

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I would just keep an eye on it, it could be hyperplasia but the frag is so small and the affected area is too that it’s hard to tell right now.
Are you dosing equal parts of two part?

I have had it a few times pop up on certain branches. Once even on a few different acros but it eventually went away or I cut the branch off and it never came back. I have seen a few pics of it in peoples tanks really badly and they arent pretty. Just keep an eye on it because it will probably just go away.

I don’t know about the led partnof the discussion though. I would figure if it was the light then there would be other places affected as well.
 

blstravler

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50 gallon cube with 2 hydra 52 HD’s
359B254B-38D8-4CBC-A500-B4D0EFF03F87.png
Aside from the coral issue - if you have 2 52’s over a 50 cube running that schedule you should really think about checking your par out. I had 3 52’s and ran mine much lower about 10 inches off the water and my par was about 350/375 at the top of my rock.
 

LARedstickreefer

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I just switched to the Reefi leds with significant output in the 400nm range. My Maleficent reacted by going puffy all over. My Montiporas bleached.

I’ve turned them way back and my Montiporas are showing signs of improvement.

Btw-Par measurement depends on the sensor. I use the apogee 120 that isn’t sensitive to blues below 450nm. I had all my blues as max until I checked par, channel by channel, and matched to the sensitivity graph. Near UV leds put out ALOT of par.
 
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Charlie’s Frags

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Aside from the coral issue - if you have 2 52’s over a 50 cube running that schedule you should really think about checking your par out. I had 3 52’s and ran mine much lower about 10 inches off the water and my par was about 350/375 at the top of my rock.
I know my par.
 

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I just switched to the Reefi leds with significant output in the 400nm range. My Maleficent reacted by going puffy all over. My Montiporas bleached.

I’ve turned them way back and my Montiporas are showing signs of improvement.

Btw-Par measurement depends on the sensor. I use the apogee 120 that isn’t sensitive to blues below 450nm. I had all my blues as max until I checked par, channel by channel, and matched to the sensitivity graph. Near UV leds put out ALOT of par.
Charlie, all’s recovered?


Sorry Charlie, not to hijack... but...

how are you enjoying those lights? They look promising
 

rockskimmerflow

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Just make sure that it is not spreading inside that one coral... and especially to others.

The light discussion is a nice distraction, but this was happening to acropora before anybody even heard of LEDs.

In extreme cases, this can crash a tank, but I am talking like VERY, VERY extreme... I have never seen this myself, but the PhD had some evidence and experience that it could get bad. I had my one bad branch for 6+ months before I culled it - never an issue.
I agree, I think the lighting discussion is tertiary to the issue here. I imagine it has the potential to be bacterial in nature as you mention. I have had tissue puffiness/blistering occur on a couple acropora myself, but due to tin leaching as well as concurrently elevated magnesium in my case. I corrected those items and the afflicted corals healed up over the next month or two. Haven't had anything like that in past 2 years thankfully.
 

LARedstickreefer

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Charlie, all’s recovered?


Sorry Charlie, not to hijack... but...

how are you enjoying those lights? They look promising

Liked them enough to sell off my two hydra26hds.

The Reefi has a lot more color than the hydras and all of my corals seem to be reacting nicely to them. My torch and hammer expand out 3 times as much as before.

A lot of par, have to be careful with it.
 
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Charlie’s Frags

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Liked them enough to sell off my two hydra26hds.

The Reefi has a lot more color than the hydras and all of my corals seem to be reacting nicely to them. My torch and hammer expand out 3 times as much as before.

A lot of par, have to be careful with it.
Do they work with the hydra hms mounts
 

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