The R2R Budget Reef Tank: What do we need and what do we want?

[Jedi1199]

Reef tank on a budget.. This is an interesting thread @revhtree.

In keeping with the theme of "Best starter setup for a Newbie", here are a few suggestions.

There are places to economize and places to splurge. Going with the least expensive equipment on every single item, in my opinion, is a path to frustration and dissatisfaction.

TANK:
Personally, I feel a minimum 55g tank size for a newbie. Its large enough to avoid the rapid fluxuations that a smaller bio-cube or nano tank can have, yet small enough to set up on a "budget".

Filtration:
This is a place I would not skimp. I feel that the filtration system is the "heart" of the tank. You don't "need" a sump. A good canister filter will do the job. Again, this is not a place to skimp. Get the BEST canister filter available.

I personally use a hybrid canister sump setup. I have an old Rena XP300 and a new Fluval FX6 on my 55g. I also added a "sump" a few weeks ago in the form of a HoB overflow box that I plumbed into a 10g DIY sump that houses my oversized skimmer. The Rena is discontinued so it is off the list as far as this topic goes, but I got the FX6 for $199 on sale.
The 10G tank for $10 with free delivery Sump baffles for $30, tube of silicone and various plumbing parts $25 and return pump for $15

Note: this "sump" is NOT enough to filter a 55g on its own. I am describing my personal tank. The "sump" I have is really just a place to put a really good skimmer.

Skimmer;
Do you "need" a skimmer? Not at all. Ther are plenty of representative tanks here on this forum to attest to that fact.

If you WANT a skimmer, a HoB can do the job. I would suggest going with a unit larger than the minimum rate for your tank size. For example, if you have a 55g tank, I would suggest one with a 75g minimum rating.

I started my 55g build with a Seaclone 100 (rated for tanks "up to 100g") and it did the job I suppose. It skimmed the water and helped keep things in line. That said, it was LOUD!!!!! Invasively loud. In my opinion, after using it for almost 8 months, didn't really do the job as well as its rating would lead you to believe.

So if you want a skimmer, don't mind some noise, then a Seaclone 100 will suffice, but I would recommend a newbie explore better options. Seaclone 100 $110

Flow:

Now here is a place you can save a bit. A few well placed powerheads will provide all the flow you need. No reason to buy top of the line here.

Stand:
So, we have a tank, filter, skimmer, maybe a sump, and decent flow. Do we put this on the floor? Of course not!! We need a stand!!!!

Weather you DIY or buy manufactured, you need a stand for your tank. Cost on this can be from under a hundred bucks to the thousands. Lets play budget friendly and say $100 for stand (DIY, lumber, hardware, finish, ect ect.)

-------------------------------------------

So that covers all of the basics to set up what I consider a "budget" reef tank.

WAIT!! You say I forgot lights??!!

HAHA no my friends, I didn't forget lights at all.

Lighting:
Now, here is a money sink if I have ever seen one!!

"OK R2R, I just got myself a beautiful brand new tank, a new canister filter, a new stand, and a skimmer. How do I provide the right lights for the reef I envision?"

Envision... This is a key word here. The lights you choose depends entirely on that tank you see in your mind. Do you see that beautiful display your LFS has as you first walk through the door? Is THAT what you want in your home? Where are you willing to scale back in order to save budget?

"Budget" in my mind means "Limitations". "I can't have this because..."

Now, there are countless "Black box" lights that many have used and there are many users who say they work just fine. They very well may be just fine, for what that person needs for lights. Some corals, for whatever reason, just do not do well under many black box lights. Some flourish, some die.

I have tried a few black boxes myself. The Wills 135 LEDs did well, but I did not see the growth I anticipated, even from the "weeds" like GSP and Xenia.

I personally believe that lighting, like filtration, the best "budget" buy, is to go top of the line from the start.

I personally run 2 Kessil a360x tuna blue over my 55, supplemented with one Wills 135 marine (I had 2 of these on this tank before and left one because I have a glass panel brace in the center of the tank).

Summary: based on 55g tank.

Tank (non drilled basic big box store $1/g sale price) $55
Canister filter= $199-299 OR
Sump (between 40- 100 ish?) depends on size and complexity.
Skimmer= ? is it "needed?
Flow= $40-60
Stand= $100- ?
Lights ??????

 

[Jedi1199]

Good lord.. I completely forgot a heater.

Another place to economize on a new budget build, 2 smaller heaters are worth more than a single larger one.

2 decent smaller digital heaters = $35 each

 

[ReeferMadness01]

I think with the current market prices the only way to “budget” build is finding used pieces or complete setup of someone getting out of the hobby.

 

[mrsaltwatertank]

I did a whole video series on it:

 

[onlyfans]

You must define ''budget'' in order to get an accurate answer. To me this simply means staying away from automation products like APEX, dosing pumps, app controlled pumps, lights, and wavemakers. To others this may mean buying only bottom dollar items to stay within a certain dollar amount.

Long answer short, if going by my definition, then yes it is possible. If not however, then no, it is not possible to do and also enjoy the hobby because the person will always be changing something to fix.

To complicate things further though, if someone was doing a FOWLR tank and no coral. Then yes 100% do able for a very low dollar amount.

 

[damsels are not mean]

One way to do a budget tank, indirectly, is to sell frags of your corals. Pick species that are easy to frag and grow quickly and you can make back your money on the coral and maybe offset the cost of the system. Budget in this case doesn't have to mean everything is cheap. If the net cost is in the black I think that's pretty cheap overall!

 

[Ef4life]

Budget tanks cans be done but it’s going to take more work sourcing the stuff you want or need for the best prices. Or searching for deals on good used stuff. And diy is going to go a long way in keeping it cheap.

Also your first tank is always the most expensive, it’s cheaper and easier to set up a second tank as you already have a bunch of the little stuff like cleaning supplies, buckets, test kits, chemicals etc

 

[gregkn73]

Of course. 600lt main, 1000lt total. No skimer.

NUTRIEN REDUCTION: ATS, chaeto, REMOTE DEEP SAND BED, CRYPTIC ZONE, DONOVAN REACTOR.

Bulk supply chemicals for KH, Ca,Mg,K .

DIY led 120watt for main tank, 30watt for ATS&chaeto.

Nothing else, sporadically few ml cheap votka+vinegar in Donovan REACTOR

Running since 2013

 

[bxclent]

So far my "budget" Coralife 29/32 is up to $800 and there's no living creatures in it yet ... it's still cycling, but it's only been up 2 weeks.

 

[dk2nt9]

Voted for Other, because:

• "budget" has different meaning for people at different levels of income
• cheapest tank may be not suitable for what you want to keep there
• salt and RO water cost money, this increases with the tank size
• and, depending on your luck and husbandry skills, you may need "first aid kit", tests and additives, regardless of setup
• mixing setup and measuring salinity I would call necessary, but some relied on pre-made by LFS water until the first slip.

The cheapest should be pico tank, no tech, still water jarrarium like PJ Reef or Jaubert xenia bowl. Preconditions: warm room with stable temperature and if you manage to make it work. No fish there. Includes:

1. Container with lid to hold water (thrift or new and availability make this cost $5-25, while you can get nano tank for the upper level of this)
2. Lamp (thrift or new, arm or gooseneck, $7-38),
3. PAR30-38 bulb with a lot of blue (matter of availability, ABI Tuna blue lED 12W in US it could be as low as $25, even less for simpler models directly from China, ~$100 in Canada). Daylight household CFL or Led also will work, but corals will look plain and drab,
4. Salt mix, 50 gal bucket may be enough for an year, see prices in your area or online with shipping
5. RO or bottled distilled water, you will see how much you will need. Cost depends on local availability and if you choose bottled water or RO Buddy filter, that will need replacement cartridges
6. Mixing container, measuring cup, something that moves water (you with a stick or shaking container may be enough at this scale). Floating hydrometer is cheaper, $10 in my area, but refractometer is easier to use, ~$18.
7. Long curved hemostats to access insides, around $20 I guess.
8. Two Little Fishies BettaMag or NanoMag, or DIY with ceramic magnets glass cleaner, ~$15.
9. Rock, preferably live, sand. Pricing again is a matter of local availability. Dry rock can be ordered online, Caribsea RubbleZone is a small amount and inexpensive, ~$15.
10. Superglue gel $1 ea, you will need more than one.
11. Optional food, $10.
12. If things would go wrong, either shut down or add test kits, first aid kit, additives, $200 or so in my area. Economy version: Salifert phosphate and nitrate tests, API alkalinity, ammonia, nitrite, 35% peroxide, if not available and 3% doesn't work, fluconazole for bryopsis, FlatwormExit for lesser flatworms, ChemiClean for cyano, sludge remover of your choice, ESV B-Ionic, Seachem Flourish Nitrogen and Phosphorus (or Brightwell NeoPhos and NeoNitro). Check prices by yourself. The same for 20 gal long tank.

Next in complexity is reef vase or reef bowl, with added flow and heating. Still no fish long term. The same as above plus:

1. Smallest water pump or air pump, air tubing, check valve, 2-way air valve, rigid air tubing, zip ties.
2. Heater
3. Lid, DIY or custom.
4. Fragging tools, corals grow fast with feeding. At least $10 side cutters form hardware store.

Next: standard setup with HOB (nice to have one with surface skimmer and custom media), larger is size, from 3 gal to 20 gal long. Larger tank is a good size for some small fish and plenty of corals beyond small frag size. Consumables and scaping increase with tank volume, but tests and first aid will be the same. You may wish to add:

1. Salifert test for Mg and switch to dry additives, less expensive
2. Better algae scraper (mine is with razor blade)
3. basic siphon for water changes
4. 2-part aquarium safe epoxy putty for rocks and frags
5. Mixing setup will include something for moving water: air pump with airstone or a water pump that will wear from contact with not dissolved yet salt.
6. One more heater to heat mixed water to the tank temperature.

The same as above for 40 gal breeder, with larger HOB(s) and circulation water pumps for moving water, like Koralia Nano. Consumables and scaping increase with increased tank volume. More space for fish.

See what your budget can take, I have seen posts with the only solution "you can't afford this hobby", so be realistic. With testing, 2-3 tanks will need 2-3x more tests, keep your wishes at bay. With my 3 picos/nanos I have to buy 175 buckets of salt, more economical, single shipping cost.

 

[GARRIGA]

I'm in the process of completing a proof of concept on denitrification with a 20G and doing so without a sump or skimmer. Just lots of biological media, slow flow to increase contact time and simple HOB to act as the pump as well as area to house GAC or any other polishing and treatment items. Nitrates under 20 ppm, Phosphates under 0.25 ppm, no water changes, top off with distilled because just at the moment more convenient and PH stays around 7.5-7.6 but that's an aeration issue because my Alkalinity stays above 9 dkh. Calcium is over 500 at the moment because I was forced to use de-chlorinated tap plus wanted to see what would happen. Was all I had since the 70s and it's just housing fish at the moment. Going through a brown phase. First ever. Treated the tank for two weeks with PhosGuard to remove silicates likely introduced via tap water. Had totally forgot that and lesson learned. Seems to be going away so I'm not overly concerned.

Post fish-less cycle I added two large Sailfin Mollies to avoid QT as they were acclimated from full freshwater. Now going to start adding more fish but likely just go with damsels. In my experience they are hardy and less likely to get sick. I'll run a Diatom Filter if ich breaks out. Not adding copper and at the moment don't have the means to QT. That will be another experiment if it presents itself. Old trick I rarely read about others employing. Mimics the TTS without the additional tanks or constantly changing water.

I'm like stress testing my systems so I know what the limits are before adding the final bio-load. Therefore been heavily feeding and overfeeding to approximate having a larger bio-load and it's been working just fine. Ready now for more life including a CUC to handle to additional ugly phases I'm sure to encounter. Once the system has been running a while with full load of fish then corals will be introduced post confirming Alkalinity stays stable and I can raise my PH. Still working on the latter but have ideas. Not my first struggle with that.

Been keeping fish since the early 70s. Was one and still am the type to ask too many questions and research everything just to confirm what I've been told. Not one to accept the norm and always gravitate to my own experiences plus the logic behind the science. This latest iteration just a continuation of my first under-gravel tank where I didn't fully grasp what was happening but understood several components and later applied them to my first Saltwater tank in the 80s. That tank had four inches of gravel on top of the plate with nothing more than air stones driving it and never performed water changes. Nitrates remained under 40 ppm once it was established. Eventually settled under 20 ppm. There were no test that I knew of at the time that went lower. Key was zero water changes and I had a large bio-load. No corals. Just fish although did have a short stint with a Sabea that didn't survive a thawed shrimp from the grocery store. Lesson learned. Never know what we are being fed and that which may not kill us might kill our tank.

Not saying something this simplistic will house sticks but likely support softies and inverts and the only drawback is possibly keeping phosphates low enough but that might change as I get a better understanding of the Redfield Ratio and add better lights.

Ultimate goal post this experiment is designing a custom tank that will be sock-less and skimmer-less. Only mechanical export will be GAC replacement and any filter pads used to polish the tank. I don't have time to be cleaning skimmer cups or dealing with socks or cups. I'd rather spend my time admiring my living art. Which included automating the testing and having a good dosing system. Something that can not be incorporated into my POC due to space constraints. It really doesn't have to be that complicated or expensive. Just needs to be well designed and applied science versus trying to go mad scientist and obtaining every gadget that exists.

 

[IamChrismWard]

Have around $300 in this one. Got everything used on on trade.

 

[Quietman]

Yes...and no.

You can likely set up a very low tech, low light, low volume tank for a small fish or two and some low demand corals for <$500. But to me that's almost an experiment for experienced reefers to try rather than what someone wants getting into the hobby. That's not assuming any used equipment which can be a great entry solution. Having a buddy to give/sell you old stuff and help with advice is probably best way to start and something we should all try to do with newer hobbyists.

Most new folks will have an expectation of say a dozen or so nice corals in a 40 gallon (plus or minus doesn't have to be breeder but think most want to start with something more than 10-15 gallons) and having 4-5 small fish. Looking at just a first draft list here that is going to push minimum up to $1500 - $2000 to just get it wet with a reasonable chance of success.

You can probably cut that down by 25% by going with low quality knock-offs but I wouldn't recommend most equipment of that type (some sure where it makes sense). I'm basing on lower end name brand - non-controllable Tunze/Sicce for example.

I can't recommend anyone getting into hobby without RODI if we assume large nano as entry point. Just doesn't make sense economically nor for any kind of issue mgmt that will inevitably pop-up.

My first tank was/is a RSR170. After a year I was probably $4000 into it (and I'm not buying anything top of line - just the mid-lower end name brand stuff). Been another $1000-$1500 in the 2 years since then and I've kept my equipment change outs pretty low (adding ATS is really only major evolution). I used to keep track then decided this was about love not money. I sleep much better not knowing certain things.

Can you start from scratch and setup a reasonable budget tank and run for it for a year under $1000? I really doubt it.

 

[Falreef]

It’s an absurdly expensive hobby, driven up by price gouging, hype and other sorts of manipulative behaviors. Started about 6 years ago and has gotten out of control and steadily, exponentially worse over past 3 years. It’s absurd.

 

[Quietman]

As a thought exercise it's interesting to think about this question as a contest.

Keeping a minimum of 5 fish and a dozen corals. You can spend as much as you want, select the corals and fish you want and run a tank for one year.

Everyone starts with 5000 points. You subtract from that based on how much is spent dollar per point. Any used/on hand equipment would be figured at lowest price you can find at time of use.

Bonus points awarded for higher difficulty corals, keeping all fish alive for a year, etc.

Reductions taken for failed equipment, tank crashes, losses, etc.

Highest total remaining end of one year wins.

Now what decisions would you make? How would you balance cost with actual value in keeping livestock healthy long term.

 

[Schraufabagel]

I still think a 40 gallon breeder with a Seachem Tidal 75 filter and 2 AI primes is the best option for a budget start. That is if you're looking to stay under $1,000 for everything but livestock.

 

[nicksreefs]

Most definitely possible!!!

My first reef tank which im about to start stocking cost about £1200 running with rock water but no fish or corals (apart from a mushroom hitchhiker )

now my second and third tanks (1 x 160L & 1 x 50L) very different story..

second tank - fluval cube 60l - second hand from gumtree - £40 came with a 205 canister, two channel air pump, 50w fluval heater, stand, pipework and an iffy light.

cleaning - brand new sponge (£0.20) + RO water about £5 worth (i buy it -mostly as an excuse to go to the LFS on the regs

New filter media & sponges - £20 ish (new)
Circulation - Jebao wave maker - £30 (new)
Light - Fluval marine nano - £35 (second hand... gumtree again - got 2 for £70!)
UV - TMC mini UV £30 (new)
Auto feeder - £5 (used facebook marketplace)

So dry and ready to/for Rock cost - £160.20

wet cost:
Water £20
Live Rock - £120 (6kg)
sand (dry) - (left over from first tank... 1-2" call it £10 for a small bag - guestimate)
ATM colony - (new - but forget )

Initial stocking:
Turbos x 2
Hermits x 3
strawberry conch x 2
Clownfish pair
scooter blenny x1
(all from LFS)
(call it £100 ish)

Second stocking (3months in):
BTA x1
Zoa - fake lime chilli / mindtricks / rasta
(all from fellow reefer who's just starting to sell frags - £50 the lot)

Third stocking (no rush - its only 7months old!):
TBC but will probs be a few more zoas maybe a plating monti or two. defo no fishes its only 50L folks!

Schedule -
water change - four times a year
filter clean (canister) - twice a year
Top up to level with RO water - ad hoc (worst case weekly)
UV - 24/7

Feeding -
Twice daily (light pinch) (vitalis marine flake)
weekly - Anemone pellets 1 per anemone (vitalis)
Red Sea AB+ - every other day 1ml
Defrosted mysis - ad hoc
very rarely - crab pellets

So its super low maintenance, set up took approx 6 hours covering; levelling of tank (uneven floor), clean down of tank & all equipment, UV installation, sand & aquascaping, equipment testing & setting, filling with water. Clowns in first night, fully cycled in 3 days, rest of first stocking in on day 6.

Want to see it? check my profile pick. all livestock happy and healthy, no disease, no deaths. The anemone has split twice so now have 3, crabs have shed and changed into larger shells twice (all crabs), Clownfish have grown and are active and happy, blenny is scooting about as always. Zoas have just come off plugs so look a little peeved but had started to grow out happily on plugs so not worried.

all in - £450.2 for a fully stocked sensible sized stable super low maintenance system with fish, bts a couple of zoas. amount of joy received from this tank £priceless. Hours spent enjoying the tank... cant be bothered with the math but many!

Third tank
Costs as above but couple of small deviations...

Tank is lagoon style on a stand (again fluval) with heater but no canister or light. 160L - (£20 - Gumtree - they were moving and it was me or the dump for it!)
Canister - Fluval 307 (facebook marketplace - £20)
Light - Fluval nano (the other one from above purchase - £35)
Jebao wavemaker - £80 (new)
UV - TMC - £40 (new)
Auto feeder - £18 (new)

so empty cost - £193

Wet cost:
Water - £50
Rock - Live £150 (mix from LFS & tank breakdown 18kg)
ATM colony - forget!
no sand

First stocking:
picasso clownfish pair - (from tank breakdown)
Hifin checker Hawkfish
mimic filefish
Foxface
Turbos - 6
Hermit - 4
(£140 - tank breakdown so clowns were £20 the pair!)

Second stocking (3 months):
Zoas - mixed
Plating monti - mixed
Superman mushroom
Firework clove
(£80 local reefer & ebay (clove polyp - never again!))

Third stocking TBC:
maybe a sailfin tang but unlikely - still undecided which way to go with coral but we're a fair old way off this decision yet!

Schedule:
water change - four times a year
filter clean (canister) - twice a year
Top up to level with RO water - ad hoc (worst case weekly)
UV - 24/7

Feeding:
Twice daily (light pinch) (vitalis marine flake)
Red Sea AB+ - every other day 3ml
Algae sheet - weekly small piece on clip
Defrosted mysis - ad hoc
very rarely - crab pellets

Note - needs an additional wave maker & either small second light or larger light before final stocking. all corals still on rack but doing fine - mushroom needed to move on the frag rack but otherwise every is happy healthy and showing signs of growth with no issues. All fish are grand but the female clownfish will take your finger off given half a chance Still a new tank so just letting her settle but will need to get a new light quickly as want to sort before placing the frags and finalising the aquascape. maybe also another wave maker but will see

Total cost £613

Bugger - add 1 50W heater & 1 150w heater & 4 basic thermometers to the above costs! not doing the maths again sorry!

so while not cheap ive seen the tank & stands new... dry... not reef ready... for:

50L - £400 ish
160L - £600 ish

so not bad considering costs include pretty much everything including livestock and a starter set of corals..

 

[KingLucy1997]

Tank: ~3g-3.5g acrylic tank bought used for under $10
Live rock: purchased on eBay was about $30 for 10lbs
Lighting: Aquaneat brand LED lights purchased on Amazon for ~$13. Light was too bright sitting on lip of aquarium, so used parts from Home Depot meant to make an electrical box in a building to make the elevated light stand. Parts are held together by some type of flexible metal string that looks like it’s for soldering.
Filters: canister filter was found in pile of free stuff in my apartment complex. Canister contains poly filter sponge and chemi-pure blue nano packets (contains activated carbon and ion exchange resins).
Powerhead: Domica brand model AM-005, 90GPH, 3ft head purchased from Amazon.
Heater: purchased from Walmart
Thermometer: digital, purchased from Amazon
All corals in tank are from the $5 rack at my local fish store

 

[aws2266]

I'm setting a 120g that I call my budget dream build. When I say budget it means I'm looking for savings at every corner instead of just outright buying from a retail store. My tank, stand, lights, sump are all used. I used dry rock instead of live rock and my sand is the cheap stuff. Everything is coming along nicely. You can view the details on my build thread.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/120g-mixed-reef-my-budget-dream-build.876022/

 

[Ippyroy]

This package right here seems like a very budget friendly set up to me.

Matthew's LPS & Softy Tank Bundle

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