The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

saltyhog

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I use a Tupperware type bowl for the sand rather than the ceramic....less likely to damage something if I drop it and won't break.
 

tkiry1

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Cheilinus chlorourus floral wrasse, anybody know anything about these guys and if they stay red?
 

Ocelaris

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I would rather have something reef-like with crevasses. Do you know who carries them? Maybe I could build one out of rubble rock.
You could make it out of anything, but usually with a quarantine tank it's best to use non porous surfaces. Any rocks will absorb copper, so if you run copper, consider that will make testing for copper more complex. Also it's not necessary to anthropomorphize fish, it's already a very unusual environment. Many people have had success with inert, ugly containers for a short period.
 

powers2001

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You could make it out of anything, but usually with a quarantine tank it's best to use non porous surfaces. Any rocks will absorb copper, so if you run copper, consider that will make testing for copper more complex. Also it's not necessary to anthropomorphize fish, it's already a very unusual environment. Many people have had success with inert, ugly containers for a short period.
Container for the QT and reef-like for the display.

But... there is already a 3/4"-1" layer of fine sand on top of a wall-to-wall sheet of egg-crate in the display. I could siphon out a smidgeon of sand to expose the egg-crate during a water change. That way the wrasse will see the plastic grid and go for the sand pile instead. Thoughts?
 

Ocelaris

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Ah. I think they will figure it out , but I imagine they're used to sometimes hitting hard surfaces when digging and will just find the right spot.

What about a reptile water dish? At least for a starter, you could glue rocks to it, or sand.

fc32edc7a88803f160af5e60d297725e.jpg
 

SIJoe

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Id like to know the true size of a few wrasses. Not that i can fit them in my 30g but im curious. You see so many different max sizes from online vendors. Lets here it from the true owners of these fish. So whats the real max size of:
Rhomboid wrasse
Pintail wrasse
Crescent tail wrasse
 
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Ocelaris

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Just picked up a Katherine wrasse for $65! Trapped and put my solar wrasse in the sump until I can find it a new home.
02fd1f6f44753c4b85f814d2077c4f4f.jpg
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Did you get that from Azure aquatics? I saw one last week, but someone picked it up today before I could get back. It's a beautiful fish!
 

eatbreakfast

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Cheilinus chlorourus floral wrasse, anybody know anything about these guys and if they stay red?
This species gets to close to a foot unlengtg. It is peacedyl to tankmates that it can't eat, but will hunt small fiah ans inveets. Individuals can xhange their colors quickly based on environment.
Id like to know the true size of a few wrasses. Not that i can fit them in my 30g but im curious. You see so many different max sizes from online vendors. Lets here it from the true owners of these fish. So whats the real max size of:
Rhomboid wrasse
Pintail wrasse
Crescent tail wrasse
4.5" for the rhomboid, 5" fo the pintail and crescent tail.
 

SIJoe

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This species gets to close to a foot unlengtg. It is peacedyl to tankmates that it can't eat, but will hunt small fiah ans inveets. Individuals can xhange their colors quickly based on environment.

4.5" for the rhomboid, 5" fo the pintail and crescent tail.
are there any fairy wrasse that stay small? Around 3"-3.5"?. seems to me they all get to around 5-6"
 

Jstn

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What are your P04 and are you using gfo or another phosphate remover in addition to carbon dosing? NO3 and PO4 are used by bacteria in tandem. Zeroing out 1 stops the process for the other. If not using any additional phosphate remover, then add some additional nitrate absorbing media in the sump, such as pond matrix.

Also, more frequent water changes will help. Though, if it weren't for the sps, your NO3 levels don't concern me.

Regardless of chemistry, I would suggest removing these fish.

.

My PO4 is around 0.05 running GFO and chaeto, its hard to figure out why my nutrients stay high and the only conclusion I can come to is my bio load is too high. My pintails have both been males for 2 years and show no aggression at all, other than the small pintail chasing my flame everyone in a while. Same for my rhomboids, they are best best; but it would make sense to pare down these pairs. I really hate to get rid of fish as I value them all but my nutrients has me concerned.
 

Silver14SS

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Awesome thread, I was convinced I wanted a pair or trio of one species until I read a few pages.

I have a Reefer 250 (36x20x21), how many different wrasse would be appropriate? Suggestions on species?

Tank has a pair of clowns, bangai cardinal fish, firefish, and a couple small gobies already.

Thanks!
 

mfinn

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I got a Macropharyngodon ornatus a week ago and put it in my quarantine tank.
It hasn't been a real aggressive eater until yesterday. (Even though it was suppose to be preconditioned.)
It's still on someone else's time zone. Doesn't get up until 2:30 in the afternoon. I have the timer set to turn them off at 8pm, but the light from the window comes in so total darkness doesn't happen until 9-9:30
So I decided to do a preventative prazipro treatment this afternoon about 4. It had eaten some tigger pods ( the last of them) and a small drop of ROE.
I dosed the tank for actual gallons.
About a half hour later I looked in the tank and he was in the sand box already.
Almost makes me want to do a quick water change tonight.
I've treated other leopards and none reacted to prazipro.
 

eatbreakfast

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Prazipro works in about an hour, so a wc should be fine.

Prazi can affect appetite, so having the fish eat vigorously for a few days before dosing can be a good idea.
 

ngoodermuth

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Prazipro works in about an hour, so a wc should be fine.

Prazi can affect appetite, so having the fish eat vigorously for a few days before dosing can be a good idea.

+1

Also, fwiw my leopard goes to bed around 4-5pm every day. It does take them some time to adjust to our light schedules, and it's not unusual for a new leopard to dive during the day or at odd times, or even hide completely for several days at a time.
 

mfinn

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+1

Also, fwiw my leopard goes to bed around 4-5pm every day. It does take them some time to adjust to our light schedules, and it's not unusual for a new leopard to dive during the day or at odd times, or even hide completely for several days at a time.
Yeah, last couple wrasses I got it took quite a while to get them use to this time zone.
I was just a little concerned this wrasse hit the sand bed less than a hour after the tank was medicated.
None of the others seemed hardly to notice.
 

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