The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

iLMaRiO

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Your four are great - if you add a second Cirrhilabrus make sure it’s in a seperate complex to the current one and maybe on the other side of the chart (I haven’t seen a difference in behaviour between Cirrhilabrus that are close to eachother on the chart compared to further away complex species though).

even a bipartitus would fit properly ?
 

i cant think

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even a bipartitus would fit properly ?
Yeah, they do fit just fine as I find they usually ignore the other wrasses and stay towards the bottom (Unless it’s other Macropharyngodon species such as a bipartitus and a Kuiteri).
 

iLMaRiO

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Yeah, they do fit just fine as I find they usually ignore the other wrasses and stay towards the bottom (Unless it’s other Macropharyngodon species such as a bipartitus and a Kuiteri).
well, i've planned for 3 Macropharyngodon in total. no kuiteri
 

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well, i've planned for 3 Macropharyngodon in total. no kuiteri
Should be alright as long as they’re different species (Although Macropharyngodon and anampses have a lower tendency to transition in captivity if left alone for some reason).
 

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Everyone’s out after a sandbed change on Sunday! The photos are extremely bad as I can’t be bothered to clean the glass… again.
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iLMaRiO

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in other thread i've read that sometimes you have to deworm wrasses

1. how can i see if my wrasses have worms?
2. how to deworm ?
 

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in other thread i've read that sometimes you have to deworm wrasses

1. how can i see if my wrasses have worms?
2. how to deworm ?
In my experience, with wrasses you mainly need to deworm Macropharyngodon, Anampses and Pseudojuloides species.the others seem to be fairly resistant to worms.

It’s been a couple of years since I’ve faced worms however I think I remember it has something to do with the poo. If it’s white then I think that means worms but I could be wrong.
As for how to deworm you need to have a QT tank that you can put a treatment into but I can’t remember what treatment I used working at an LFS.
 

homer1475

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White stringy poop is a good indication of internal worms, but if you feed a lot of PE mysis, they could also have white stringy poops.

Prazipro is a great dewormer and pretty safe to use.
 

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It needs huge water changes. I hate water changes (that's why i'm using triton) and currently i'm unable to make WC bigger than 10-12%
 

iLMaRiO

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Thats why you treat in a small hospital tank where large WC's aren't an issue.

Prazipro does not require any WC's, before or after treatment.
well, not exactly, both Hikari and Sera say to make a WC as big as possible (Sera: min 80%)

probably , the easier way is to put the fish in a small tank, use the product there, then take the fish out and waste the water.
 

homer1475

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Exact product I've used numerous times. No where on the directions of the bottle or the websites directions do they recommend WC's before, during, or after treatment.

Not sure where you are getting WC's are required to use? In fact prazi is actually reef safe and can be used in the display.
 

iLMaRiO

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Never done it myself, but I do use a hospital tank which starts with fresh water.
yes, the hospital tank is the faster solution. (except the fact that I need lights, filtration and everything else, If I have to quarantine the fish 1 week minimum)
 

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yes, the hospital tank is the faster solution. (except the fact that I need lights, filtration and everything else, If I have to quarantine the fish 1 week minimum)
You don’t actually need lighting for a hospital tank. As long as the tank gets some amount of sunlight (Indirect or direct) you should be alright as no coral will go into the tank. Filtration for one fish shouldnt be an absolute necessity however it’s recommended if it’s a high bioload fish in a small tank (I’ve found leopard wrasses to not be a heavy bioload). Just for an idea, my leopard is in a 20g tank temporarily with another wrasse and the billiard from those two alone isn’t bad.
 

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