The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

KassScott · Jan 18, 2023

Crabby48 said:
Diamondtail been impossible to get. I been begging everyone. It’s a waiting game now

Of course. Lol. Eyeroll. My luck

Crabby48 · Jan 18, 2023

Eagle_Steve said:
I will not make joke on that either.

But leave this here instead.

WOW!!! It’s so Huge. Is it friendly can I let it

Crabby48 · Jan 18, 2023

KassScott said:
Of course. Lol. Eyeroll. My luck

Ha get in line. We all get cheated

KassScott · Jan 18, 2023

Checked out LFS I haven’t been to yet. Their DT had a gorgeous leopard and a mystery skulking around the back. Haha. Had really great prices on some of their fish and did say like with their leopards they makes sure they are eating well before selling which at least is something. Haha. Can custom order if their supplier has the specific fish available. So who knows…. I’m still pretty sold on the qt-ing process with Dr. Reef. Etc.

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

i cant think · Jan 19, 2023

KassScott said:
Checked out LFS I haven’t been to yet. Their DT had a gorgeous leopard and a mystery skulking around the back. Haha. Had really great prices on some of their fish and did say like with their leopards they makes sure they are eating well before selling which at least is something. Haha. Can custom order if their supplier has the specific fish available. So who knows…. I’m still pretty sold on the qt-ing process with Dr. Reef. Etc.

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

I know not everyone runs like this and it seems quality of fish in the UK is better than the quality of fish in the Americas.
However, I’ve always ran a reef tank without any QT for my personal reefs. The reason for this is generally QT can fail if you’re not getting QTed corals or not Qting your sand and rocks. Diseases will lay dormant in everything we get that’s living.
I’ve also never had to deal with a fish disease in my personal reefs during my time in this hobby (just coming up to 11-12 years). However it may be because of the better quality of fish we get.

KassScott said:
So I found a list I made and this is the one I think I actually sat down with the chart but I thought I’d transferred it to my phone lists but this is a whole different list. Lol. Picture to include how my brain works. Lol. Thoughts on this list?

Fairy’s - pick 3 of 4?
Dusky brunneus- C. brunneus
Splendid pintail - C. isosceles
Naoko - C. naokoae
Solorensis - which I had Xd out and can’t remember why? Prob someone on here said they were a problem?

M. bipartis x1

Melasmaposum, radiant or biocellatus - love the melamaposum if this should go in last by itself I could justify the higher price.

Flashers x2? - decisions…..

man’s possible one more? Exquisite? Or…. A. Neoguinaicus - China Pearl Black banded. I have seen something negative about the anampses?

Personally, I would swap C. brunneus with C. hygroxerus this isn’t for any aggression reason but more so about the colours.
C. Isosceles is a must for most wrasse gangs, I nearly picked up a hybrid a year or so ago but my gang just wouldn’t take it because of aggression.
C. naokoae… most know my opinion on this fish, I would add it last though just to limit any boisterous behaviour.

C. solorensis will need to be taken off because of aggression, I assume you mean C. aquamarinus (three species used to be called C. aquamarinus but now they’ve been split into 3 different species - C. aquamarinus, C. chalasai, C. solorensis).

I would go for 2 of the 3 Halichoeres, and I would go for Melasmopomus and Iridis. Again, I would love a Melasmopomus but I don’t have the right gang for one yet. The Iridis on the other hand, I do have and it’s one wrasse I would never not have (same with the Naokoae). Their colours are gorgeous.

Flashers… Well, P. attenuatus has to be on the list. It’s a show stopper! I would also add a C. cyaneus or C. rubricaudalis to the list. Or if you don’t mind knocking off one of your non-wrasse fish then I’d grab all 3 personally.

The Macropharyngodon seems good to me too. Mine is calm and is another fish that doesn’t mind ‘playing’ when my hands are in the tank.

More wrasses are certainly possibly - don’t forget you have a large tank. You aren’t limited to just 4/5 wrasses like many of us ‘should’ be in theory. You could have both wrasses you want to add :)

Now, introduction order would be this;

2-3 Paracheilinus in first, these can be sensitive to aggression and you ideally want to get them in first until you get to know your gang’s behaviour. I know the behaviour of my gang and they aren’t too nasty (yet), my iridis has some things to say about new wrasses though.
In the Cirrhilabrus, you’ll want to get the Isosceles in after the paracheilinus species as these are shy to aggression and you’ll want to let them establish to the tank first. Then you’ll want to add the Hygroxerus (or) Brunneus and the Exquisitus either together or at different times but the Exquisitus will want to go in first. These aren’t too bad with aggression but again can be bad with it so you’ll want to get this guy established before the naoko goes in. Now you can add the Naokoae, they are known for being boisterous - I’ve personally never met a nasty naokoae, they’re all pretty much like my Lubbocki’s in which their displaying is vigorous and what not but they don’t charge at wrasses normally.

Then you’ll want to add the sand sleepers. The first to go in is the Iridis, these can be slightly harder to get through the shipping stage so I recommend going for the LFS route with this species unless you’re willing to try more than one - These are worth it when they’re through this stage though. Then you can add the Melasmopomus, these generally aren’t as nasty as the larger species so you shouldn’t have too much trouble adding wrasses after him.

And finally, you’ll want an established tank to get a Neoguinaicus. These can be hard to get feeding so enough microfauna helps a lot :)

KassScott · Jan 19, 2023

i cant think said:
I know not everyone runs like this and it seems quality of fish in the UK is better than the quality of fish in the Americas.
However, I’ve always ran a reef tank without any QT for my personal reefs. The reason for this is generally QT can fail if you’re not getting QTed corals or not Qting your sand and rocks. Diseases will lay dormant in everything we get that’s living.
I’ve also never had to deal with a fish disease in my personal reefs during my time in this hobby (just coming up to 11-12 years). However it may be because of the better quality of fish we get.

Personally, I would swap C. brunneus with C. hygroxerus this isn’t for any aggression reason but more so about the colours.
C. Isosceles is a must for most wrasse gangs, I nearly picked up a hybrid a year or so ago but my gang just wouldn’t take it because of aggression.
C. naokoae… most know my opinion on this fish, I would add it last though just to limit any boisterous behaviour.

C. solorensis will need to be taken off because of aggression, I assume you mean C. aquamarinus (three species used to be called C. aquamarinus but now they’ve been split into 3 different species - C. aquamarinus, C. chalasai, C. solorensis).

I would go for 2 of the 3 Halichoeres, and I would go for Melasmopomus and Iridis. Again, I would love a Melasmopomus but I don’t have the right gang for one yet. The Iridis on the other hand, I do have and it’s one wrasse I would never not have (same with the Naokoae). Their colours are gorgeous.

Flashers… Well, P. attenuatus has to be on the list. It’s a show stopper! I would also add a C. cyaneus or C. rubricaudalis to the list. Or if you don’t mind knocking off one of your non-wrasse fish then I’d grab all 3 personally.

The Macropharyngodon seems good to me too. Mine is calm and is another fish that doesn’t mind ‘playing’ when my hands are in the tank.

More wrasses are certainly possibly - don’t forget you have a large tank. You aren’t limited to just 4/5 wrasses like many of us ‘should’ be in theory. You could have both wrasses you want to add :)

Now, introduction order would be this;

2-3 Paracheilinus in first, these can be sensitive to aggression and you ideally want to get them in first until you get to know your gang’s behaviour. I know the behaviour of my gang and they aren’t too nasty (yet), my iridis has some things to say about new wrasses though.
In the Cirrhilabrus, you’ll want to get the Isosceles in after the paracheilinus species as these are shy to aggression and you’ll want to let them establish to the tank first. Then you’ll want to add the Hygroxerus (or) Brunneus and the Exquisitus either together or at different times but the Exquisitus will want to go in first. These aren’t too bad with aggression but again can be bad with it so you’ll want to get this guy established before the naoko goes in. Now you can add the Naokoae, they are known for being boisterous - I’ve personally never met a nasty naokoae, they’re all pretty much like my Lubbocki’s in which their displaying is vigorous and what not but they don’t charge at wrasses normally.

Then you’ll want to add the sand sleepers. The first to go in is the Iridis, these can be slightly harder to get through the shipping stage so I recommend going for the LFS route with this species unless you’re willing to try more than one - These are worth it when they’re through this stage though. Then you can add the Melasmopomus, these generally aren’t as nasty as the larger species so you shouldn’t have too much trouble adding wrasses after him.

And finally, you’ll want an established tank to get a Neoguinaicus. These can be hard to get feeding so enough microfauna helps a lot :)

Thank you so much!!! This was exactly what I needed. Definitely makes it less stressful about Theo to add when. Thank you!! Thank you!!!

KassScott · Jan 19, 2023

and would the leopard go in at same time as the other sand sleepers?

Petcrazyson · Jan 19, 2023

KassScott said:
and would the leopard go in at same time as the other sand sleepers?

Good idea to keep down aggression, but it wouldn’t hurt to add it after or a little earlier than ‘ALL’ of the others. How many Macropharyngodon’s exactly do you want?

KassScott · Jan 19, 2023

Petcrazyson said:
Good idea to keep down aggression, but it wouldn’t hurt to add it after or a little earlier than ‘ALL’ of the others. How many Macropharyngodon’s exactly do you want?

Just one. But with the other 2 suggested sand sleepers (both Halis) just making sure that’s where he’d fit in. 2 of the suggested flashers just aren’t available here so illl have to fig out alternative for them. And an alternative for the Brunneus. He suggested hygeoxerus but that’s not avail either. In the pic I saw Brunneus looked “prettier” than in other photos when I looked him up further. Lol. So with the exception of a. Few I have a good list started.

i cant think · Jan 19, 2023

KassScott said:
Just one. But with the other 2 suggested sand sleepers (both Halis) just making sure that’s where he’d fit in. 2 of the suggested flashers just aren’t available here so illl have to fig out alternative for them. And an alternative for the Brunneus. He suggested hygeoxerus but that’s not avail either. In the pic I saw Brunneus looked “prettier” than in other photos when I looked him up further. Lol. So with the exception of a. Few I have a good list started.

Brunneus can look stunning but that’s mainly when they’re in display.

Slocke · Jan 19, 2023

KassScott said:
Just one. But with the other 2 suggested sand sleepers (both Halis) just making sure that’s where he’d fit in. 2 of the suggested flashers just aren’t available here so illl have to fig out alternative for them. And an alternative for the Brunneus. He suggested hygeoxerus but that’s not avail either. In the pic I saw Brunneus looked “prettier” than in other photos when I looked him up further. Lol. So with the exception of a. Few I have a good list started.

I'd say the most readily available, pretty, and not too aggressive fairy wrasse are C exquisitus, C lubbocki, and C rubeus.

@i cant think is there a reason why C rubeus isn't talked about as much C naokaoe?

i cant think · Jan 19, 2023

Slocke said:
I'd say the most readily available, pretty, and not too aggressive fairy wrasse are C exquisitus and C rubeus.

@i cant think is there a reason why C rubeus isn't talked about as much C naokaoe?

Generally, naokoae is seen as the nicest of the two, it’s like why we mention Rubeus but not Joanallenae.

Slocke · Jan 19, 2023

i cant think said:
Generally, naokoae is seen as the nicest of the two, it’s like why we mention Rubeus but not Joanallenae.

Darn I was thinking that as my next wrasse. I've also never seen Joan so that may also be why.

Nicest as in less aggressive or prettier?

Tcook · Jan 19, 2023

Wrasses inbound. I won't say anymore to jinx it. Crabby knows. Shhhh;)

KassScott · Jan 19, 2023

Slocke said:
I'd say the most readily available, pretty, and not too aggressive fairy wrasse are C exquisitus, C lubbocki, and C rubeus.

@i cant think is there a reason why C rubeus isn't talked about as much C naokaoe?

Thank you!!

and back to the flasher drawing board. Attenuatus and rubricadalis not available
looks like “available” is McCosker, Carpenter, flavianalis, cyaneus, what they’re calling a royal flasher (angular?), linespot, and Lineatus (off my list), and octotaenia (very pretty hadnt seen that one yet.)

i cant think · Jan 19, 2023

Slocke said:
Darn I was thinking that as my next wrasse. I've also never seen Joan so that may also be why.

Nicest as in less aggressive or prettier?

Nicest as in prettier, they’re around the same in terms of aggressive.

As for Joanallenae, it was believed Naokoae was just a variation of the Joan’s Fairy and not actually its own species. Naokoae is a pretty recent discovery of 2008 (I will admit not recent recent unlike finifenmaa but it’s also not like it was decades ago like other species).