The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[Tcook]

Drop shipper?

As in WWC never has possession of the fish. They take the payment and have the fish wholesaler ship the fish directly to the customer.

 

[Tcook]

I’m not saying that they do that. I just don’t understand your Long Island comment.

 

[Slocke]

I’m not saying that they do that. I just don’t understand your Long Island comment.

Its very suspect... They use a service called "Fish Direct" which I cannot find online and it definitely isn't on their site. A lot about how they ship corals; JS about their fish.

 

[Tcook]

Its very suspect... They use a service called "Fish Direct" which I cannot find online and it definitely isn't on their site. A lot about how they ship corals; JS about their fish.

Sounds like they drop ship. Now their drop shipper may have good conditioning practices, or not. We don’t know. Lack of clarity would make me uncomfortable purchasing from them. Who knows. With increased sales they may obtain more space to condition and ship fish themselves.

 

[JoJosReef]

M. bipartis (and Stonogobiops yasha and Koumansetta rainfordi) arriving tomorrow from Dr. Reef!

Does anyone have advice on acclimation with respect to Dr. Reef's guide? For ref:

Salinity Acclimation (For Fish only)
We ship fish at sg of 1.021 so if your tanks sg is 1.026 that’s a difference of 5 points. Please follow the following procedure according to the difference in salinity.
NOTE: We ship in lower salinity and medicines in water to minimize shipping stress as higher salinity causes stress in shipping.

If salinity is within 1 point:
After temperature acclimation simply release fish to your tank.

If salinity is within 2 point:
After temperature acclimation, release all fish and transport water into a bucket. Take out 25% transport water and discard it. Replace it with same amount of tank water or new saltwater. Wait 10 min and repeat the water exchange again. Wait 10 min between each exchange. Check the salinity and it should be within 1 point and you can choose to either release them into tank or do another exchange if there are very sensitive fish in the mix.

If salinity is more than 3 points:
Follow the steps above and keep replacing transport water with new saltwater or tank water giving 10 min in between each exchange till salinity is a match. Note: For sensitive fish and inverts it’s best to drip acclimate over 30-45 min or longer if salinity is off more than 3 points. Also keep an eye on ammonia and place some sort of water movement or air stone in the bucket.


Specifically, it sounds like he suggests dumping all of the fish into a single bucket. Is that a good idea or better to do separate buckets?

Would M. bipartitis count as a sensitive fish that would be better drip acclimated over an hour or more?

What would you do for ammonia mitigation? Would adding any Seachem Prime help?

Air stone?

Thanks! I hope I have some alive-and-well wrasse pics for you soon!

 

[Tcook]

M. bipartis (and Stonogobiops yasha and Koumansetta rainfordi) arriving tomorrow from Dr. Reef!

Does anyone have advice on acclimation with respect to Dr. Reef's guide? For ref:

Salinity Acclimation (For Fish only)
We ship fish at sg of 1.021 so if your tanks sg is 1.026 that’s a difference of 5 points. Please follow the following procedure according to the difference in salinity.
NOTE: We ship in lower salinity and medicines in water to minimize shipping stress as higher salinity causes stress in shipping.

If salinity is within 1 point:
After temperature acclimation simply release fish to your tank.

If salinity is within 2 point:
After temperature acclimation, release all fish and transport water into a bucket. Take out 25% transport water and discard it. Replace it with same amount of tank water or new saltwater. Wait 10 min and repeat the water exchange again. Wait 10 min between each exchange. Check the salinity and it should be within 1 point and you can choose to either release them into tank or do another exchange if there are very sensitive fish in the mix.

If salinity is more than 3 points:
Follow the steps above and keep replacing transport water with new saltwater or tank water giving 10 min in between each exchange till salinity is a match. Note: For sensitive fish and inverts it’s best to drip acclimate over 30-45 min or longer if salinity is off more than 3 points. Also keep an eye on ammonia and place some sort of water movement or air stone in the bucket.


Specifically, it sounds like he suggests dumping all of the fish into a single bucket. Is that a good idea or better to do separate buckets?

Would M. bipartitis count as a sensitive fish that would be better drip acclimated over an hour or more?

What would you do for ammonia mitigation? Would adding any Seachem Prime help?

Air stone?

Thanks! I hope I have some alive-and-well wrasse pics for you so

What i would do is have a QT tank setup at 1.021. Then you can float for temp then net fish and add to your QT. Then you can slowly raise salinity without dealing with ammonia release from fish shipped in O2. Don’t drip acclimate.

 

[Slocke]

M. bipartis (and Stonogobiops yasha and Koumansetta rainfordi) arriving tomorrow from Dr. Reef!

Does anyone have advice on acclimation with respect to Dr. Reef's guide? For ref:

Salinity Acclimation (For Fish only)
We ship fish at sg of 1.021 so if your tanks sg is 1.026 that’s a difference of 5 points. Please follow the following procedure according to the difference in salinity.
NOTE: We ship in lower salinity and medicines in water to minimize shipping stress as higher salinity causes stress in shipping.

If salinity is within 1 point:
After temperature acclimation simply release fish to your tank.

If salinity is within 2 point:
After temperature acclimation, release all fish and transport water into a bucket. Take out 25% transport water and discard it. Replace it with same amount of tank water or new saltwater. Wait 10 min and repeat the water exchange again. Wait 10 min between each exchange. Check the salinity and it should be within 1 point and you can choose to either release them into tank or do another exchange if there are very sensitive fish in the mix.

If salinity is more than 3 points:
Follow the steps above and keep replacing transport water with new saltwater or tank water giving 10 min in between each exchange till salinity is a match. Note: For sensitive fish and inverts it’s best to drip acclimate over 30-45 min or longer if salinity is off more than 3 points. Also keep an eye on ammonia and place some sort of water movement or air stone in the bucket.


Specifically, it sounds like he suggests dumping all of the fish into a single bucket. Is that a good idea or better to do separate buckets?

Would M. bipartitis count as a sensitive fish that would be better drip acclimated over an hour or more?

What would you do for ammonia mitigation? Would adding any Seachem Prime help?

Air stone?

Thanks! I hope I have some alive-and-well wrasse pics for you soon!

I thought he added an ammonia reducer. Personally with shipped fish ammonia worries me more than salinity changes. I float and add but maybe having some 1.021 water ready would be smart.

 

[JoJosReef]

What i would do is have a QT tank setup at 1.021. Then you can float for temp then net fish and add to your QT. Then you can slowly raise salinity without dealing with ammonia release from fish shipped in O2. Don’t drip acclimate.

I thought he added an ammonia reducer. Personally with shipped fish ammonia worries me more than salinity changes. I float and add but maybe having some 1.021 water ready would be smart.

Good idea. I'll set up a 1.021sg bucket. I don't have a QT tank, so bucket will have to do.

How about the three fish together in the bucket? Is that ok, or is it going to become Mortal Kombat?

Thanks!

 

[Slocke]

Good idea. I'll set up a 1.021sg bucket. I don't have a QT tank, so bucket will have to do.

How about the three fish together in the bucket? Is that ok, or is it going to become Mortal Kombat?

Thanks!

Nah I highly doubt they’ll have any issues with each other.

 

[AZReef13]

Sounds like they drop ship. Now their drop shipper may have good conditioning practices, or not. We don’t know. Lack of clarity would make me uncomfortable purchasing from them. Who knows. With increased sales they may obtain more space to condition and ship fish themselves.

I was supposed to get my Radiant from them last Friday. It was shipped due to it came down with ICH. Not sure who caught that but it pleased me knowing they just didn't ship a sick fish

 

[Petcrazyson]

M. bipartis (and Stonogobiops yasha and Koumansetta rainfordi) arriving tomorrow from Dr. Reef!

Does anyone have advice on acclimation with respect to Dr. Reef's guide? For ref:

Salinity Acclimation (For Fish only)
We ship fish at sg of 1.021 so if your tanks sg is 1.026 that’s a difference of 5 points. Please follow the following procedure according to the difference in salinity.
NOTE: We ship in lower salinity and medicines in water to minimize shipping stress as higher salinity causes stress in shipping.

If salinity is within 1 point:
After temperature acclimation simply release fish to your tank.

If salinity is within 2 point:
After temperature acclimation, release all fish and transport water into a bucket. Take out 25% transport water and discard it. Replace it with same amount of tank water or new saltwater. Wait 10 min and repeat the water exchange again. Wait 10 min between each exchange. Check the salinity and it should be within 1 point and you can choose to either release them into tank or do another exchange if there are very sensitive fish in the mix.

If salinity is more than 3 points:
Follow the steps above and keep replacing transport water with new saltwater or tank water giving 10 min in between each exchange till salinity is a match. Note: For sensitive fish and inverts it’s best to drip acclimate over 30-45 min or longer if salinity is off more than 3 points. Also keep an eye on ammonia and place some sort of water movement or air stone in the bucket.


Specifically, it sounds like he suggests dumping all of the fish into a single bucket. Is that a good idea or better to do separate buckets?

Would M. bipartitis count as a sensitive fish that would be better drip acclimated over an hour or more?

What would you do for ammonia mitigation? Would adding any Seachem Prime help?

Air stone?

Thanks! I hope I have some alive-and-well wrasse pics for you soon!

@SaltyT can help!

 

[i cant think]

You’ve never seen a good in person johnsoni ;)

And I doubt I will as they’re always boring without the displaying to keep their colour ;)

 

[Petcrazyson]

And I doubt I will as they’re always boring without the displaying to keep their colour ;)

Touché ;)

Although

 

[SaltyT]

@SaltyT can help!

I agree with Tcook have a tank already matched to the same salinity as the shipped fish. Do not drip! Bringing a sensitive fish up more than 2-3ppm in 24hrs can cause osmotic shock and additional stress. Bring the salinity up 2-3ppm per day until it matches your tank's salinity then move the fish over. It's the safest, less stressful method.

Edit: stupid iPhone auto-correct it should read 2-3ppt not ppm

 

[Slocke]

Both fish are here and they both look nice and active!

 

[Slocke]

Now I have to figure out who goes where. The Geographicus(?) is big. Bigger then I'd like for my acclimation box. Hopefully big enough not to worry about bullying. So I'm thinking straight in. Then the other one goes in acclimation.

 

[Petcrazyson]

Now I have to figure out who goes where. The Geographicus(?) is big. Bigger then I'd like for my acclimation box. Hopefully big enough not to worry about bullying. So I'm thinking straight in. Then the other one goes in acclimation.

:thinking-face::thinking-face:
What’s the other one?

 

[Slocke]

Here’s a decent photo of a male, the males are gorgeous and look very similar to a male femininus but without much yellow.

It is definitely a male geographicus!! I'd have preffered a female but I'm so glad youre right and it is an Anampses. It immediately buried itself but looked pretty healthy!

 

[Slocke]

:thinking-face::thinking-face:
What’s the other one?

 

[Petcrazyson]

Xenojulis? M. Ornatus?