The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[Greenstreet.1]

I have to beg to differ here. Sure, the species which exceed 6 inches or those of the Coris genus are well known to flip over items looking for food. But the smaller species of Halichoeres and especially all the Macropharyngodon are very unlikely to do so.


We can agree there. The sand sleepers are all prone to sifting the sand, in search of food. And of course if they see something, they'll go after it.

So it would be normal for geoffroy to occasionally make a mess with some sand, but not very normal for it to toss around corals sitting on the sand.


That should help; may well be underfed currently.
But if it's only happening just prior to lights out, that sounds more like seeking out a safe place to bed down for the night. In which case, I'd expect that to quit with time, once it learns the "safe" spots of the tank.

Your the boss so you win [emoji1474][emoji1474]

 

[eatbreakfast]

Thanks much for all your input. I'm new to keeping wrasse especially sand sleepers. I really enjoy his beauty but not the tossing of sand all over my rocks and coral so I'm hoping it stops.

I bought two bottles of tiger pods today. The closest store doesn't carry any other live food like brine. Will they eat live brine if I hatch some myself?

Newly hatched baby brine shrimp are actually very nutritious, just the longer they go post hatch before being fed, the more nutritional value is lost. I believe I read a figure that after 12hrs they have lost half of their nutritional value. However, hatching them is pretty easy, andthey hatch at a pretty consistent rate of about 24hrs, so it is quite possible to time it so that most will hatch right around feeding time.

Adult brine shrimp are far less nutritious, but do elicit quite a feeding response. However, their nutritional value can be increased by feeding them coral foods a couple of hrs before feeding them to the fish.

 

[cale0721]

Newly hatched baby brine shrimp are actually very nutritious, just the longer they go post hatch before being fed, the more nutritional value is lost. I believe I read a figure that after 12hrs they have lost half of their nutritional value. However, hatching them is pretty easy, andthey hatch at a pretty consistent rate of about 24hrs, so it is quite possible to time it so that most will hatch right around feeding time.

Adult brine shrimp are far less nutritious, but do elicit quite a feeding response. However, their nutritional value can be increased by feeding them coral foods a couple of hrs before feeding them to the fish.

I might try it out. Today I feed larrys fish frenzy and some cyclops .. He ate some larrys! [HASHTAG]#win[/HASHTAG] [emoji322][emoji1]

 

[Duke4Life]

I might try it out. Today I feed larrys fish frenzy and some cyclops .. He ate some larrys! [HASHTAG]#win[/HASHTAG] [emoji322][emoji1]

Don't know what it is but fish love that.

 

[Duke4Life]

Still working on getting a good pic but I added my McCosker flasher to my DT. My Carpenters flasher has always flashed but never like he does now to my other. I'm going to need more flasher wrasses, after I find the other wrasse I'm on the hunt for of course :)

 

[Greenstreet.1]

One of my oldest and second wrasse added to my main tank also one of my fav.

 

[AYM4DRIVER]

Wrasse survival story. In early March, this guy was nearly eaten alive by an Emerald Crab.

 

[AYM4DRIVER]

The same Wrasse last night!

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Wow good to see he's still around looks like everything is growing back wow.

 

[Jstn]

Screw crabs, eat everything but bubble algae

 

[Greenstreet.1]

He must have been very weak when that happened for the crab to get him happy that he's getting better

 

[AYM4DRIVER]

Caught him with the lights out buried in the sand. His tail was bitten off 3 times before and couldn't find the culprit. Then, I saw him struggling with the crab but couldn't catch it before this happened. I though the fish was done for, tried to catch it to send it quarantine but it was too fast, I couldn't, so I let him be. The crab finally did it's walk across the front and into the sump he went.

 

[cale0721]

Wrasse survival story. In early March, this guy was nearly eaten alive by an Emerald Crab.

Holy smokes! I had one of those jerks make a scar on my mandarin - she still chubby and happy tho.

 

[evolved]

Newly hatched baby brine shrimp are actually very nutritious, just the longer they go post hatch before being fed, the more nutritional value is lost. I believe I read a figure that after 12hrs they have lost half of their nutritional value.

Thanks for that; I learned something.

 

[Jstn]

Just purchased a pair of rhomboids finally!!

 

[Duke4Life]

When dealing with a group of flasher wrasses, is there a certain number that works best? Or the more various types the better?

 

[evolved]

More of the latter; 2 can be tough. 4 or more makes it quite a bit easier.

 

[eatbreakfast]

When dealing with a group of flasher wrasses, is there a certain number that works best? Or the more various types the better?

I have found that having at least 3+ gives the best display, but they burn out faster, whereas 1 with other 'wimpy' planktivores seems to have not as dynamic displays, but remains dominant longer.

 

[Paul87]

Pink margin and Potter's leopard doing great, staying active.

 

[mfinn]

I have a small female meleagris in my 240 now. ( bought 3, but only one survived )

I would like to add a 2-3 bipartitus.
Providing I get the new ones through quarantine, what is the pecking order going to be like?

Will the single meleagris turn male? Like my last one did?
Will any of the bipartitus turn male?
Is it possible that I could get a male of each?
Will they get along? Are the 2 different leopard wrasses compete or co-exist?

Just trying to get a idea on what the possibilities could be.