Things to Consider When Choosing a Lighting System

Thank you for reiterating your points. My interest is in the popular idea that only something that produces a PAR of 300 at desired depth will suffice for optimum SPS growth. According to what you are saying, we can not make such generalizations. Without further tasting we can not say for sure if 100 PAR or 300 PAR is ideal for any particular species of SPS.

 

I grow goniopora with 70-100 PAR beneath MH and T5. Also torch coral and hammers and they all do well once they acclimate. Oh, and I have have a giant blue clam there too. All are on the bottom at 70-100 PAR.

 

That's a sweet tank.

If you want to take it slow, why not start on one end of the tank with some different inexpensive corals that you want to test? Then only put the lighting you might ultimately want (more expensive probably) on that end and just T-5 supplemental over the rest since it is fish-only.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Like your reply @sghera64...specially the part on ‘patience’!!
I think with all the available features on the different LED fixtures to control color spectrum, intensity and time the lights are on, we abuse these flexibilities by fiddling too much with the settings. Coupled with this is our own visual preference / liking of coral color. Not always does that fit with the requirements of the corals!
I for one is surely guilty of not allowing enough time for corals to get adjusted to a given set of spectrum, intensity and the duration. Maybe the T5s with their less flexibility allow the corals to get used to ‘stable’ light and hence are ‘easier’ for a new comer? This is assuming one can set the LED and let it be !
After 30 odd years of freshwater cichlids and what not, I am in the fifth year of reef keeping. Started with T5s, got a bit of understanding of reef quality water chemistry and now venturing into Kessils and Radions. Funnily enough I have one A360 and one of the older Radions gens,one on each side of my 1 meter long tank (total appx 55 gallons). Currently trying to figure out which of the above two works better for me and then i will shift to same type. Confusion still reigns between the color spectrum of the Kessil and the controlling ease of the Radion. Also had to get used to the sharp contrasting light and shadowy regions of the rockscape after T5s. But love the color pop no doubt!!

So to sum up i think i am going to repeat myself here...maybe a newcomer needs to start with T5s (plenty of brilliant options are now available), learn to ‘read/understand’ your coral health by simply looking at your tank rather than chasing numbers rigorously and then slowly shift to top quality LEDs if you fancy coral fluorescence. Don’t overlook the right choice of fishes too!
And IMO there are no substitutes of a rigid water changing schedule and the incredible help you will get here at R2R!
Cheers!

 

Started a 90 gallon saltwater aquarium recently. Would like to grow corals. What lighting would work best for optimal coral growth?

 

Have zoanthids already, probably want some hammer corals, GSP and an anemone for my clowns.

The tank is 48” long

 

Ausom thank you for all the thoughts

 

That's because thats mainly for acropora, not porites. When people say sps they primarily mean acropora and montipora, ime. The 250-350 is recommended for acropora. Porites is definitely a lower light sps ime.

Having said that, there are many Deepwater acropora that do better at 150-250 par, ime. You can also bring out different colors by going higher than 350 all the way up to 600 in some acros. It depends on the coral, but 250-350 is a great overall recommendation for acropora , assuming average photoperiod and light source.

 

are kessils a360 any good?

 

I have a 36"×36"×20" tank with 2 × 180W Maxspect Razors running at 90%/90% and around 30 BTA's and 1 magnifica. Some of the BTA's are thriving 5cms below the water line while other are surviving in a cave where most of the light they get is ambient light from the room. They generally bubble up more the closer they are to the light source.

I long for the day when the following questions make sense:

"Does the main light travel and rotate in synch with the sun at your location?"

"Does the fill light adjust its spectrum and intensity according to the current sky dome status at any location/time in the world?".

 

They are great lights

 

Great info

 

I have question that has always bothered me in regards to LED lighting. The back story is , I heard a lecture at Reefapolza last year about LED lighting. The premise was to turn all colors up to full and adjust the power accordingly, Allowing the corals to have access to the full spectrum of light. So with that in mind, In the Ocean how much does the depth of the water alter the Spectrum ? And if so is there a calculation to determine how to adjust the light in our reef tanks to simulate those depths based on the corals we grow in our tanks. Currently I have been using that method for about a year and have had no adverse affects on my corals (LPS,Monti,Zoas) although some corals tend to have more growth that others.

 

Nice to see this post Dana! I'm using something similar: a 6 foot BML, a 6 foot Sunbrite, and a pair of 3 foot Orpheks on my SPS tank. Been using all LED on the tank since 2009, and I believe that using strip lights has helped me avoid the shading issues that beleaguer so many reef tanks, especially those that are SPS dominated.

And all the urban farms in Detroit use the BML (now known as "Fluence") fixtures.

 

Full spectrum supply to corals should work, but consider the alternative: provide them an alternative, keep it constant and they will adjust to the light. Either way, the key is consistency (no change).

A general heuristic is that you lose one primary color (R-O-Y-G-B-I-V) for every 10 feet of depth (but it depends on water quality and what else is and under the water (sand, rock, algae). So, a coral that breaks off of a colony at 10 feet and gets swept away to a new location that is 20 feet away will adjust to a new color spectrum.