Torch Dying?

OrangeEye_Aqua

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I recently purchased a torch (told he was about to split), and he seemed okay after a couple days... but now he's been closed up for about 2-3 days. I had/have a long tentacle anemone about 3 months that is nothing but a little nub; I was told that if it was dead, I would have noticed the smell- no smell. I have done a 25% water change and my levels are:
Iron: 0
Copper: 0
Nitrate: 25
Nitrite: 1
Chlorine: 0
Hardness: 150
Alkalinity: 300
Carbonate: 80
pH: 8.4

SALINITY: 1.02
My 29-gallon tank consists of: ORA Stellar Stylophora Coral (< 2 in.), ORA Black & White Clownfish Captive-Bred, ORA False Percula Clownfish Extreme Misbar Captive Bred (2), Exquisite Firefish Goby, Bicolor Blenny, Chocolate Chip Star and Sandsifter Star. As well as some bumblebee and astraea-turbo-snails.

I know my levels aren't all ideal, but I'm not sure how to fix all of them.

I've been using Phytoplex, Micro Vert Food and Zoo Plankton.


I'm pretty sure he's dead, and if not then dying... any advice on ANYTHING in my over informative post would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


Torch.jpg
 

Lavey29

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Well yes does look dead. I'm not sure about your parameters. Are you just using test strips? You need to get some decent water testers like hanna.
 
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OrangeEye_Aqua

OrangeEye_Aqua

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Well yes does look dead. I'm not sure about your parameters. Are you just using test strips? You need to get some decent water testers like hanna.
I do have an API Saltwater Master Test Kit and the strips test for everything I had listed. I just ordered a water tester that should be here tomorrow.
Should I take the torch out of my aquarium?
 

Lavey29

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I do have an API Saltwater Master Test Kit and the strips test for everything I had listed. I just ordered a water tester that should be here tomorrow.
Should I take the torch out of my aquarium?
Yes it appears gone unless you see some color left. You need to use your API kit or even better get some Hanna checkers. Strips can be used to spot check if something is off but don't rely on them. Focus on getting everything tested properly and in the right ranges before adding more coral. This includes proper light and flow too.
 
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OrangeEye_Aqua

OrangeEye_Aqua

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Yes it appears gone unless you see some color left. You need to use your API kit or even better get some Hanna checkers. Strips can be used to spot check if something is off but don't rely on them. Focus on getting everything tested properly and in the right ranges before adding more coral. This includes proper light and flow too.
Okay will do. I had a Current USA Orbit Marine LED and 660 GPH eflux Wave Pump. Because I wasn't using all the Current had to offer, I returned it.
Can you recommend anything for a 29-gallon? Now that my torch is dead, and the long tenacle anemone is a nub (dead)... I guess I will start over again. My clowns have been with me since the beginning (March 17, 2022).
 

aggrofish

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Okay will do. I had a Current USA Orbit Marine LED and 660 GPH eflux Wave Pump. Because I wasn't using all the Current had to offer, I returned it.
Can you recommend anything for a 29-gallon? Now that my torch is dead, and the long tenacle anemone is a nub (dead)... I guess I will start over again. My clowns have been with me since the beginning (March 17, 2022).
I hate to burst your bubble but current are garbage lights. running 2 IC marine pros will barely be enough light for corals. If moneys tight get a black box. Otherwise a step up would be reefleds / AI. I had 3 of their eflux 660 powerheads in a 45G. I wouldn’t be surprised if they put out 1/2 the claimed GPh.

anyway your tank looks new. As other said get your parameters in order and get some better test kits. If you’re just going to run fish and some easy corals you can get away with a Hanna ULR phosphate checker and DKH along with a calcium and magnesium from red seas. I personally use the nyos for nitrate.
 

Lavey29

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Okay will do. I had a Current USA Orbit Marine LED and 660 GPH eflux Wave Pump. Because I wasn't using all the Current had to offer, I returned it.
Can you recommend anything for a 29-gallon? Now that my torch is dead, and the long tenacle anemone is a nub (dead)... I guess I will start over again. My clowns have been with me since the beginning (March 17, 2022).
Parameters, light and flow are the primary things required for corals and they work in sync with each other. There are many light and flow options depending on your budget. I would just google search them for your tank or make a separate thread asking for suggestions in the forum. You will find multiple people with similar tank to yours and they can tell you their set up. You need to start with easy corals like mushrooms , zoas xenia, sinularia , etc... torches are tricky corals. Good luck
 

Goodersgold

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Definitely check your Phosphate levels, I had a massive spike when I introduced dry rock, my torch died. Good luck
 

Wakenbaker420

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I made the mistake on buying Current Orbit led lights. First got the 48" single led and that wasn't enough. Then got the IC pro duel 48" and wasn't impressed, I could barely keep corals happy. Only low light corals. I run 4 kessil and T5 now and everything is thriving, even the sps. Id throw away that API test kit and get some better test kits...salifert or hanna. Lighting, flow and keeping all your numbers stable is key to success. My tank is just over a year and have changed and learned many things. Fun hobby and always progressing thanks to R2R. Keep at it.
 

joekidwell

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Are those bubbles in the background from an airstone? Reason I ask is because if you have enough flow the surface agitation would be sufficient for dissolved oxygen. My bet is on the lighting and low flow, you want a torch to be dancing back and fourth in the flow but not like its in a tornado, the the surface should be churning, never glass like.
 

Nate Chalk

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Salinity is low.

Torches are not really for beginners, neither are anemones. You will want to get better testing equiptment and a handle on keeping the tank stable before purchasing such things.
 

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