Tunze 6105 ORCA Initial Review
- Thread starter mstgkillr
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areefer01
5000 Club Member
That was a good find. Here is mine on the brace as well. I should have took a picture before it was attached for the actual mounting piece and parts. Didn't think of that :(
It is a snug fit in case anyone is curious. The three screws secure it well. The screws and bracket are 3D printed but very high quality. There is no slop in the thread and once it is tight it doesn't come undone. I have checked mine a couple times out of curiosity.
Thanks guys. Do you think a pair of 6105s is the right size Tunze powerheads for a 5 foot mixed reef tank (60x22x24") with an internal overflow? I'd like to install them on the sides of the overflow - I might start with just the fixed pumps as shown below and consider upgrading to the ORCA later.
@rvitko
@rvitko
I think for a mixed reef scenario, 2 6075 models will cover it. This depends a bit on your long term goals, if it will be more SPS then you might want 6105. The 6075's are smaller and less obtrusive and they cover a 30" distance really well with flow and that is basically all you need.
Just ordered two of the 6105s. Thanks for this thread as it was what pushed me over the edge. I am replacing two panta rhei ecm42.
I can't believe that didn't do anything more elegant with the power cord coming off the pump. It should have some sort of cord holder on the carbon fiber tube or hold the cord inside the tube.
Futuretotm
Well-Known Member
@rvitkoAny chance that shaft can be shortened even more?
Any ideas on how to “mount” my orcas? Double sticky tape? I guess I need another drill hole for the pumps wire
I feel like mine is way too low in the tank, thinking of taking a dremel to it, but splinters and respiratory issues keeping me back. Plus I’m sure it will invalidate warranty.
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areefer01
5000 Club Member
I don't believe you are understanding the challenge of securing the cable to something that can potentially move 360 degrees. We, the hobbyist, have a couple of ways to make it neat and orderly. Will vary by our implementations.
I've used a small zip tie to secure it to the carbon fiber shaft, then another one in the canopy to prevent possible cord fray. Having said that I also removed it as I clean my powerheads frequently. More than likely I will just 3d print a clip and Bob will be my Uncle...
If we got to space with computers that are much less powerful than my phone, we can make a motile aquarium pump.
I had the same thought about the 3d-printed clips.
There is no practical way to shorten the pipe, this is the shortest you can make it and still have the ability to extend it, I know first hand, I tried and then the engineers told me they have done every possible mod and concept and short of making a fixed length pipe where you get it 1.5" shorter, there is no way to make it any shorter and the design we have was chosen because most early users have large, sometimes very large 500-2000 gallon tanks and wanted both submersion depth possibilities, a couple running shallow and a couple running deeper.
The ORCA really needs to be clamped, I would not consider a through hole installation secure, if you were able to clamp it, you can work with the clamps to raise it, this can raise it considerably if you remove the clamps from the bracket and flip them around.
The ORCA really needs to be clamped, I would not consider a through hole installation secure, if you were able to clamp it, you can work with the clamps to raise it, this can raise it considerably if you remove the clamps from the bracket and flip them around.
exnisstech
Grumpy old man
My 6075 is out for delivery.
Bold assumption we made it to space
exnisstech
Grumpy old man
Solved.
If all else fails remove the cardboard packing and look for two small white envelopes one of which contains the US adapter that slides into place.
Ok at the risk of showing my ignorance and because there is literally no instructions included can anyone tell me how to get the prongs out on this power supply? Prying on them feels like they are going to break.
@areefer01 @rtparty @rvitko ?
If all else fails remove the cardboard packing and look for two small white envelopes one of which contains the US adapter that slides into place.
Ok at the risk of showing my ignorance and because there is literally no instructions included can anyone tell me how to get the prongs out on this power supply? Prying on them feels like they are going to break.
@areefer01 @rtparty @rvitko ?
Last edited:
areefer01
5000 Club Member
Solved.
If all else fails remove the cardboard packing and look for two small white envelopes one of which contains the US adapter that slides into place.
Ok at the risk of showing my ignorance and because there is literally no instructions included can anyone tell me how to get the prongs out on this power supply? Prying on them feels like they are going to break.
@areefer01 @rtparty @rvitko ?
There should be adapters that you slide over it.
Edit: in the box, should be. Just clip/slide and you are good.
Edit 2: I see you got it now - ignore my reply. Sorry!
rtparty
7500 Club Member
Solved.
If all else fails remove the cardboard packing and look for two small white envelopes one of which contains the US adapter that slides into place.
Ok at the risk of showing my ignorance and because there is literally no instructions included can anyone tell me how to get the prongs out on this power supply? Prying on them feels like they are going to break.
@areefer01 @rtparty @rvitko ?
I did the exact same thing. They looked like prongs that flipped out to me
Futuretotm
Well-Known Member
Response from Tunze (email)
Not easily, basically you can take the two pieces, cut the long onto about 4.5” and glue in a piece of the small one as a bushing and then you have to redrill the holes for the screws, it destroys a $70 carbon fiber pipe so keep that in mind, it is real German carbon fiber, it is not some cheap chinese print on plastic. It does cut and machine easily, it is messy, you will be covered in carbon dust. You can only gain about 1.5, the rest of the space is needed by the motor end and the clamp end. The length it has is the absolute minimum it can be and remain adjustable, believe me, I tried. One of the biggest users is large tanks, and people with 500 gallon plus tanks generally want a couple running deep and a couple shallow so the pipe is a compromise that gives the shortest possible but still allows a deeper option.
This is the simple way to raise it if you have perimeter brace. You can take off the 3 clamps and flip them around, this lifts up the clamp and the entire ORCA a couple inches.
Not easily, basically you can take the two pieces, cut the long onto about 4.5” and glue in a piece of the small one as a bushing and then you have to redrill the holes for the screws, it destroys a $70 carbon fiber pipe so keep that in mind, it is real German carbon fiber, it is not some cheap chinese print on plastic. It does cut and machine easily, it is messy, you will be covered in carbon dust. You can only gain about 1.5, the rest of the space is needed by the motor end and the clamp end. The length it has is the absolute minimum it can be and remain adjustable, believe me, I tried. One of the biggest users is large tanks, and people with 500 gallon plus tanks generally want a couple running deep and a couple shallow so the pipe is a compromise that gives the shortest possible but still allows a deeper option.
This is the simple way to raise it if you have perimeter brace. You can take off the 3 clamps and flip them around, this lifts up the clamp and the entire ORCA a couple inches.
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