Union thread to bulk head thread??

[Mele__Reef]

@Ocelaris

 

[Ocelaris]

It doesn't really matter where the check valve is, but I put mine near where it turns to go out the back so I can use the union to pull it apart easily for maintenance.

 

[DBR_Reef]

I've got a couple suggestions for drains:
definitely go with a full siphon option
if you have a slip bulkhead then glue a pvc nipple cut in half into it- this makes it re-usable and easy to work on
Get a proper gate valve for the siphon drain- they are not much more than a ball and are a million times easier to tune
put the gate valve as close to the drain opening as possible- this decreases air in the system

For returns
don't use check valves- they are unreliable and flow restrictions
use as large a return pipe size as possible/reasonable- this makes a huge difference in pump efficiency

 

[kingdog22]

In the process of designing a blueprint for my hard pvc plumbing on a SCA 50 gal. My question is, is it safe to connect a threaded union to my threaded bulkhead? Or should I cut a piece of pvc pipe and slip it in the bulkhead then connect the union to the pvc that sticks out from the bulkhead? What's the best way for this? Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks.

I connect a union to the bulkhead whenever possible! Makes maintenance and tearing down a breeze! I've been doing it for 7 years now on nano to 480 gallon aquariums. I use good thread tape and I only put them on by hand! I've never had a issue or 1 leak! You don't ruin the bulkhead and it makes things so much easier if you upgrade, move, or add something to the plumbing.

 

[kingdog22]

It doesn't really matter where the check valve is, but I put mine near where it turns to go out the back so I can use the union to pull it apart easily for maintenance.

A good check valve like A Wye Fischer is money well spent! I like to put mine right above the return pump. That way when you turn it off it stays full. So when you restart it a bunch of air doest pop in the tank with a bunch of noise and slashing. I've actually seen light have the lenses crack because of that.

 

[deleau]

This is a great article/site about a Herbie drain. I use it on my tank (custom build with a Herbie in mind during the design), and it is whisper quiet, easy to dial in and very safe. (The "Bean Animal" is still a "superior" design, imo in terms of overall safety/security, but not at the expense of what I wanted or what you'd need to do for it.)

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

Depending on how your return nozzles are set, there are a couple ways to preventing a siphon should your return pump fail that make needing a check value unnecessary (even the Wye can clog and needs maintenance). One particular way is to drill a hole in the return plumbing near/above the water where presumably your loc-line is located. That hole needs to be above the water. Wrap a piece of velcro around it. It won't spray (it will leak but goes right into your tank, so you don't care). Should something happen, air is drawn in through the hole and breaks any siphon.

 

[Ocelaris]

A good check valve like A Wye Fischer is money well spent! I like to put mine right above the return pump. That way when you turn it off it stays full. So when you restart it a bunch of air doest pop in the tank with a bunch of noise and slashing. I've actually seen light have the lenses crack because of that.

Agreed, the brs check valve is a union, so you can replace it. It may reduce flow some, but bit more than say a few 90 degree bends. It serves a purpose, and you can retrofit it later if absolutely necessary, but you'd be out of a return pump while it dries. So if overflowing your sump is an issue I'd highly recommend it.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Here's another question for you guys @Ocelaris @kingdog22 @DBR_Reef . So, I am going to the Herbie design. I'm going to make my return 3/4" but I would like to keep the spray nozzles where they are. Which is at the top , inside the overflow box. They connect to 1/2" MTP connectors which connect to a 1/2"pipe. If I reduce the end of my return line to connect to those MTP connectors. Will it create more pressure coming out of the nozzle or the opposite?

 

[Ocelaris]

It will make more pressure, but I don't rely on the return for any amount of tank water movement as it's just not that much compared to wave makers. Mine had 2 half inch loc-lines which I could have used, but that would have impeded me from getting my hands into the overflow. Every once in a while I have to rescue a fish/snail and clean it out so I opted to leave the return as 3/4 and just spill back into the tank at a random angle, and I have a street 90 that's not glued that I stick in there if I want to change the direction.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Good point about having space in the overflow. I kind of want to keep the loclines that came setup for the over flow. I was just afraid that I would restrict flow severely by reducing the 3/4" to meet the 1/2" line that connects the mpt connectors that connect to the loclines on the left and right side of the overflow.

 

[Ocelaris]

It will reduce it, but the equation for fluid resistance takes into consideration the distance that the diameter is smaller. So running 3/4 the whole way and then shrinking to 1/2 isn't equal to running 1/2 the entire length. It still has value to run as large a diameter as is reasonable for as long as you can.

Off the cuff guess is that at worse it would be equivalent to two 90s. So it's not a huge deal except if you're pumping a tremendous volume which then increases in pressure as it exits creating undesirable flow. However I doubt that would be an issue.

There are tons of fluid resistance calculators online, but I wouldn't make too big a deal about it. Just size your pump a little larger.

 

[Mele__Reef]

What size pump is adequate for a 50 gallon cube with a 20 gallon sump? I was looking at the Jebao DC 4000. What do you think? I like the fact that it comes with a controller. @Ocelaris

 

[Ocelaris]

I like jebao, but the DC pumps have a greater drop off than their ac counter parts. Rough estimate with a manifold basically if you can find the pump head, halve the flow rate and size based on that. You can always drop the speed if you get a DC pump. Also if you plan on running other things off the manifold add another 20 percent flow. I couldn't find the pump curve for jebao, but most ac pump manufacturers have a curve you can reference.

 

[Ocelaris]

Here's a pump curve for the Jebaos. It's in metric, but basically look at the curve for height to start as a reference for ratio. You'll probably want to Size at least double whatever you imagined you'd need. It's not that much more for the more powerful pumps, and as it gets clogged flow will decrease further. All pumps need to be cleaned every few months, Jebaos being no different. I think they get a bad rap, but I've been very pleased with their wave makers.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...LhzlA1nWL48oWQoGg&sig2=9cIagygZrKrcCA6DMhvD7g

 

[Mele__Reef]

I'm looking into that. I'm taking my time with this build. I want to to do everything right the first time. I also have another question. What's the proper way to fill your tank and set the correct level in your sump without overflow when the pumps shut off. Sorry if it's a noob question. This is my first sump system. Thanks for all of your help by the way.

 

[Ocelaris]

Usually the final wier, where the pump resides determines the sump level. However the skimmer height is very important. Too low and you don't get good foam, too high and it overflows easily. I have my apex turn off my skimmer when I do a water change, and even with the check valve on the return, I still get another 2-3 inches higher with the pump off. Usually about half full is normal, but a pre-built sump usually sets that for you.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Thanks! It's all coming together for me now.. I'm also torn between getting fancy with plumbing. In other words getting color piping or using standard white .

 

[Ocelaris]

The sky's the limit! I spray painted mine black as I didn't want to pay for the colored pipe, but I'm sure if I had the budget and time I might do the colored pipe. Just measure twice and dry fit everything together before starting gluing. And be absolutely sure to put the union nuts on before you glue! I made that mistake and had to throw away a bunch of expensive ball valves and unions, was furious at myself.

 

[Mele__Reef]

Will do. What brand Check valve are you running?

 

[Ocelaris]

It's a spears union check valve from bulk reef supply.