Urbanek's ADA Trio

OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Glad to see you back with a new build. Excited to see how this one turns out.
Thanks! Appreciate you jumping on board to see where this goes.

Excited to follow along your new project.
Thanks so much!

I'd probably go with a white undershirt, maybe some sneakers but to each their own. Definitely looking forward to the build!
Wear what you want, glad to have you along for the ride.

Welcome back! I was so sorry when the 365 day projected ended, your pictures and commentaries were beautiful and and really enjoyable. Looking forward to following this thread :)
I was sorry to end it early as well. When we decided to move, things progressed quick. Thankfully the house sold quick and I was able to find a new home for the tank.

Glad to see you back and will be following
Roman - Good to hear from you. Hope all is well out your way.

Awesome! Looking forward to this!
Thanks Rev. Not quite the project you have going but it should quench my thirst.

Cool project! Looking forward to following.
Thanks!

Sounds like a cool concept! Any idea approximately how many gallons each tank will be? Will you be keeping different types of livestock in each tank too?
Each tank is only 17g. With rock and sand, I'm thinking they will hold more like 13-15 gallons. I do plan to split the live stock up. I've always wanted to keep some of the cooler inverts but was not able to because of wrasses and other predators.

Can't wait for the progress of this build , I love my ADA 75p and my 60p;)
The ADAs are sweet. I love how clean the edges are. I love that I could order them online and they were shipped that day. No build time = no wait time.

Following... definitely a cool build.
Glad to have you along.

Go for it! Love your builds.
Thanks a kind thing to say. I hope I don't disappoint.

Looking forward to this!!!
Likewise!

I remembered I was freaking out when I was drilling my ADA 75p , but got it done just like you did. Good job keep up the good work , looking forward to this build a lot !!!
Appreciate the encouragement.

Really glad to see you back mate. Your new build is already shaping up to be stunning. Love it.
Good to hear from you. You were always one of the first to reply to my Project 365.

What a great concept...I love builds that start in sketch up....always know it's going to be a meticulous build.
Thanks! It's much easier to pull something off when you have a good plan.

Detailed. Beautiful
Thanks and Thanks!

Wow that's absolutely amazing the detail to the light shelf is amazing , I am loving this build already keep up the amazing work.
Thanks again. Glad you are enjoying it.
 

MRRBW

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Messages
439
Reaction score
153
Location
Montreal, Qc
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Glad to see you are up and running again. I loved your last build and it is still giving me ideas for moving forward as well as motivated me to be more on top of my hobby. Look forward to seeing where you take this concept.
 

Alfrareef

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
823
Reaction score
663
Location
Portugal
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Amazing. Your right about the light stand. It's really a pretty simple idea... (for the skilled ones!!!!) :)
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Wire Management Behind the Drywall
This is my 4th build and in all but my first build I've implemented this solution for getting cables/wires from the light down to the controller/outlets. All you are doing is installing two boxes in the wall which allow you to feed wires into the wall and pull them out in another location. In this case, I'm installing one above the floating shelf and the second behind the aquariums. Home Depot recently came out with a product that makes this task even easier. Here is a link to the product that I used, the CE Tech Flexible Opening. Here are a few photos along with some commentary on this pretty simple task. First of all, you need to know where your vertical studs are as well as if there are any horizontal studs that may impact your ability to drop wires down the wall. When I did this on my 250, I ran into horizontal studs. PITA but not a show stopper.

Here is a photo of the product I referred to above. You will need two of these, one for the top location and another for the bottom location.


The kit comes with a nice template that you can tape to the wall in the location where you will install the box.


Trace the outline of the template on the wall so you know where to cut.


This is the part where you may want to ask your wife to leave the house for a bit. Cutting holes in the drywall may not be something she wants to see in person. A nice drywall saw makes this a very easy task. Before I cut into the wall, I like to say, "Here goes nothing." Here is what your wall will look like when you are done cutting.


Once you have the hole cut, the box slides in the hole and you can tighten it into place with the provided screws. It's best to fish the wires through the wall before you put the boxes and plates into place. A fish tape will make pulling the wires through the wall much easier. Repeat this process for your second hole location and you are good to go. No more wires running down your wall, no more unsightly conduits taped to the wall.
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Glad to see you are up and running again. I loved your last build and it is still giving me ideas for moving forward as well as motivated me to be more on top of my hobby. Look forward to seeing where you take this concept.

Good to hear from you. I always appreciated your comments on my Project 365 thread. I hope I'm able to share some new info on this journal.

Amazing. Your right about the light stand. It's really a pretty simple idea... (for the skilled ones!!!!) :)

Thanks for the view and comment.
 

Maritimer

7500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
7,550
Reaction score
13,621
Location
SouthWestern Connecticut
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Welcome back, Brad!

Even dry, just framed out, this build is clearly going to be something remarkable. <grabs popcorn> I'll never build something this sweet (Trust me... I know the level of my carpentry skills.), so I'll enjoy watching this one come to life!

~Bruce
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Installing the Back Lighting and Uprights
My next two projects on the build are the upright supports that will give the barn wood between the tanks support and back lighting. I failed to take many photos during this portion of the build so I may get a bit wordy as I try to fill in the gap that the photos don't show.

First for the upright supports. Here is a photo before I started adding the supports. You can see that I'm working between the tanks. I went ahead and added the plumbing to this portion of the tank so that I could tell how small the supports needed to be.


With the plumbing in place I cut my boards to fit the height and width that could be accommodated. In order to give some extra strength and rigidity, I used a combination of metals straps and L brackets. You can see one of each in the photo below. I repeated this process until I had an upright support installed on all 4 corners between each tank.


Once the uprights were in position, I could not help but to build the top that sits in between the tanks. This piece can be removed if I need to get to the plumbing or MP10s between the tanks. Here is a teaser pic of the reclaimed wood sitting between the tanks.


The photo below shows a bit more detail on the upright supports but also shows another important addition for the build. If you look back a few entries, you will notice that if you look through the tanks, you can see the pieces of beam that I used to tie the supplemental cabinet to the studs of the house. Obviously, I don't want to look at these through the tanks. My solution was to build a small platform that fits between each tank and the wall and slips down over the top of each piece of beam. Once I built these, I painted them with a high gloss black spray paint. In addition to concealing the pieces of beam, these also provide a spot to attach the back lighting to. You can see the platform if you look closely in the photo below.


With a platform behind each aquarium, it was time to add the back lighting. I used a color changing LED light that I bought from Home Depot. See link for the exact product that I used. I can chose between 15 different colors and dim/brighten to my liking. I think the back lighting adds a very cool effect to the tank. I will use it more in the morning and evening when the tank lights are dim. Here is a photo of what the tanks look like with the back lighting on. Take note that the pieces of beam behind each tank have disappeared.
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Plumbing Details
A few folks have asked for plumbing details, so I'm going to try my best to explain the plumbing details. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask them. While the plumbing of my system is pretty basic, what made this a difficult task was getting the plumbing situation so that the cabinet drawers would still close. Before I get started with an explanation of my plumbing, I wanted to share the glue that I used. I've used a few different brands/types in the past and this is by far my favorite. I like how both the primer and glue are clear. Much better than having the blue/purple stains from the types I've used in the past.


Before I could start plumbing the tanks, I wanted to reinforce the bottom of the cabinet where the sump will sit. The cabinet has a center brace under the bottom shelf and is supported around the outside edge of the cabinet. In order to distribute the weight of the sump to the edges and center brace, I built this small platform with supports that match up with the supports from the base cabinet. In hind sight some photos of the underside of the platform would have been helpful. In order to make more room to work and to fit the sump, I removed the drawers and the center brace. These will go back in once the plumbing is completed.


The plumbing can really be divided in 3 parts, the plumbing in the right cabinet, the plumbing in the left cabinet and the plumbing that is above the cabinet. The photo below shows the plumbing in the right most cabinet. This is obviously where the sump is placed. I purchased a stock Trigger Systems sump with came with just two drains into the sump. In order to accommodate the 3rd tank, I had to drill another hole in the drain section of the sump. It's difficult to see in the photo but this is the top left portion of the sump. Each one of the 3 lines connects to one of the tanks overflow. For the return, I built a manifold, seen on the right of the photo. The return pump feeds the manifold, capable of running 3 reactors, then T's off through a check valve, then a true union ball valve and then splits off to each tank. I believe the photo below shows this level of detail pretty well.


The photo below shows the plumbing detail that is in the left most cabinet. These lines are a continuation of the drains and returns that you see going through the wall in the second photo. These lines go up through the top of the cabinet and then on to the tanks. In the photo, you are seeing 2 returns and 2 drains to up thru the top of the cabinet. The other tank's drain and return can be seen in the previous photo.


The photo below shows the solution that I used as I come up through the cabinet. I terminated all of the hard plumbing with barbed fittings which will then be connected to the tanks with silicon tubing. The lines in the photo below correspond to the lines you see in the previous photo. In order to create nice clean transitions in the top of the cabinet, I used a 2" hole saw and then finished each hole off with hole covers from Home Depot.


The photo below shows the hard plumbing connected to the tanks. The silicon tubing mentioned above connects from these fittings down to the fittings in the previous photo. Hose clamps were used on the silicon tubing. This completed the plumbing and I was ready for a leak test.


Very happy to report that the system had no leaks. Here are a couple photos with water in it. While it's not salt water, the system is wet which is a step in the right direction.






Here are two more photos, one showing the cabinet open with equipment and the other with the door shut hiding the system completely. Note that all the doors and drawers still work perfectly. Excuse the clutter in the cabinet, I have not started with organization yet.


 

Clayton Jessup

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 30, 2016
Messages
1,568
Reaction score
1,193
Location
El Paso Tx
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am blown away by the detail you have put into this build. From the back lighting to the sump and plumbing matching and being spotless all the way through, and on top of still being able to open and close all the doors and drawers ... my mind is blown. Theses tanks and this build has made me consider not upgrading to a 60g cube and just stay with my ADA 75p or buy another one due to some silicon issues on my current 75p. And just to stay with a ADA... sorry a little long. But round of applause on this build Urbanek true a ADA inspiration...
 

Rick.45cal

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
3,693
Reaction score
9,210
Location
Lakeland Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Fantastic build. Love your detail and interest in woodworking.

Your use of the metal straps for those areas between the tanks is ok since it isn't a structural part, but your use of them made me think that I should tell you to look into getting a Festool Domino. Your woodworking/style of building will really flourish with that tool, and it's bonafide hardwood tenon joinery. You can basically build like legos, with no visible joinery. They aren't cheap tools, but they are revolutionary. ;) I LOVE MINE!!!

(I have an aversion to mechanical fasteners, unless they are used to hold hinges or hardware on)
 

MRRBW

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Messages
439
Reaction score
153
Location
Montreal, Qc
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Good to hear from you. I always appreciated your comments on my Project 365 thread. I hope I'm able to share some new info on this journal.

Already going to borrow your light box idea for a 25 lagoon I'm putting together. I also hate seeing cables everywhere and was struggling to find an idea I liked to help hide it all.
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am blown away by the detail you have put into this build. From the back lighting to the sump and plumbing matching and being spotless all the way through, and on top of still being able to open and close all the doors and drawers ... my mind is blown. Theses tanks and this build has made me consider not upgrading to a 60g cube and just stay with my ADA 75p or buy another one due to some silicon issues on my current 75p. And just to stay with a ADA... sorry a little long. But round of applause on this build Urbanek true a ADA inspiration...

Clayton - Thanks for taking the time to view and comment on the build. These are my first ADA tanks but I really like them. The quality of the glass and seams are outstanding. If you don't mind, let me know how the silicon was messed up on your current ADA, if I can avoid a similar issue, I'd like to do that.

I've followed your builds and 365 days a photo of the tank and loved it all. You know your tanks are great when your "likes" are more than 5 times the amount of messages!
Thanks for the kind words. I did not know the comment to like ratio. Thanks for sharing that with me. :)

Fantastic build. Love your detail and interest in woodworking.
Your use of the metal straps for those areas between the tanks is ok since it isn't a structural part, but your use of them made me think that I should tell you to look into getting a Festool Domino. Your woodworking/style of building will really flourish with that tool, and it's bonafide hardwood tenon joinery. You can basically build like legos, with no visible joinery. They aren't cheap tools, but they are revolutionary. ;) I LOVE MINE!!! (I have an aversion to mechanical fasteners, unless they are used to hold hinges or hardware on)

Rick - Thanks for sharing. I really didn't want to use the metal fastners but based on their function vs. the time for another solution as well as the space I had to work with, I found this to be an acceptable solution. I would love to have a Festool Domino, along with all of their other products. I do own a cheap biscuit joiner, not the same but similar. Perhaps one day, when I have some dedicated shop space, I'll add some Festools. Again, thanks for taking the time to view and provide the feedback.

Very clean and inspiring indeed
Thanks so much!

Already going to borrow your light box idea for a 25 lagoon I'm putting together. I also hate seeing cables everywhere and was struggling to find an idea I liked to help hide it all.
Excellent! I'm glad to share and glad to see someone putting the info to use. That is what this forum is all about.
 

Clayton Jessup

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 30, 2016
Messages
1,568
Reaction score
1,193
Location
El Paso Tx
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Urbanek my current 75p I bought used from a local fish store here in El Paso TX. Which is rare to find them here. But it only had one owner prior , but they hade it for over about the 6-7 years so the aquarium has had its time, maybe even older closer to 10yrs. So I going all over the place on a new tank or to stay with a new ADA tank. It two small bubbles on the upper part of the silicon , one on the right front panel and one on the back panel on the upper left corner. I have the table drilled with a glass holes overflow 700gph and I have a 3/4in return line on it. It's currently a FW planted tank. But I am in the process of going reef , but deciding on what to do about the tank.
 

Alfrareef

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
823
Reaction score
663
Location
Portugal
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I know I'm repeating but Congrats!!!
You can't stop amazing me. Love the builds, details and pics (still can't forget the 365).
Keep on the sharing effort and best of luck.

And what are your plans for stocking the tanks?
 
OP
OP
urbaneks

urbaneks

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
730
Reaction score
3,878
Location
Chandler, AZ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Skinning the Supplemental Cabinet and Floating Shelf
The decision on how to finish the project was a difficult one. I love many of the reclaimed woods most of which just did not match with flow of the house. We have lighter wood floors and lots of white in paint colors and cabinets. After careful consideration, I decided to use speckled white reclaimed wood. This wood is pulled from old white barns and fences. While I don't know where this wood spent it's first 100 years, I imagine it was from an old barn like the one pictured below.


I'm fortunate to have a couple locations near me that sells reclaimed wood. With the popularity of these materials I would imagine that most cities have a source near by. I purchased my reclaimed wood from Porter Barn Wood in Phoenix, AZ. A visit to their website is worth the time, they have hundreds of great ideas. Here is a nice closeup of what the speckled white wood looks like. While many people these days are finishing new wood to look like this, I don't think you can duplicate the years of mother nature working her magic.


The process of adding the reclaimed wood is pretty simple once you get the wood planed down to a consistent thicknesses. All of my materials were milled down to about 1/2". With consistent boards to work with, its as simple as cutting pieces length wise to fit and attaching them with a finish nail gun. The hardest part of the process is deciding how much variation you want. In the picture below, I'm having my wife hold some pieces in place as I decide if I like the fit and variation.


Here are a few more photos that I snapped during the process.






 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

  • I currently have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 73 37.6%
  • Not currently, but I have had feather dusters in my tank in the past.

    Votes: 66 34.0%
  • I have not had feather dusters, but I hope to in the future.

    Votes: 25 12.9%
  • I have no plans to have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 28 14.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.0%
Back
Top