UV Sterilizer w/ Flow Sensor Plumbing Question

[Edwin1007]

Hey reefers , thanks for taking your time to look at my post , any input is appreciated .
So this is the issue ..
I have a vertically mounted UV sterilizer that i plan to plumb after my return pump so 100% of my water is sterilized before reaching my DT. The bottom side is going to be the inlet and the top portion the outlet where it will go to my DT . The UV I own takes 1/2 inch fittings and my plumbing is 1 inch which will reduce water flow before getting to the unit/ uv bulb. My question is which side should i mount the flow sensor to get the most accurate reading for me to set the uv and return pump to do what i want it to do based on flow , the top or the bottom or does it not matter ?

Thanks in advance

 

[cdemoss01]

Honeslty unsure gonna bump this for you..

 

[UncommonSense]

The flow sensor can typically go on either inlet, or outlet of the UV… are you sure you want to restrict your plumbing so severely though?

what wattage is the UV sterilizer? What size is the DT? Other plumbing layouts may yield more favorable results, depending on those factors!

 

[Gundy]

I plumbed my flow sensor just after the UV. This way you are reading the flow of the water out of the UV after any flow restrictions and you get a good idea of how many gallons of flow you have. Depending on how much head pressure, elbows and length you have after the UV, you obviously will have slower flow after the flow meter. However for me, I want to know the flow coming immediately out of the UV.

 

[Edwin1007]

The flow sensor can typically go on either inlet, or outlet of the UV… are you sure you want to restrict your plumbing so severely though?

what wattage is the UV sterilizer? What size is the DT? Other plumbing layouts may yield more favorable results, depending on those factors!

The flow sensor can typically go on either inlet, or outlet of the UV… are you sure you want to restrict your plumbing so severely though?

what wattage is the UV sterilizer? What size is the DT? Other plumbing layouts may yield more favorable results, depending on those factors!

The flow sensor can typically go on either inlet, or outlet of the UV… are you sure you want to restrict your plumbing so severely though?

what wattage is the UV sterilizer? What size is the DT? Other plumbing layouts may yield more favorable results, depending on those factors!

I feel like restricting the plumbing is inevitable given the fact the ports are smaller than my plumbing unless someones had success boring out the inlet/oulet ports on the uv , theres space to fit 1 inch plumbing there. Is it really worth it? Water doesnt have to travel too far . The uv is a 25watt aqua sterilizer, Tank is 90 gallons

 

[UncommonSense]

I feel like restricting the plumbing is inevitable given the fact the ports are smaller than my plumbing unless someones had success boring out the inlet/oulet ports on the uv , theres space to fit 1 inch plumbing there. Is it really worth it? Water doesnt have to travel too far . The uv is a 25watt aqua sterilizer, Tank is 90 gallons

Are you dead-set on having a UV sterilizer directly on your return plumbing?

From BRS on your model:
“Suggested flow rate for saltwater aquarium sterilization - 400 GPH”

Assuming you could hit your target DT return flow rate by boring out the restrictive points in your UV sterilizer’s body; you would still not be getting the fluid “dwell time” inside the sterilizer required for effective sterilization…

Your options are:

A: get a larger UV sterilizer which is sized for your target return flow rates.

B: install your 25w unit in a more typical configuration: in the sump; either with an accessory pump, or manifold off your return plumbing, feeding it <=400gph.

 

[Edwin1007]

I plumbed my flow sensor just after the UV. This way you are reading the flow of the water out of the UV after any flow restrictions and you get a good idea of how many gallons of flow you have. Depending on how much head pressure, elbows and length you have after the UV, you obviously will have slower flow after the flow meter. However for me, I want to know the flow coming immediately out of the UV.

Ok so I’d plumb the flow sensor at the top/ oultet this would be my plumbing plan the uv > Flow Sensor > 4 inches of plumbing > 1 90 elbow > 6 inches of pvc > check valve > 38 inches of pvc > 2 45 degree elbows > display tank where it would hit another 90 at the top of my stand pipe then be in the DT

 

[UncommonSense]

Ok so I’d plumb the flow sensor at the top/ oultet this would be my plumbing plan the uv > Flow Sensor > 4 inches of plumbing > 1 90 elbow > 6 inches of pvc > check valve > 38 inches of pvc > 2 45 degree elbows > display tank where it would hit another 90 at the top of my stand pipe then be in the DT

If possible, place your check valve prior to your UV!

It’s a little thing, but it helps mitigate the risk of the UV sterilizer running dry/overheating in the event of a pump failure and/or plumbing leak!

 

[KStatefan]

Plumb the sensor where it fits best with your plumbing the flow will be the same in and out.

 

[Edwin1007]

Are you dead-set on having a UV sterilizer directly on your return plumbing?

From BRS on your model:
“Suggested flow rate for saltwater aquarium sterilization - 400 GPH”

Assuming you could hit your target DT return flow rate by boring out the restrictive points in your UV sterilizer’s body; you would still not be getting the fluid “dwell time” inside the sterilizer required for effective sterilization…

Your options are:

A: get a larger UV sterilizer which is sized for your target return flow rates.

B: install your 25w unit in a more typical configuration: in the sump; either with an accessory pump, or manifold off your return plumbing, feeding it <=400gph.

I read recommended tank turnover for parasite control is 1-1.5 times tank volume per hour which would be 90-135 gph and for algae control is 3 - 4.5 turnover which would be 270 - 405 gph . I have a dc pump capable of 2100 gph and has 14’ of head pressure . My only issue is that reduction before the uv unit

 

[Edwin1007]

If possible, place your check valve prior to your UV!

It’s a little thing, but it helps mitigate the risk of the UV sterilizer running dry/overheating in the event of a pump failure and/or plumbing leak!

Interesting. Thats why i love the forums, i never thought of that. I dont think thats an option because of my setup, a check valve would put the height of the plumbing well above the input on the skimmer. Ill just have the uv connected to the apex and have it turn off once flow lowers to x amount via the flow sensor

 

[UncommonSense]

I read recommended tank turnover for parasite control is 1-1.5 times tank volume per hour which would be 90-135 gph and for algae control is 3 - 4.5 turnover which would be 270 - 405 gph . I have a dc pump capable of 2100 gph and has 14’ of head pressure . My only issue is that reduction before the uv unit

If I’m understanding you correctly; you want to run 90-405gph return flow rate for the entire display tank, on a pump rated for 2100gph…

Assuming this, your tank is on the big side for 400gph turnover rates; a larger sterilizer would still be logical for your goals. Or, at least, a smaller pump!

A smaller sterilizer like this is best suited to being manifolded off plumbing (can return to display, not sump easily this way) or run on a dedicated lower flow pump recirculating in the sump.

 

[Schulks]

I thought a smaller UV would work too but I was informed the manufacturer numbers for 'parasite control' are based on freshwater ich. There are no studies on the amount of exposure required to kill marine ich but I was told the number is a magnitude larger.
I have a 40w Pentair on my IM 50 EXT and I aim for about 200 gph of flow for parasites. With a smaller unit the required dwell time would be unreasonable.

 

[Edwin1007]

If I’m understanding you correctly; you want to run 90-405gph return flow rate for the entire display tank, on a pump rated for 2100gph…

Assuming this, your tank is on the big side for 400gph turnover rates; a larger sterilizer would still be logical for your goals. Or, at least, a smaller pump!

A smaller sterilizer like this is best suited to being manifolded off plumbing (can return to display, not sump easily this way) or run on a dedicated lower flow pump recirculating in the sump.

Its a dc pump that i can turn down . Its capable of creating 210-2100 gph assuming because it has 10 notches (2100 divided by 10)

 

[UncommonSense]

So, you’re dead-set on using this sterilizer on your return line then?

It will only serve to combat water-born algae in this application, and will severely restrict maximum return plumbing flow rates…

 

[Edwin1007]

So, you’re dead-set on using this sterilizer on your return line then?

It will only serve to combat water-born algae in this application, and will severely restrict maximum return plumbing flow rates…

Id much rather have 100% of the water have contact with the uv before the display. Having a pump in the sump and hoping the organism i hope to eliminate gets sucked into it doesnt give me peace of mind .

 

[UncommonSense]

Id much rather have 100% of the water have contact with the uv before the display. Having a pump in the sump and hoping the organism i hope to eliminate gets sucked into it doesnt give me peace of mind .

Well, your only reliable bet is going to be multiple small sterilizers in parallel, or a much larger unit; think 60-100w minimum for that application!

 

[mpatterson42]

I'm surprised there isn't a UV filter that has a built in flow meter. They usually have two separate flow rates (one for algae one for parasites) and it's very common to plumb one into a manifold which could have your return line as well as reactors and other gadgets. So getting the specific flow can be difficult, and may need to be re-checked if you ever change anything.