UV Sterilizer

[jayke]

Hello Reefers.

I have a Red Sea 425 XL 112 gallons total.

Finally decided that I’m going to install a UV sterilizer for the purpose of keeping bacteria and parasites on the lower sides.

I was thinking about getting an Aquatop E18. Wattage is 18 and it endorses that it can handle up to about 300 gallons total. Max flow rate: 700 GPH.

My question is, I cannot find any decent in-depth reviews about this product. Have any of you used this brand or product? Any pros or cons? Would you recommend something else?

Thank you so much for the feed back.

 

[kados]

I don't have any experience with the Aquatop but I've had many UVs over the years from Amazon cheapos, Coralife and Pentair on freshwater, saltwater and a koi pond. If all you're looking to do is clarify water to appear crisp then basically any UV will do the job. I have 3 Pentair UVs now 18W, 25W and 50W. There is noticeable difference in build quality and size. When they say rated for 300g and is not a big UV, then water clarity is what you're likely to get out of it. Sorry for the long reply but years of trial and 1000s of dollars invested in equipment I've learned to buy quality and buy it once. I'd do some research into what your ultimately looking to achieve.. is it water clarity, algae control on glass or disease prevention. It's hard to cover all three so it's more important to focus on what the goal is. Hope this helps.

*Updated - Sorry, I re-read your post. Your looking to achieve bacteria and parasite prevention. I would definitely go with a more reputable unit.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

If your trying to keep parasites at bay at least a 36w is required with proper low flow to match it. I run a very used, somewhat ancient 40w Aqua Uv on my 120 display with just over 200gph going through it.

As said above, buy once. I used to do the cheapo uv's jebao and the like and they do work, but they don't last.

 

[Jeffcb]

Hello Reefers.

I have a Red Sea 425 XL 112 gallons total.

Finally decided that I’m going to install a UV sterilizer for the purpose of keeping bacteria and parasites on the lower sides.

I was thinking about getting an Aquatop E18. Wattage is 18 and it endorses that it can handle up to about 300 gallons total. Max flow rate: 700 GPH.

My question is, I cannot find any decent in-depth reviews about this product. Have any of you used this brand or product? Any pros or cons? Would you recommend something else?

Thank you so much for the feed back.

I would go higher wattage.

 

[jayke]

Sounds good. Thanks everyone!! Was probably thinking about an Ice Cap 90 watts. Any one familiar with the Ice Cap brand? I was thinking Pentair or UV aquaviolet, but I didn’t have space to plumb PVC pipes in my sump. Was thinking about pumping hoses only.

One last question. Is it suitable to run the UV sterilizer faster in the day time for algae control and slower at night time for parasitic control to get the best of both worlds?

 

[Smite]

Sounds good. Thanks everyone!! Was probably thinking about an Ice Cap 90 watts. Any one familiar with the Ice Cap brand? I was thinking Pentair or UV aquaviolet, but I didn’t have space to plumb PVC pipes in my sump. Was thinking about pumping hoses only.

One last question. Is it suitable to run the UV sterilizer faster in the day time for algae control and slower at night time for parasitic control to get the best of both worlds?

Just a heads up, Aqua UV come with 2” slip union bulkheads. You can buy the reducing bushing to your desired plumbing size, then It’s just a slip straight or 90 degree barbed fitting for connection to hoses.
I just picked up a Aqua UV 57w and am impressed with the build quality and design. It’s going to be easy to maintain with the unions. It can also be plumbed vertically or horizontally with unions facing up.

Cool idea on the flow rates if you can have it be automated with a dc pump and controller.

 

[jayke]

Just a heads up, Aqua UV come with 2” slip union bulkheads. You can buy the reducing bushing to your desired plumbing size, then It’s just a slip straight or 90 degree barbed fitting for connection to hoses.
I just picked up a Aqua UV 57w and am impressed with the build quality and design. It’s going to be easy to maintain with the unions. It can also be plumbed vertically or horizontally with unions facing up.

Cool idea on the flow rates if you can have it be automated with a dc pump and controller.

Nice man! I was looking at that one the other day. Can I see a pictures of how you plumbed yours? Did you buy it from BRS?

 

[kados]

Same on the Pentair. The units come with 1.5" bulkheads that can be used with barbs for soft plumbing. Here's a pic of mine under my stand.

 

[Tamberav]

I just set up a Lifeguard 55w - had a 25w Aqua UV before. The Lifeguard is MUCH better quality imo and half the cost. Something we don't see often. It has a timer for when to replace the bulb, you can angle the connections, and you can replace the sleeves inside where as a Aqua UV you can not... so eventually the PVC... even though it is UV resistant will wear thin over enough time. Loving the Lifeguard.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I just set up a Lifeguard 55w - had a 25w Aqua UV before. The Lifeguard is MUCH better quality imo and half the cost. Something we don't see often. It has a timer for when to replace the bulb, you can angle the connections, and you can replace the sleeves inside where as a Aqua UV you can not... so eventually the PVC... even though it is UV resistant will wear thin over enough time. Loving the Lifeguard.

The PVC is my worry with the aqua Uv. I know for a fact the unit I bought it's +-5 years old. I got it for a heck of a deal with a new bulb, so the risk was mitigated. I just pay attention to it, a lot! I'm planning another uv, just haven't done much shopping to see what's the best bang for the buck.

As said above, I ran mine originally on its own jebao DC pump, ended up doubling my main pump and setting up a manifold and measuring flow.

 

[homer1475]

If your trying to keep parasites at bay at least a 36w is required with proper low flow to match it. I run a very used, somewhat ancient 40w Aqua Uv on my 120 display with just over 200gph going through it.

As said above, buy once. I used to do the cheapo uv's jebao and the like and they do work, but they don't last.

And my jebao pond unit(forget the wattage right now) has been running for 3 years with 0 issue. I replace the bulb yearly, but other then that, they are all basically the same bulb, within a PVC tube(the bulb is what does the work, the rest is just housing the bulb). How can anyone think a couple hundred dollar difference is worth it?

I can replace my jebao unit 5 times over before it even comes close to the cost of some of the name brand units.

You guys are only trying to convince yourself the extra money those big name brands charge is worth it.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

And my jebao pond unit(forget the wattage right now) has been running for 3 years with 0 issue. I replace the bulb yearly, but other then that, they are all basically the same bulb, within a PVC tube(the bulb is what does the work, the rest is just housing the bulb). How can anyone think a couple hundred dollar difference is worth it?

I can replace my jebao unit 5 times over before it even comes close to the cost of some of the name brand units.

You guys are only trying to convince yourself the extra money those big name brands charge is worth it.

Nah, used a aquatop and a Jebao for years. Only went to a AquaUv for the price (a new bulb). The quality of the build is better but they all do the same as you said. If I had to, I'd gladly go back. My 36w aquatop is sitting in the spare parts bin.

 

[Smite]

Nice man! I was looking at that one the other day. Can I see a pictures of how you plumbed yours? Did you buy it from BRS?

I had a few things come up today and haven't plumbed it in yet. I bought mine second hand and the P.O. installed 1" elbow barbed fittings. I was planning for 1/2" so I'm going back and forth on stepping down the tubing with a fitting or just ordering new union halves from aqua uv, then reducing to 1/2" for a cleaner install.

 

[Tamberav]

And my jebao pond unit(forget the wattage right now) has been running for 3 years with 0 issue. I replace the bulb yearly, but other then that, they are all basically the same bulb, within a PVC tube(the bulb is what does the work, the rest is just housing the bulb). How can anyone think a couple hundred dollar difference is worth it?

I can replace my jebao unit 5 times over before it even comes close to the cost of some of the name brand units.

You guys are only trying to convince yourself the extra money those big name brands charge is worth it.

I had the jebao first and replaced it. I did not care for the flimsy housing and it sheds black over time. It wasn’t even PVC but a plastic housing but this was maybe 4 years ago so not sure if they changed to PVC. The Lifeguard I have was only like $238 on sale with many more robust features. The jebao in same wattage is $100. I use their pumps but the UV just doesn’t do it for me. Not enough cost savings. I am not sure if Jebao can use Amalgam UV bulbs.

 

[kados]

And my jebao pond unit(forget the wattage right now) has been running for 3 years with 0 issue. I replace the bulb yearly, but other then that, they are all basically the same bulb, within a PVC tube(the bulb is what does the work, the rest is just housing the bulb). How can anyone think a couple hundred dollar difference is worth it?

I can replace my jebao unit 5 times over before it even comes close to the cost of some of the name brand units.

You guys are only trying to convince yourself the extra money those big name brands charge is worth it.

Saying: "How can anyone think a couple hundred dollar difference is worth it?"...can be said for almost anything in this hobby where colorful pieces of rocks can go in the thousands of $$, controllers, wave makers, lighting etc.. I pick and choose which items I feel may be worth spending some extra bucks. I run multiple FOWLR systems so a couple of hundred bucks in my UV choice is worth to me as a buyer since I don't have the majority of the equipment overhead most reefers have in lights & technology. Since you put the question out there, I'll answer it. I'm not trying to convince myself of anything. In this hobby the words great and affordable rarely go hand in hand. I feel there is a price for quality.

 

[homer1475]

Oh i agree with you, but pick and choose what to splurge on. To me a lightbulb in a plastic housing is not worth $300 or more, when the same exact thing is a mere $100.

 

[Viva'sReef]

I added a 25w AquaUV on my 75g this weekend. Easy to plumb in with the 3/4” slip hoses and added it to my main return. Calculated flow of my return and just sized the wattage to my regular flow. Can tweak slightly with a controller and DC return pump but I figured I can just let the controller shut the bulb off for 6 hours a day to allow some bypass time.
Chose this brand because I had the same size 57w AquaUV I ran for 12 years and it was used when I bought it and sold it for a couple hundred after I used it for 12 years. That’s worth a little extra in my book

Despite it being pretty tight under my stand I seemed to fit it in without a lot of struggle after I simplified it a bit. I was hell bent on hanging it but this worked out much better

 

[jayke]

I added a 25w AquaUV on my 75g this weekend. Easy to plumb in with the 3/4” slip hoses and added it to my main return. Calculated flow of my return and just sized the wattage to my regular flow. Can tweak slightly with a controller and DC return pump but I figured I can just let the controller shut the bulb off for 6 hours a day to allow some bypass time.
Chose this brand because I had the same size 57w AquaUV I ran for 12 years and it was used when I bought it and sold it for a couple hundred after I used it for 12 years. That’s worth a little extra in my book

Despite it being pretty tight under my stand I seemed to fit it in without a lot of struggle after I simplified it a bit. I was hell bent on hanging it but this worked out much better

Nice man. It looks good. So when you add it to the return, can you walk me through it a little bit. I’m still a bit lost, since I’m fairly new to adding a sterilizer.

On the UV sterilizer, one side of the tubing connects to the pipes going to the DT, and the other side connects to the actual return pump in the return reservoir section? Am I getting that correct? Therefore it creates that closed loop circulation with the DT and Sump, instead of just cycling and creating a closed loop at the sump?

One more thing… if the UV sterilizer is connected to the piping heading straight to the DT, will slow vs fast contact time with the sterilizer affect the DT circulation overall?

Thanks for clarifying!!! I’m so lost. I really want to set up the sterilizer to help my tank, so I’m willing to learn it and get it right.

 

[Viva'sReef]

Thanks for clarifying!!! I’m so lost. I really want to set up the sterilizer to help my tank, so I’m willing to learn it and get it right.

A lot depends on your goal for the UV. Mine was to battle Ostreopsis Dino's (which has knocked them back quite a lot in only 3 days) If you had thought about future plans to battle Ostreopsis then I would honestly go with a minimum of a 40 watt UV.

What Return pump are you running? Can you calculate the flow into the tank? Or get close too it? You have to account for head pressure on the return pump and what you have the main pump set at (if it's a DC controllable pump) to get an aproximate flow rate. Then size your UV wattage based on that flow through.

Yes, I have one side of the UV hooked up to the return pump. The exit from the UV then goes to your plumbing that returns water to the Display tank. All water from the sump in my case has to go through the UV. That is why I have a bypass timer so that the UV shuts off for 6 hours a day to allow some things to pass through the UV without getting fried by the light.

 

[jayke]

A lot depends on your goal for the UV. Mine was to battle Ostreopsis Dino's (which has knocked them back quite a lot in only 3 days) If you had thought about future plans to battle Ostreopsis then I would honestly go with a minimum of a 40 watt UV.

What Return pump are you running? Can you calculate the flow into the tank? Or get close too it? You have to account for head pressure on the return pump and what you have the main pump set at (if it's a DC controllable pump) to get an aproximate flow rate. Then size your UV wattage based on that flow through.

Yes, I have one side of the UV hooked up to the return pump. The exit from the UV then goes to your plumbing that returns water to the Display tank. All water from the sump in my case has to go through the UV. That is why I have a bypass timer so that the UV shuts off for 6 hours a day to allow some things to pass through the UV without getting fried by the light.

Goal for UV, I wanted to see if I can possibly do parasite control and also water clarity. I was thinking maybe AM I’ll run it faster for water clarity and PM I’ll run it slower for parasite control, to get the best of both worlds maybe, if it’s doable.

I’m currently running a Hydor Seltz D 1600 gph 60 watt return pump. I think once I settled on a UV sterilizer, I’ll plumb the hydor through the UV to the DT.

Any critiques or opinions at this time?