wasp fish, frogfish and leaf fish

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are you able to use copper power to treat ick if they come down with it or is there a better way, Thanks
Not safe for these fish however you can use General Cure or Chloroquine phosphate
 
are you able to use copper power to treat ick if they come down with it or is there a better way, Thanks
For marine ich, effective treatments are basically copper and hyposalinity - chloroquine phosphate can be used for at least some fish species, but Jay doesn't usually recommend it due to specific issues he's seen with it, and I'm not sure how well frogfish, wasp fish, or leaf fish would handle it (maybe @Jay Hemdal knows and would be willing to chime in here?).

Chloroquine phosphate:
I think your dose ended up higher than anticipated, chloroquine breaks down fairly slowly. I’m also not convinced that carbon removes it.

Here is my article on chloroquine. I don’t recommend it much anymore due to ammonia spikes and odd mortality events.

That’s the problem with chloroquine - fish toxicity shows up around 20 ppm, but 15 ppm doesn’t always control active ich infections.

General Cure (or Prazipro and Metroplex separately) treats for flukes and other internal parasites; I haven't heard of any issues with these for frogfish or other predators that I recall, so unless Jay suggests otherwise, I would assume these would be fine to treat with:
Metro is effective against protozoans, not worms. Praziquantel is effective against tapeworms. So - General Cure, containing both, is one product you could consider. However, that doesn’t treat nematodes. Fenbendazole can help with those, but it is toxic to some species and I’ve never used it on lionfish.
General Cure (GC): The problem with GC is that metronidazole and PZQ have different dosing schedules! Metro is 25 mg/l every other day for three treatments and PZQ is 2.2 mg/l every 5 to 8 days for three treatments. The metronidazole component is also NOT reef safe. Do not use this product in oral formulations, as the oral dose for these two medications are different and cannot be combined.

Prazi use:
Prazi (the QT protocol goes into more detail on this):
Dose the amount recommended on the medicine label; you'll want to dose two or three times (three to be safe) with each dose being eight days apart - ensure the tank has plenty of aeration for this treatment.

Metroplex use: the dosage should be on the package, but it's usually recommended to dose into the water (note* metro is not safe for invertebrates, so just use it in water with fish) rather than in food (though if going the food route, making a gelatin feed with it is preferred, and the dose should be 1% by weight):

Regarding copper use for frogfish:
Frogfish are really succeptable to ich, but it is really difficult to see it on them. I've also had difficulty treating frogfish...they handle copper o.k., but perhaps because they have thick mucus, the copper treatments don't work well on them.
Treatment guidelines (copper and hyposalinity):
if you want to treat ich effectively, you need either copper medication (chelated copper like Coppersafe or Copper Power at 2.25-2.5ppm for 30 days after the last ich trophonts disappear is recommended) or hyposalinity (drop your salinity to 1.009 and keep the tank at that salinity for 30 days after the last signs/symptoms of the disease disappear), neither of which are reef-safe. There is no effective, reef-safe treatment for ich at the moment (at least not one that I've heard of).
Copper dosing info:
Like Sharkbait19 said ~1.4 mL per gallon.

Taken from BRS here:

"1.475 mL per gallon = 2.5 ppm"
Edit: To add: each 0.1 ppm would be 0.059 mL/gal.

(Also, for anyone curious with Coppersafe, it's 1.25 mL/gal = 2.5 ppm or 0.05 mL/gal = 0.1 ppm).
Copper (says for ich, but it also works for velvet; Hanna Instruments High Range Copper Colorimeter is the hobby gold standard for monitoring treatment levels of copper) and hyposalinity (works for ich and flukes, but not for velvet); if no visible trophonts, run for 30 days; with chelated copper, there's not a need to ramp up slowly (though some people prefer to raise the levels in two doses to make sure they did the calculations right and don't over or under dose it):

Regarding hyposalinity (the fish should be slowly brought up to regular salinity/S.G. Levels after treatment - the link about it below goes into great detail on using this treatment method):
hyposalinity (though this may or may not be linked to buoyancy issues in frogfish; burping the frogfish may or may not help)
Jay commented on another thread that he's never used hypo on a frogfish before; the frogfish that underwent hypo ended up floating at the surface, but we don't know why (it could have been the hypo, overfeeding, a combination of the two, etc.) - I'd probably give hypo an experimental shot, then try burping the fish if it starts floating; to burp it, you basically gently massage its belly while rotating it 360 degrees in the water (so head up with tail down, then tail up with head down, repeat several times).
 
are you able to use copper power to treat ick if they come down with it or is there a better way, Thanks

All three of those species have a relatively high failure rate for quarantine of any type. What happens is that people get them, they die in a few weeks and they blame the quarantine method (or no method if none was used). The actual issue is the high incidental mortality rate in the fish themselves.....

You need to select these fish very carefully - buy them from a good LFS where you know they are eating and have begun acclimating to captivity.

I'm not a fan of using chloroquine on scorpionfish - I had some bad reactions in that group of fish. I don't recall ever using it on frogfish.

In the end, I would use a well established quarantine tank for these, use copper power at 2 ppm and follow it up with prazi.
 
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