Waterbox 330.7 Upgrade!

[zchauvin]

Looks pretty good. Following also.

Thanks, having a bunch of issues with fish and coral right now. Having to run fallow and losing a couple coral due to temp being higher to speed ich cycle. Fighting unknown issues with fish. Have lost five…. Not great right now.

 

[exnisstech]

Sweet set up with the QT! I have the same 330.7 and love it. Check out my build thread if you have any questions but I see you have it up and running already.

You should add a tank thread badge. I too run a 330.7

Question to anyone who has input, with the heavy fish load - should I use my “extra” sump chamber as refugium or should I run two protein skimmers. I will be feeding 3-5 times a day between nori and frozen. I have since purchased and plan to add more fish. The system is roughly 300g total volume and will have ~ 40 fish. Many being large angels and tangs. I currently have a Royal Exclusive Supermarin 200, but also have the 160 from the UNS R120 I took down. Would macro algae keep phosphates and nitrates in check better than two skimmers? I will be utilizing a media reactor with rowaphos as well as carbon dosing using NoPox.

I'm no help. My 330.7 last test. They've been higher Been like this since starting 3 years ago but I have zero nuisance algae so I pretty much ignore it for the most part. I do run a little GFO when the Hanna ULR PO4 tester is flashing 0.9 but it's never gotten below 0.4

 

[W31Olds]

Z, I have also have a WB Tank. Why did you ditch the sump? I would also consider moving the ATO. I'm running a Tunze Osmolator 3 to a remote ATO in the Basement and it saves a lot of space. Your fish list is impressive. If you need advice about QT and Diagnosing/ Treating your Fish feel free to Ping us. Your Fish are very expensive, and you have many in your current setup. I would also be concerned with cross-contamination to your DT. Here is a shot of my WB 330.8 with 1 lone Morrish Idol.
@Jay Hemdal

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thanks, having a bunch of issues with fish and coral right now. Having to run fallow and losing a couple coral due to temp being higher to speed ich cycle. Fighting unknown issues with fish. Have lost five…. Not great right now.

Just a side note: do NOT raise water temperature for Cryptocaryon, marine ich. That just puts the organism in its sweet spot in terms of viability and spreading.

This is old advice that worked for freshwater ich and got misapplied to marine ich.

 

[zchauvin]

Thanks, having a bunch of issues with fish and coral right now. Having to run fallow and losing a couple coral due to temp being higher to speed ich cycle. Fighting unknown issues with fish. Have lost five…. Not great right now.

Just a side note: do NOT raise water temperature for Cryptocaryon, marine ich. That just puts the organism in its sweet spot in terms of viability and spreading.

This is old advice that worked for freshwater ich and got misapplied to marine ich.

Would it not bring the fallow period down to 45 days vs 60?

 

[zchauvin]

Z, I have also have a WB Tank. Why did you ditch the sump? I would also consider moving the ATO. I'm running a Tunze Osmolator 3 to a remote ATO in the Basement and it saves a lot of space. Your fish list is impressive. If you need advice about QT and Diagnosing/ Treating your Fish feel free to Ping us. Your Fish are very expensive, and you have many in your current setup. I would also be concerned with cross-contamination to your DT. Here is a shot of my WB 330.8 with 1 lone Morrish Idol.
@Jay Hemdal

Did not like the layout or open top. The Luna sump is completely sealed minus the cutout for skimmer cup.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Would it not bring the fallow period down to 45 days vs 60?

Yes, 82+ degrees will hasten the fallow period - sorry, I thought you were trying to treat an active infection on a fish with warmer temps - that doesn’t work.

 

[exnisstech]

I'm running a Tunze Osmolator 3 to a remote ATO in the Basement and it saves a lot of space.

I second this. I did it when I set up my 100g and it worked so well I did the same on the 330.7 so no more pumping water upstairs to fill reservoirs plus more space in the stand

 

[zchauvin]

Would it not bring the fallow period down to 45 days vs 60?

Sorry, yes the reef is completely fallow. I finished the 14 days of copper held at 2.3ppm and have since moved all fish into a 75g. Since moving the fish I have lost the following - Black tang, Powder Blue tang, Blue face koi tang, Goldflake Angel, Tiger Angel, clown fish. No idea what is causing this, I can only assume ammonia or copper toxicity. Several started flashing / fast breathing on 12/13th day in copper. I went to 14 and pulled them all. Some of them looked bad, the tiger angel and Goldflake were seemingly fine, the next day laying on bottom - followed by passing within 24 hrs. No red gills, no splotches, no uronema, nothing. I checked for white fuzz on bodies for possible velvet, nothing. Only a frayed fin here and there. This was over $6,000 of fish gone on a matter of two days.

If I can get through this without losing $10,000 of fish I will be happy. I have chloroquine, prazi, metroplex, kanaplex all on hand but see nothing to even warrant treating. No idea.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Sorry, yes the reef is completely fallow. I finished the 14 days of copper held at 2.3ppm and have since moved all fish into a 75g. Since moving the fish I have lost the following - Black tang, Powder Blue tang, Blue face koi tang, Goldflake Angel, Tiger Angel, clown fish. No idea what is causing this, I can only assume ammonia or copper toxicity. Several started flashing / fast breathing on 12/13th day in copper. I went to 14 and pulled them all. Some of them looked bad, the tiger angel and Goldflake were seemingly fine, the next day laying on bottom - followed by passing within 24 hrs. No red gills, no splotches, no uronema, nothing. I checked for white fuzz on bodies for possible velvet, nothing. Only a frayed fin here and there. This was over $6,000 of fish gone on a matter of two days.

Ah - amine-chelated copper really must be run for 30 days. The 14 days suggestion was from back in the day when ionic copper caused toxicity issues in some fish, so the risk of moving the fish out after 14 days outweighed the risk for keeping the fish in the more sressfull copper.

14 days in amine copper *can* work, but it simply isn't as effective as 30 days.

 

[zchauvin]

Sorry, yes the reef is completely fallow. I finished the 14 days of copper held at 2.3ppm and have since moved all fish into a 75g. Since moving the fish I have lost the following - Black tang, Powder Blue tang, Blue face koi tang, Goldflake Angel, Tiger Angel, clown fish. No idea what is causing this, I can only assume ammonia or copper toxicity. Several started flashing / fast breathing on 12/13th day in copper. I went to 14 and pulled them all. Some of them looked bad, the tiger angel and Goldflake were seemingly fine, the next day laying on bottom - followed by passing within 24 hrs. No red gills, no splotches, no uronema, nothing. I checked for white fuzz on bodies for possible velvet, nothing. Only a frayed fin here and there. This was over $6,000 of fish gone on a matter of two days.

Ah - amine-chelated copper really must be run for 30 days. The 14 days suggestion was from back in the day when ionic copper caused toxicity issues in some fish, so the risk of moving the fish out after 14 days outweighed the risk for keeping the fish in the more sressfull copper.

14 days in amine copper *can* work, but it simply isn't as effective as 30 days.

If velvet or ich appear I will run chloroquine, I will not use copper again. I had to throw out over $1k worth of polyplab bricks due to copper absorption and lost all of these fish. Of which were fine before attempting to use copper. I can only assume that the media I had in sump ( 24 polyplab blocks ) was not enough and *if not copper toxicity* ammonia spike occurred due to copper hindering the bacteria.

 

[W31Olds]

Media and Rocks will absorb Copper, but you can remove Copper bound in Rocks using Muratic Acid. Nasty stuff that needs to be done outside though. I assume it would work on Polylab Bricks as well.
I understand your Logic with the Sump. Mine can splash at the very back, so I need to extend the height.
That and I don't like the Magnetic Doors and will be adding Euro Hinges.

 

[zchauvin]

Media and Rocks will absorb Copper, but you can remove Copper bound in Rocks using Muratic Acid. Nasty stuff that needs to be done outside though. I assume it would work on Polylab Bricks as well.
I understand your Logic with the Sump. Mine can splash at the very back, so I need to extend the height.
That and I don't like the Magnetic Doors and will be adding Euro Hinges.

Yeah, I had to test twice daily and on average was adding 1 tsp copper power daily to keep between 2.20 and 2.35. I ended up throwing all of the polyplab blocks due to absorption. Used all new equipment minus the 2 vortech MP40s. But tank has been at 82° and empty minus inverts for I believe 17 days now. I’ve pretty much decided whatever is left will be left, I’m losing things on both ends fish and coral and seemingly cannot stop it. Whenever even clownfish start dying for no apparent reason it’s normally not a great sign.

 

[W31Olds]

The problem with having that many Fish in one QT Tank is that Pathogens have ideal conditions to multiply. There is also a Bacterial Component along with stress and aggression that makes 45 Day QT challenging. I have 4 Cycled QT Tanks setup downstairs to populate my new DT with a Regal Angel in one. If your losing Clowns and others are Sick maybe the Medics can help. I would hate to lose any of those Fish pictured earlier in your Thread. Especially the Conspic. I always wanted one or a Bandit Angel.