Waterbox Dream turned Nightmare

[jtl]

That sump is way to small that’s the first thing I noticed. And it’s just straight glass no lip on the top. That’s just asking for a flood. Check out trigger sumps

The lip isn't going to prevent an overflow but it can be handy for certain things. To your point. I think sometimes people overlook the necessity or advantage of have a larger sump but sometimes space is a prohibiting factor.

 

[ScottBrew]

I am not understanding why the leaking overflow is causing the sump to overflow unless the durso main drain is too low in the tank in which case the sump is too small for the amount of water when the DT back drains. This is assuming the issue of the return nozzles being to deep in the DT has been addressed. If the durso is the right height, the fact that the actual overflow is not water tight is of no concern. I have built a few tanks and currently have center overflow with two return nozzles. I set my main drain height (and the safety drain) at a level that is equal to or slightly higher than my return nozzles. I still have room in my sump, but my overflow is also water tight so it is immaterial. Here is what I would do take the new tank, clean the inside of the overflow real good with acetone (don't breath it unless you also like to "huff" or whatever it is called). You can then put a new layer of silicone on the seams. It will stick, just not as good as virgin surfaces but since this is not structural like the DT seams it will work just fine. The other thing that puzzles me is why are you getting sand in the overflow pipes? They should be well about your sand bed even if a little comes through the bad seam. Good Luck, sounds like you are overdue.

It's not a durso style drain, it's a bean animal style which has the main drain 6" out so below water level. Main tank is draining into overflow due to bad seal.

 

[jtl]

It's not a durso style drain, it's a bean animal style which has the main drain 6" out so below water level. Main tank is draining into overflow due to bad seal.

Durso/Herbie are only different from the Bean due to a third drain. I have had them all. Point is to bring the drain up far enough.

If the bulkhead is leaking that is an entirely different problem and has not been mentioned.

 

[ScottBrew]

Durso/Herbie are only different from the Bean due to a third drain. I have had them all. Point is to bring the drain up far enough.

If the bulkhead is leaking that is an entirely different problem and has not be mentioned.

I've been following and replied early on to this post.
I was just mentioning that the bean design puts the main drain far enough under water in the weir to not create any vortices and the associated noise. Whole point is a new tank and the 2 replacement tanks at this price point shouldn't require any "fixing". Also shouldn't have to modify the factory drain pipes or turn off the main drain. Even if this were a durso style, it would still drain down far enough to overflow the sump during a power outage due to the tank leaking into the overflow.

 

[jtl]

I've been following and replied early on to this post.
I was just mentioning that the bean design puts the main drain far enough under water in the weir to not create any vortices and the associated noise. Whole point is a new tank and the 2 replacement tanks at this price point shouldn't require any "fixing". Also shouldn't have to modify the factory drain pipes or turn off the main drain. Even if this were a durso style, it would still drain down far enough to overflow the sump during a power outage due to the tank leaking into the overflow.

I get it but why has the leaking bulkhead not been addressed? Derso, Herbie, Bean can all be raised or lowered but a leaking bulkhead needs to be addressed in a different way. Imo.

 

[ScottBrew]

I get it but why has the leaking bulkhead not been addressed? Derso, Herbie, Bean can all be raised or lowered but a leaking bulkhead needs to be addressed in a different way. Imo.

I'm not sure where the post is that said that there was a leaky bulkhead, maybe I missed it. What post number was that discussed?

 

[jtl]

I get it but why has the leaking bulkhead not been addressed? Derso, Herbie, Bean can all be raised or lowered but a leaking bulkhead needs to be addressed in a different way. Imo.

I've been following and replied early on to this post.
I was just mentioning that the bean design puts the main drain far enough under water in the weir to not create any vortices and the associated noise. Whole point is a new tank and the 2 replacement tanks at this price point shouldn't require any "fixing". Also shouldn't have to modify the factory drain pipes or turn off the main drain. Even if this were a durso style, it would still drain down far enough to overflow the sump during a power outage due to the tank leaking into the overflow.

I don't own one of these tanks but if the tank and sump are designed and sized properly the water does NOT have to drain down so far in the DT to overflow the sump. Mine is a Herbie and it will not drain down so far as to cause a flood. A durso is no different, but it is rarely used due to noise issuses resulting from the lack of a full siphon. A Bean, which I have had on two of my tanks is nothing more than a modified Herbie with two safety drains. This stuff is all simple but important. Did the tank and sump come as a pair, if so than one would think they would be set to function properly.

 

[jtl]

I'm not sure where the post is that said that there was a leaky bulkhead, maybe I missed it. What post number was that discussed?

I may have misspoke. What I meant to say is how can sand get into the stand pipe unless perhaps the overflow is filled with sand or the water (and sand) is leaking through a fitting. Even with some missing silicone in a seam I don't see how. I am just trying to picture how this scenario can play out.

 

[Natasha Mcvicker]

I am not understanding why the leaking overflow is causing the sump to overflow unless the durso main drain is too low in the tank in which case the sump is too small for the amount of water when the DT back drains. This is assuming the issue of the return nozzles being to deep in the DT has been addressed. If the durso is the right height, the fact that the actual overflow is not water tight is of no concern. I have built a few tanks and currently have center overflow with two return nozzles. I set my main drain height (and the safety drain) at a level that is equal to or slightly higher than my return nozzles. I still have room in my sump, but my overflow is also water tight so it is immaterial. Here is what I would do take the new tank, clean the inside of the overflow real good with acetone (don't breath it unless you also like to "huff" or whatever it is called). You can then put a new layer of silicone on the seams. It will stick, just not as good as virgin surfaces but since this is not structural like the DT seams it will work just fine. The other thing that puzzles me is why are you getting sand in the overflow pipes? They should be well about your sand bed even if a little comes through the bad seam. Good Luck, sounds like you are overdue.

Even with the sump running with the least amount of water only allows for around 10-15 gallons of water before an overflow begins to happen when the water in the pipes & such are added in. The gap is just inches from the sand bed. Even after the water drops below the overflow openings the water continues to pull through that gap into the overflow chamber (you can see sand sucking into it if it’s close enough) until the water in the display tank is even with the durso. I’ve played with it a little during water changes. It’s a over a gallon of water that ends up being the diffence. The entire tank doesn’t end up on the floor, but plenty to make a huge mess of any flooring. The sand issue it mostly because the placement of the gap happens to be right where a very busy diamond goby lives & loves to make a pile adjacent to it. It’s not huge grains but, silt that that makes it down. There’s quite a silty sand bed growing in the sump. I added extra filtration before the pump to keep it from constantly fogging the tank. There’s a thicker layer in the bottom of my overflow. I keep a small cuc in there....

 

[Natasha Mcvicker]

That sump is way to small that’s the first thing I noticed. And it’s just straight glass no lip on the top. That’s just asking for a flood. Check out trigger sumps

I agree.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Sounds like its' leaking through a fitting. I would create and an overflow at the sump as I have done in the past when the sump gets full, it drains into the basement via hose going through the floor to a tub. Other option is drain to a smaller tank which you can place skimmer in. I realize vacation is around the corner but ultimately would be to reseal the tank draining it and placing contents in a tub while you are addressing the new silicone added -As Long as it does NOT impair your warranty.

Obviously, I would be on the horn with Waterbox immediately for warranty replacement. I hear their customer service is fantastic.

 

[jtl]

Raise your main drain. Go to lowes and get a $.50 coupling in the plumbing dept and stick it on top of the main drain pipe. That will raise it about 2". What size is the pipe?

Why is the water level in the return pump section of the sump so high. It only needs to be just enough to cover the pump and a little more for evaporation. Do you have an ato or do you add water manually?

 

[jtl]

Raise your main drain. Go to lowes and get a $.50 coupling in the plumbing dept and stick it on top of the main drain pipe. That will raise it about 2". What size is the pipe?

Why is the water level in the return pump section of the sump so high. It only needs to be just enough to cover the pump and a little more for evaporation. Do you have an ato or do you add water manually?

 

[Jonreefer]

Not giving waterbox a pass for the sloppy silicone job on the overflow. For the price these companies charge for these systems they should each be inspected. But even if the overflow was leaking in the side from the display into the overflow box. As long as it doesnt leak to the top where the drain is there should be no water leaking into the sump. I feel like some said its probably one of the bulkheads causing it. Which would be much easier to fix then silicone seam. Hopefully you figure it out and its something as easy as some teflon tape or new bulkhead gaskets.

 

[Fudsey]

Can't you turn off the drain using the valve to stop water going into the sump while doing a water change?

 

[Manny Tavan]

Now people are just commenting without reading all the posts...lol

 

[jsbzcmcdaniel]

Sorry you had a bad experience with WB. My experience has been just the opposite. The tank and silicone is perfect and have had zero issues with my 130. Hopefully everything works out.

 

[Manny Tavan]

Any updates?

 

[special-ops-s2k]

Updates?

 

[FlyPenFly]

Definitely never getting a larger WB tank

 

[special-ops-s2k]

Do you still have the 7226?