What makes a "stable" tank

sghera64

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I keep track of my tank through Triton when it comes to trace elements.
I am one of the few you will hear about that does not change water. The only reason IMO to change water is to export buildup of No3 and Po4 which I do not have a problem in. I actualy add these.
An infusion pump.. hmm.. think of it this way. Drip by drip 24 hours a day. Can not get more consistent (stable) than that. About 1 drip every 3 minutes at 1ml an hour

What do you add to increase NO3?
What do you add to increase PO4?
 

kamakazian

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I'm curious what you did to resolve your ph problem? I have a similar issue currently that I've never encountered in previous builds.
 

Mal Cameron

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I believe that a stable tank is only achieved when all tests over a sustained period fall within your desired levels depending on what livestock you have in your tank. My current reef tank of 400 Lt has now been running in a stable situation for 7 years and without a sump or filter media. The key is to make it simple....lots of live rock and water movement with regular monthly water changes of around 30% should be sufficient. Started in the hobby in 1972 and still learning though. Oh yes, and don't overstock or overfeed. Cheers
 
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aaron23

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Stablility in an aquarium = When your tank has Years on its belt without losing any fish or corals. It just becomes such an efficient system of course with maintenance and the parameters are rock solid stable
 

sghera64

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No3= potassium nitrate
Po4= Mono potassium phosphate


Thank you for sharing that. I know a few others dosing KNO3 (root killer, right?), but you are the first person I've seen on the boards dosing PO4.

I'm dosing Ca(NO3)2 for nitrate and Na3PO4 for phosphate. If I don't, these seem to drop below my ability to measure (NO3-Nyos 1 ppm-NO3 limit of detection and PO4-Hanna Checker ULR Phosphorous 1+/-8 ppb l.o.d.).
 

twilliard

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Ya I use spectracide stump remover and MKP. I have always had a heck of a time keeping my numbers up.
I like adding elements that are potassium based :)
 

bif24701

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Thank you for sharing that. I know a few others dosing KNO3 (root killer, right?), but you are the first person I've seen on the boards dosing PO4.

I'm dosing Ca(NO3)2 for nitrate and Na3PO4 for phosphate. If I don't, these seem to drop below my ability to measure (NO3-Nyos 1 ppm-NO3 limit of detection and PO4-Hanna Checker ULR Phosphorous 1+/-8 ppb l.o.d.).

I have the nitrate, I need to get that Phosphate. It's is zero on my Hanna ULR checker. My display is fallow so I can only ghost feed. I add a crazy amount but still not enough.
 

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