What's up with the recent Red Sea Tank failures? 750XXL ? *UPDATE* Design Flaw CONFIRMED by Red Sea !!!
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lpsouth1978
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Did you drill the tank or did Aqueon? If it wasn't Aqueon, you do not have a warranty. ANY drilling voids ALL warranties.
Pntbll687
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Aqueon drilled it. They have a program where you can pick pre set positions of the overflow, or diagram out where you want the holes.
I don't think I'd take a chance and void a warranty drilling it myself
Potatohead
Valuable Member
I am going to knock on wood here but I have an eight year old Aqueon 210 and the seams still look brand new
DylanE
Active Member
That’s good to know. I just looked it up and waterbox only has a limited 2 year warranty. Seems crazy for a 4k purchase. The convenience of having everything laid out for your is great and all, but doesn’t seem like it’s worth the lack of long term support. I’m expecting my next upgrade to be the last for about ten years, and here’s a seemingly big issue popping up with the 750 after only 18-24 months.
eddius_maximus
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Six months for me. On thick concrete slab. Levelled with the leveling feet dry, rechecked and relevelled wet after settling. 6’ level used.
Pntbll687
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How hard is it to re level the tank with water in it?
I don't think I would be able to relevel my tank with it filled, it it would take some steel shims and a lot of swings with a mallet
eddius_maximus
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Impossible I think. After settling, I checked it, drained, tweaked the level to be plumb again, filled it back up and confirmed it was once again perfect after fill.
Mine is on a tile floor against a weight bearing wall. I reinforced the floor under it as well. It was levelled and checked again after I filled it up it up with my leak test water and rechecked again before putting salt water into it. I used the leveling feet to accomplish this. I have had it up a year now.
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FWIW - I took the bull by the horns and actually called RedSea. They are still Shipping the 750 XXL tanks - some were shipped out today. There is no recall.
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PS - I would like someone to comment on this photo - which I really don't understand - from one of the Facebook groups - How could this physically happen (i.e. that wave in the 3 inch plywood) without any forward/rearward displacement). IMHO - It looks altered. BTW - just so everyone is clear I think that its possible that the middle piece causes a problem with this stand - if the area under the tank at that point (either because of adjustment of the screws - or something else) causes the middle piece to be higher. For example - one problem - there are also adjustment screws in the back - if your floor is not completely level - in the back (I had this problem) - first - you cant see (any possible) deflection when water is in the tank - second - you cant adequately adjust it if (for example) that 'screw' is a bit higher. I adjusted both of mine when I installed my tank to be slightly 'lower' at those point (I'm talking millimeters) so maybe thats why I'm not seeing a problem. Here is the picture in question - it defies physics and carpentry - and looks 'wrong' to me - Nothing would make a 3 inch piece of wood deflect the same as the 1/2 or 3/4 piece above it (that I can think of). The only possibility I can think of is an extreme amount of deflection - to the front or the back (of the wide piece of wood) - thats not apparent in this picture.
Note - I said - I hated physics and I'm not a carpenter - I would like replies to suggest whether what I'm saying is correct or not.
Note - I said - I hated physics and I'm not a carpenter - I would like replies to suggest whether what I'm saying is correct or not.
Mike.P
Well-Known Member
PS - I would like someone to comment on this photo - which I really don't understand - from one of the Facebook groups - How could this physically happen (i.e. that wave in the 3 inch plywood) without any forward/rearward displacement). IMHO - It looks altered. BTW - just so everyone is clear I think that its possible that the middle piece causes a problem with this stand - if the area under the tank at that point (either because of adjustment of the screws - or something else) causes the middle piece to be higher. For example - one problem - there are also adjustment screws in the back - if your floor is not completely level - in the back (I had this problem) - first - you cant see (any possible) deflection when water is in the tank - second - you cant adequately adjust it if (for example) that 'screw' is a bit higher. I adjusted both of mine when I installed my tank to be slightly 'lower' at those point (I'm talking millimeters) so maybe thats why I'm not seeing a problem. Here is the picture in question - it defies physics and carpentry - and looks 'wrong' to me - Nothing would make a 3 inch piece of wood deflect the same as the 1/2 or 3/4 piece above it (that I can think of). The only possibility I can think of is an extreme amount of deflection - to the front or the back (of the wide piece of wood) - thats not apparent in this picture.
Note - I said - I hated physics and I'm not a carpenter - I would like replies to suggest whether what I'm saying is correct or not.
That piece is three inches tall, but its load bearing surface is still only 3/4 or one inch, or however thick it is. I could see that kind of bend happening, because it's an enormous amount of weight; if it's not evenly distributed, and if there's a pressure point that forms, it's certainly possible.
The photo doesn't look doctored to me, but I am admittedly not even remotely an expert in photography, or Photo Shop.
@MnFish1
I don't think the pic was altered.
I also don't think that's a 3 inch thick piece of plywood or melamine, but a board on edge. The 3/4 plywood sits on top of that board. I would call it the front support rail.
To me this looks like from the start that board may not have been properly milled straight. I speak from experience here keep reading.
Clearly the cabinet door is open and I doubt there is a post or support in the way of the opening. So (IMO) there is not a support post for the board (Top support rail) to warp over so to speak, but I also don't know how the stand is built.
The wood itself may not have been properly dried, before it was milled allowing it to move.
There could be a knot at that point in the board that over time has expanded.
That particular board could have a natural twist that over time is working its way out.
The 3/4 plywood (Or whatever RS uses) on top will naturally follow the surface it sits upon, it has no structural integrity in that direction.
Take a piece of paper, holding it flat as if it were on your desk, pick it up on two corners horizontally it will bend, turn it 90 degrees vertically it will be straight.
I would recommend taking a picture with a straight edge parallel with the length of the board and that will reveal more of the story here.
So from what the picture reveals and DOES NOT reveal it is hard to say where the problem started to me.
Defect in manufacturing maybe,
improper installation maybe,
Floor it sits on not strong enough to handle the weight maybe?
Yes IMO its a problem, break a tank problem I guess time will tell who knows.
I have been in LFS that the stands were obviously put together out of twist wood and nails, but have clearly survived years without a failure.
My first reef tank I started this past February a 150G I bought used. it was two years old and came on a 2 inch square welded tube steel stand, it leaked out of a bottom seam in May.
Bought a new 150 from my LFS and built its stand out of kiln dried wood, got it all together and though I measured twice cut once in the end nothing was level or square in the end. So it is now a work bench, you can see its skeleton in the background first pic on the right.
I had to build another, using materials from a better source.
Still I had to make a jig and cut every top and bottom rail so they were straight and true as an arrow. It now is perfectly level and square. I wish my floor was LoL.
I coated it with water seal, so over time, the spilled and dripped aquarium water will hopefully not penetraite and decay the wood over time.
Sanded down and drying after the water sealing process.
As straight and flat as I am capable of.
In its final place in my office, had to use plastic shims on the far end to make it level.
Used plastic shims as they will not decay when they get wet like cedar wood would.
I don't think the pic was altered.
I also don't think that's a 3 inch thick piece of plywood or melamine, but a board on edge. The 3/4 plywood sits on top of that board. I would call it the front support rail.
To me this looks like from the start that board may not have been properly milled straight. I speak from experience here keep reading.
Clearly the cabinet door is open and I doubt there is a post or support in the way of the opening. So (IMO) there is not a support post for the board (Top support rail) to warp over so to speak, but I also don't know how the stand is built.
The wood itself may not have been properly dried, before it was milled allowing it to move.
There could be a knot at that point in the board that over time has expanded.
That particular board could have a natural twist that over time is working its way out.
The 3/4 plywood (Or whatever RS uses) on top will naturally follow the surface it sits upon, it has no structural integrity in that direction.
Take a piece of paper, holding it flat as if it were on your desk, pick it up on two corners horizontally it will bend, turn it 90 degrees vertically it will be straight.
I would recommend taking a picture with a straight edge parallel with the length of the board and that will reveal more of the story here.
So from what the picture reveals and DOES NOT reveal it is hard to say where the problem started to me.
Defect in manufacturing maybe,
improper installation maybe,
Floor it sits on not strong enough to handle the weight maybe?
Yes IMO its a problem, break a tank problem I guess time will tell who knows.
I have been in LFS that the stands were obviously put together out of twist wood and nails, but have clearly survived years without a failure.
My first reef tank I started this past February a 150G I bought used. it was two years old and came on a 2 inch square welded tube steel stand, it leaked out of a bottom seam in May.
Bought a new 150 from my LFS and built its stand out of kiln dried wood, got it all together and though I measured twice cut once in the end nothing was level or square in the end. So it is now a work bench, you can see its skeleton in the background first pic on the right.
I had to build another, using materials from a better source.
Still I had to make a jig and cut every top and bottom rail so they were straight and true as an arrow. It now is perfectly level and square. I wish my floor was LoL.
I coated it with water seal, so over time, the spilled and dripped aquarium water will hopefully not penetraite and decay the wood over time.
Sanded down and drying after the water sealing process.
As straight and flat as I am capable of.
In its final place in my office, had to use plastic shims on the far end to make it level.
Used plastic shims as they will not decay when they get wet like cedar wood would.
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Phil D.
Valuable Member
I have a E-260 and no problems. The top of the stand sits on top of the side/back pieces, so no worries. My old JBJ 28g stand used to wobble a bit when I cleaned the glass, always worried me if it was gonna collapse.
