What's your acclimation procedure for new fish?

Daniel@R2R

Living the Reef Life
View Badges
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
40,425
Reaction score
67,528
Location
Fontana, California
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
From ship to drip and maybe even a dip (I know it's cheesy...I couldn't help myself... :nerd: ), what's your procedure with new fish? Do you Qt? Do you use a social acclimation box? Give us the details from unboxing to releasing in the DT. :)
 

tyler1503

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
2,579
Reaction score
532
Location
Bega, NSW, Australia
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
A lot of my fish are caught directly from the ocean, so they get a 3hr drip acclimation and a half hour temp acclimation and set free in the display. LFS bought fish get a 1.5 hr drip acclimation and a half hour temp acclimation and set free.
With my new build I'm wanting to set a QT too.
I'm going to try some fish that aren't typically compatible but can work on occasion, so I'll have an acclimation box in the tank then too :)
 

saltyhog

blowing bubbles somewhere
View Badges
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
9,414
Reaction score
15,936
Location
Conway, Arkansas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
For easy fish I set up my tank transfer tanks to match the salinity of the seller. Float the bag for 15 min. Open bag and test salinity to veryify match. In to 1st TT tank. After 12 days of TT the fish goes in to a cycled QT for 2 rounds of Prazipro and observation for another 3 weeks or so. If everything is cool he's then in to the DT via acclimation box.

For more difficult fish they stay in another cycled QT till eating will then procede with TT and so on.
 

760mason

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
263
Reaction score
12
Location
Carlsbad. California
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
My lfs uses same water as me. As long as temp is the same I go right from the bag to the tank. No losses yet. If there is a huge temp differential (for instance I buy a fish, then go to the store and maybe leave it in my car for a few hours) I will do an one or two hour drip acclimation. other than that they go straight into the tank.

Although the appropriate answer to your question is place all new additions to a quarantine tank.
 

Squishie89

Glub Glub
View Badges
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
3,080
Reaction score
243
Location
Rockville, MD
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If it is pre-quarantined; float bag in display tank for 15 minutes, pour fish and water into a bucket, drip acclimate for ~30-60 minutes, turn off pumps, put into display.
Not quarantined; float bag in quarantine tank, pour fish and water into a bucket, drip acclimate for ~30-60 minutes, perform dips with Rapid Fish Quarantine Dip| Blue Life Safety Stop , put into quarantine tank.
 

EZMAC114

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
532
Reaction score
31
Location
Lake Mary, FL
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Drip until the temperature is at least 1 degree away and the salinity is at least .02 away and then drop in the fish and turn off the lights. My way might not be the best but I've never had a problem
 
OP
OP
Daniel@R2R

Daniel@R2R

Living the Reef Life
View Badges
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
40,425
Reaction score
67,528
Location
Fontana, California
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
I'll share my method.

I start by floating to bring temp in line, then drip for at least an hour (usually 2 or 3). All new fish go into a 30 gallon QT setup that is filled with water from the DT and has LR from my sump for observation and acclimation to my feeding etc. If after a month there are no issues, then they go to the DT. If there is any sign of illness, then the QT is converted into a hospital tank for treatment (To convert QT to hospital tank, I replace LR with PVC before medicating, and then cleanse and dry the LR before adding it back to the sump)...once there are no signs of illness for a month, the new fish goes to DT.

I do use a social acclimation box for almost all additions (especially wrasses). I figure I want to see any aggression before releasing the new fish into the 180...it's no fun to try and remove a fish from a 180... ;)
 

choff

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Messages
350
Reaction score
90
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'll share my method.

I start by floating to bring temp in line, then drip for at least an hour (usually 2 or 3). All new fish go into a 30 gallon QT setup that is filled with water from the DT and has LR from my sump for observation and acclimation to my feeding etc. If after a month there are no issues, then they go to the DT. If there is any sign of illness, then the QT is converted into a hospital tank for treatment (To convert QT to hospital tank, I replace LR with PVC before medicating, and then cleanse and dry the LR before adding it back to the sump)...once there are no signs of illness for a month, the new fish goes to DT.

I do use a social acclimation box for almost all additions (especially wrasses). I figure I want to see any aggression before releasing the new fish into the 180...it's no fun to try and remove a fish from a 180... ;)
How long do you leave them in the social acclimation box?

Is it just a clear plexi container with nothing in it that is at the top of the aquarium? If so, do you find this stresses the fish because they are out in the open?

I'm intrigued by the idea.
 

fragman2

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 13, 2009
Messages
335
Reaction score
91
Location
Seattle Area
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
This is a complicated issue. You need to consider introduction of paracites, both to your existing fish and to your suseptable new additions. The ability for your new fish to feed successfully in a competitive environment. The pecking order of your new fish within the existing community of fish. Each species and sometimes individual fish are different. For example: With mandarin gobies, equalize the water parameters and through them in. The exception would be if the tank already has one or more Mandarins then you would need to consider tank size, sex of the fish, size of the fish etc…

The social acclimation box is a must! I use a large tarantula cage with extra holes drilled into it. Magnets hold it to the front of the glass. I have 5 large tangs in a 210 gallon tank that don't take kindly to newcomers. I have successfully added new tangs, a Racoon butterly, anthias etc… by keeping them first in this chamber for a week or so. Five Anthias spent 4 months in a 30 gallon breeder tank almost by themselves until they readily accepted the various prepared foods that I give my fish. This species without this level of conditioning would not have made the transition to the main tank.

I hope this helps!
 
OP
OP
Daniel@R2R

Daniel@R2R

Living the Reef Life
View Badges
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
40,425
Reaction score
67,528
Location
Fontana, California
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
How long do you leave them in the social acclimation box?

Is it just a clear plexi container with nothing in it that is at the top of the aquarium? If so, do you find this stresses the fish because they are out in the open?

I'm intrigued by the idea.

I usually want to make sure that if I am adding the fish in with others of similar body shape that they have seen each other (their reaction to each other let's me know if there is likely to be aggression). Usually I'll leave them there for 1-2 days.

I use a large-ish transparent water dispenser that I drilled holes in. It's 2.5 gallons in size. I do make sure there is some PVC or something for the fish to hide in so he can take a rest from being exposed.
 

clownfitch

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
390
Reaction score
28
Location
Fishing
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I drip acclimate until the salinity is matched. No less than 30 minutes if the salinity is close but no more than 1.5 hours. Then get my hand wet and scoop the fish out and into the DT. I used to do the LFS method and throw in a little DT water every 15 minutes for an hour but lost several fish (may not have anything to do with the acclimation) so I have been drip acclimating for the last year or so and have had good success.
 

Nvizn

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
29
Reaction score
1
Location
Newport News, VA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I QT & utilize acclimation boxes, when transitioning to the DT. Both, are extremely important for the success of new livestock. Check out a few of my QT videos.

[video=youtube;Op50O-rjINc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op50O-rjINc&list=UUisBXcbyaJQjp88nkzwsy5Q[/video]

[video=youtube;0lOvhsj22N0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lOvhsj22N0&list=UUisBXcbyaJQjp88nkzwsy5Q[/video]

[video=youtube;P3txSlez5MQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3txSlez5MQ&list=UUisBXcbyaJQjp88nkzwsy5Q[/video]
 

Oscaror

Back In It
View Badges
Joined
Aug 13, 2014
Messages
3,651
Reaction score
4,599
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
My lfs uses same water as me. As long as temp is the same I go right from the bag to the tank. No losses yet. If there is a huge temp differential (for instance I buy a fish, then go to the store and maybe leave it in my car for a few hours) I will do an one or two hour drip acclimation. other than that they go straight into the tank.

Although the appropriate answer to your question is place all new additions to a quarantine tank.
It's not just temperature, it's also parameters. Seeing how you haven't gotten any losses this way, I'll assume you haven't gotten a tang. If you do, drip it, for sure.
 

LetItReef

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
2,922
Reaction score
1,433
Location
San Diego, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Float the bag for 15 mins, open the bag, discard half of the water then add water from the tank every 15 mins until reaches 1 hour then add the fish to tank, try not to add as much water from the bag.
 

guidedbyechoes

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
171
Reaction score
30
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I drip acclimate for a min of half an hour if the SG is exactly the same. If not I do half an hour for every decimal point of difference so if the tank water is 1.025 and the bag water is 1.023 thats an hour and a half. I recommend using something opaque with a lid so the fish isnt frightened during the whole process. I skip floating the bag because I usually am during the daylight hours when I add a new fish and the lights blasting a fish that can't hide is stressful. After getting burned twice I always QT every fish I add. bare bottom qt with pvc for everything but burrowing wrasse(for them I add containers of sand). The sand is discarded. I use nets instead of my hands because I worry about injuring the fish or dropping it on the floor since I am famously ungraceful.

For inverts I double the amount of time.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

DO YOU THINK TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENTS ARE MORE HELPFUL OR HURTFUL TO REEFING?

  • More helpful.

    Votes: 28 37.3%
  • More hurtful.

    Votes: 3 4.0%
  • I think it depends mostly on the technology.

    Votes: 32 42.7%
  • I think it dependsmostly on the reefer behind the technology.

    Votes: 24 32.0%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new