Which hanna phosphate checker?

infinite0180

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 25, 2018
Messages
1,821
Reaction score
1,096
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Thank you for the conversion chart, this is a very good verification for me!
I used to have the 774, which measures Phosphate in ppm and never detected *anything*. I thought it was broken, so diluted some TSP and measured that--yup, the 774 works; I was just too low. When I bought the 736, which measures Phosphorus in ppb I was able to see what's going on.

The (rough) conversion I use to get from ppb of P to ppm of PO4 is move the decimal 3 places to the left, then multiply by 3; that seems to sorta match the real numbers you provided.

I think your confusing the 774 which is a brand new version that is ULR with the 713...
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you for the conversion chart, this is a very good verification for me!
I used to have the 774, which measures Phosphate in ppm and never detected *anything*. I thought it was broken, so diluted some TSP and measured that--yup, the 774 works; I was just too low. When I bought the 736, which measures Phosphorus in ppb I was able to see what's going on.

The (rough) conversion I use to get from ppb of P to ppm of PO4 is move the decimal 3 places to the left, then multiply by 3; that seems to sorta match the real numbers you provided.

Welcome to R2R! ;Bookworm I assume you meant to say you had the previous model (713), as the 774 is newly released, but I understood what you meant. Glad you found the conversion chart helpful! ;)
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It isn't bad. It works just as well as the others with the exception of the range and precision ( ±0.04 ppm). I accidentally bought this one and while the precision isn't there it gives a consistent reading every time. I use the value / reading as a guide and can easily see trends when looking at the results on paper or via the logs in Apex.

I'm all for buying the correct one first - save yourself 50 bucks. I'm just not giving them another 50 when the 713 works perfectly fine for me :)

If you’re not in the camp of folks that insists on keeping their phosphates below .03 I don’t see a reason to switch either. Whatever works for you. But I agree, for those buying their first one, it’s best to go with one of the ULR models. :)
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
My gut says get the 774 because its the newest model but people have been using the 736 forever with great results...

Honestly, like I said, you can’t go wrong either way. And I’m confident they’re both equally reliable. Hanna is a reputable company and the technology is the same, it’s just a colorimeter with different programming. With that said, I believe my difference in margin of error calculations is correct but I’m still curious about the suggestion that was made earlier that they have the same margin of error.

There's an awful lot of misinformation here, the 774 has the same margin of error as the 736.

@wesman42 do you mind please elaborating on your comment for us? If you have additional information that would be useful it’d be much appreciated.
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Update:

I just spoke with Kevin, @Hanna Instruments Marine products head, and he confirmed what I had previously stated. There are a couple of additional changes with the 774, such as the ppb to ppm conversion, the longer timer before time out, and an increased detection window for the solutions (although he said it’s still advised to follow the 2 minutes of shaking and 3 minutes of letting it sit before developing a reading). He also confirmed that for those keeping an ultra-low nutrient system, the 736 is .005 ppm more accurate and that is why the 736 model is not being phased out.

He said he would chime in on this thread in a couple days as well to clear up anything that might need clarification. Hope this is helpful to @infinite0180 and anyone else who is trying to make the decision. :)
 

infinite0180

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 25, 2018
Messages
1,821
Reaction score
1,096
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Update:

I just spoke with Kevin, @Hanna Instruments Marine products head, and he confirmed what I had previously stated. There are a couple of additional changes with the 774, such as the ppb to ppm conversion, the longer timer before time out, and an increased detection window for the solutions (although he said it’s still advised to follow the 2 minutes of shaking and 3 minutes of letting it sit before developing a reading). He also confirmed that for those keeping an ultra-low nutrient system, the 736 is .005 ppm more accurate and that is why the 736 model is not being phased out.

He said he would chime in on this thread in a couple days as well to clear up anything that might need clarification. Hope this is helpful to @infinite0180 and anyone else who is trying to make the decision. :)

Hahah awesome! Thanks for helping out!
 

clm65

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 22, 2019
Messages
684
Reaction score
770
Location
Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If you’re not in the camp of folks that insists on keeping their phosphates below .03 I don’t see a reason to switch either. Whatever works for you. But I agree, for those buying their first one, it’s best to go with one of the ULR models. :)

Well now, I'm gonna have to kinda disagree here...a few months back I decided to transition from fish only to mixed reef, so it was time to pay better attention to my parameters. It sounded like ULR was the way to go, so I purchased a 736. That's when I found out that the range of the 736 was much too small for my existing high phosphate levels, so all the meter displayed was a blinking upper limit. So I went out and bought a 713 so that I could actually measure what I have and monitor the phosphate levels as I hopefully reduce them. So I guess the moral of my story is, if you are going to be buying your first Hanna phosphate meter, make sure you get one that can actually measure your phosphate level! :)
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Well now, I'm gonna have to kinda disagree here...a few months back I decided to transition from fish only to mixed reef, so it was time to pay better attention to my parameters. It sounded like ULR was the way to go, so I purchased a 736. That's when I found out that the range of the 736 was much too small for my existing high phosphate levels, so all the meter displayed was a blinking upper limit. So I went out and bought a 713 so that I could actually measure what I have and monitor the phosphate levels as I hopefully reduce them. So I guess the moral of my story is, if you are going to be buying your first Hanna phosphate meter, make sure you get one that can actually measure your phosphate level! :)

Thank you for adding this. That’s a good point. I just figured if you’re over the phosphate level that the ULR checkers are capable of testing, that’s so extremely high that regardless of what it is, you should be getting down to the bottom of it and reducing them until it’s reading on the ULR checkers because the high range of the ULR checkers is still very high. That being said, it’s still good to know where you’re at and bring them down accordingly so depending on your situation you may find the 713 to be more useful initially. ;)
 

clm65

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 22, 2019
Messages
684
Reaction score
770
Location
Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you for adding this. That’s a good point. I just figured if you’re over the phosphate level that the ULR checkers are capable of testing, that’s so extremely high that regardless of what it is, you should be getting down to the bottom of it and reducing them until it’s reading on the ULR checkers because the high range of the ULR checkers is still very high. That being said, it’s still good to know where you’re at and bring them down accordingly so depending on your situation you may find the 713 to be more useful initially. ;)

Being able to someday use my 736 is on my bucket list :(.
 

ShanesClowns

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 5, 2019
Messages
57
Reaction score
34
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Was going to buy the 736 until I went on you tube and watched the ease of use and accuracy of the 774 , it also has the longer on time , which was issues with the older models , I have the 774 and it is great , and very accurate and super easy to use.

There is a reason why they came out with the new one and it works great, no conversion just results.

My 2 cents good luck

Wish they would come out with a PH , magnesium and nitrate checker , tired of looking at colors.
 
OP
OP
w2inc

w2inc

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
411
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Is it? I used these accuracy +/- postings off Hanna’s website and the conversion chart I’ve posted above.

HI-736:
81E22F77-8FFA-4F16-A230-FBA88573CE4A.png


HI-774:
E9DC5478-8E50-4D9A-BB73-98534B61B340.png


Using the posted accuracy numbers from Hanna and the above conversion chart, the HI-774 has a margin of error of .02 ppm, while the margin of error of +/-5 ppb with the HI-736 is between .014-.016 ppm (assuming the conversion chart is accurate).

Am I missing something here?
It did get me thinking and allowed me to waste a good part of my day doing math, but in the end, I just don't know what "+-.o2 ppm +-5%" means. Are we looking at a 20 point scale and by adding .02 we will compensate the ratio by subtracting 5%? Is it +-.02 ppm (the reading) and then +-5% of that result?.

It cant be either or except in one situation. The +-.02 or +-5% is only correct if you have a reading of .4 (since 5% of .4 is .02).

If +- 5% is always true then, +-.02 ppm is not always true. Or the opposite if +-.02 is true, then +-5% can not always be true.

If your reading was .06, and you use +-5% is +-.003. You can have .057 ppm or .o63 ppm, but you don't get to have+-2 which is .08 ppm and .04 ppm at the same time.

Does anyone know things? I have a Bachelors in Fine Arts. Math has always been weak spot for me. I was feeling pretty smart running figures this morning until I realized that I didn't understand the equation.
 

LilElroyJetson

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
1,153
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It did get me thinking and allowed me to waste a good part of my day doing math, but in the end, I just don't know what "+-.o2 ppm +-5%" means. Are we looking at a 20 point scale and by adding .02 we will compensate the ratio by subtracting 5%? Is it +-.02 ppm (the reading) and then +-5% of that result?.

It cant be either or except in one situation. The +-.02 or +-5% is only correct if you have a reading of .4 (since 5% of .4 is .02).

If +- 5% is always true then, +-.02 ppm is not always true. Or the opposite if +-.02 is true, then +-5% can not always be true.

If your reading was .06, and you use +-5% is +-.003. You can have .057 ppm or .o63 ppm, but you don't get to have+-2 which is .08 ppm and .04 ppm at the same time.

Does anyone know things? I have a Bachelors in Fine Arts. Math has always been weak spot for me. I was feeling pretty smart running figures this morning until I realized that I didn't understand the equation.

I briefly discussed the +/-5% (which I believe is added to the first posted +/-) with Kevin but I prefer to let him explain it when he chimes in to make sure we get accurate info regarding that. He did mention that it was almost negligible but I’ll let him break it down.
 
OP
OP
w2inc

w2inc

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
411
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Update:

I just spoke with Kevin, @Hanna Instruments Marine products head, and he confirmed what I had previously stated. There are a couple of additional changes with the 774, such as the ppb to ppm conversion, the longer timer before time out, and an increased detection window for the solutions (although he said it’s still advised to follow the 2 minutes of shaking and 3 minutes of letting it sit before developing a reading). He also confirmed that for those keeping an ultra-low nutrient system, the 736 is .005 ppm more accurate and that is why the 736 model is not being phased out.

He said he would chime in on this thread in a couple days as well to clear up anything that might need clarification. Hope this is helpful to @infinite0180 and anyone else who is trying to make the decision. :)
I don't know how I overlooked that post from @infinite0180? Thanks for calling him Kevin! I would have got so much more done today if I had read it! I am still surprised that I decided to call BRS and ask them the difference rather than calling Hanna.

As far as the +-5%, I just got off the phone with a chemist that knew things. He said to:
Get the reading. Multiply by .05. Add that value to your +-.02 correction number and now you have the new adjusted correction number. Then +- the new adjusted correction number to the original reading. This gives your adjusted high and low possibilities.

I am excited to get the details from the rep. My chemist friend couldn't figure out how they could use the same 535nm light on both devices. It would be great to find out how the two solutions differ so I can let him know.
 

bluprntguy

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
877
Reaction score
1,316
Location
San Francisco
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The 736 is not that difficult to adjust to. Most people are shooting for 10 ppb (0.03 ppm) and want no higher than 30 ppb (approx 0.1 ppm). Those numbers become second nature after just a few uses.
 
OP
OP
w2inc

w2inc

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
411
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The 736 is not that difficult to adjust to. Most people are shooting for 10 ppb (0.03 ppm) and want no higher than 30 ppb (approx 0.1 ppm). Those numbers become second nature after just a few uses.
Thanks for chiming in. I really appreciate all the people who have taken time to share their experience. I agree that working in different units is just not that big of a deal. I would probably be happy with either one.

If you had to buy a new one today and it turns out that after accounting for the phosphorus to phosphate conversion they are both equally accurate. Would you want the new one that reads in common units and could have some kind of improvements on it?
 
Back
Top