While tail bristle tooth

[bshake]

Hey reef buddies
2 days ago I noticed my white tail’s body looking a little weird but it was mostly his fins and tail were cloudy with some spots. His body Looked like it was covered in tiny red blotches or small wounds. Lately he’s been sleeping in a very tight area so I didn’t know if it was because of that…. Also he’s been in my fire shrimps cave and the fire shrimp goes on top of him not sure to do what or if the shrimp is the cause of the red spots maybe from picking. I put in a fish trap and of course couldn’t catch it. Eventually after an hour I caught him with a net. He’s pretty active eating well, munching on nori and picking off the glass. Under white light his body seems okay, I haven’t noticed any large ich like spots on him but under blue light you can see some spots on him that more consistent with velvet since they’re much smaller dusting like. I have 4 other tangs in the tank with one a single spot on them 1 hippo, 1 purple, 1 yellow and 1 scopes. None of the wrasse of others seem to be infected.

 

[bshake]

 

[vetteguy53081]

Youve taken a good first step and quarantined it. Are you treating tank with anything? Can also be stress spots which they do display

 

[bshake]

Youve taken a good first step and quarantined it. Are you treating tank with anything? Can also be stress spots which they do display

He’s still in the DT but I did give him a 30 min H2o2 and placed him in an acclimation box. I’ll have to setup a new QT. Since I don’t know if what he has is wounds or velvet. Wouldn’t he have died already if it’s velvet?

 

[vetteguy53081]

He’s still in the DT but I did give him a 30 min H2o2 and placed him in an acclimation box. I’ll have to setup a new QT. Since I don’t know if what he has is wounds or velvet. Wouldn’t he have died already if it’s velvet?

Velvet I rule out and cant clearly see body due to low lighting but can be flukes as example

 

[W31Olds]

I have a WT Bristletooth in my DT and he gets these smallish discolored spots from time to time. You have other Tangs so this may be due to squabbling and stress. Mine gets into it with my purple all the time and it's mostly benign, however a couple of months ago they went to war and both fish got dinged up pretty good. Yours looks to be in good condition so observation is probably best at this point.

 

[bshake]

He’s still in the DT but I did give him a 30 min H2o2 and placed him in an acclimation box. I’ll have to setup a new QT. Since I don’t know if what he has is wounds or velvet. Wouldn’t he have died already if it’s velvet?

Velvet I rule out and cant clearly see body due to low lighting but can be flukes as example

Would the H2o2 bath dislodge the flukes?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Would the H2o2 bath dislodge the flukes?

No as peroxide is an oxidizer. A FW bath may dislodge some if any and is not a remedy for flukes

 

[bshake]

I have a WT Bristletooth in my DT and he gets these smallish discolored spots from time to time. You have other Tangs so this may be due to squabbling and stress. Mine gets into it with my purple all the time and it's mostly benign, however a couple of months ago they went to war and both fish got dinged up pretty good. Yours looks to be in good condition so observation is probably best at this point.

Thank you for the advice yeah I have a bunch of tangs in the tank and I don’t see any fighting some chasing here and there but nothing serious. Also I battled with ich so much that I’m paranoid even running a UV doesn’t help. I’ll take a look at home when I come home and see what’s he looking like

 

[bshake]

Would the H2o2 bath dislodge the flukes?

No as peroxide is an oxidizer. A FW bath may dislodge some if any and is not a remedy for flukes

So the white tail still looks the same. I haven’t noticed much change but under heavy blue light I can see spots on it. Under white light they don’t seem to show. Still none of the other fish in the tank seem to show anything

 

[vetteguy53081]

So the white tail still looks the same. I haven’t noticed much change but under heavy blue light I can see spots on it. Under white light they don’t seem to show. Still none of the other fish in the tank seem to show anything

Perfect,,, now I see it and its ich.
You will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone. All other fish in with it should also be removed as they have also been exposed to the parasites and placed in quarantine tank.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off.

 

[W31Olds]

Thank you for the advice yeah I have a bunch of tangs in the tank and I don’t see any fighting some chasing here and there but nothing serious. Also I battled with ich so much that I’m paranoid even running a UV doesn’t help. I’ll take a look at home when I come home and see what’s he looking like

You have to size you UV correctly for both wattage and flow for it to help manage Ich.
Tank Volume
Wattage of UV
Flow Rate for Protozoans
Turnover Rate

 

[bshake]

So the white tail still looks the same. I haven’t noticed much change but under heavy blue light I can see spots on it. Under white light they don’t seem to show. Still none of the other fish in the tank seem to show anything

Perfect,,, now I see it and its ich.
You will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone. All other fish in with it should also be removed as they have also been exposed to the parasites and placed in quarantine tank.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off.

I’ve dealt with ich every year since I’ve started the hobby going into 5 years or so now. All the fish were QTd already and just came out of QT in the last 8 months. I really don’t know what I’m doing wrong here. Only things that I didn’t QT were corals and inverts. I know they can carry ich. Even with a UV sterilizer. Would it be okay to just take out the sick fish? And hope the rest can resist it? I’ve realized I can’t eradicate it from the tank no matter what I do. It’s a whole song and dance every few months or year at most. The issue is catching the wrasse and having to remove the entire aquascape

 

[bshake]

Thank you for the advice yeah I have a bunch of tangs in the tank and I don’t see any fighting some chasing here and there but nothing serious. Also I battled with ich so much that I’m paranoid even running a UV doesn’t help. I’ll take a look at home when I come home and see what’s he looking like

You have to size you UV correctly for both wattage and flow for it to help manage Ich.
Tank Volume
Wattage of UV
Flow Rate for Protozoans
Turnover Rate

I’m running a 25 watt TMC titan UV paired with a Sicce nano 1.5 based on the calculation of the tank size. So it should be sufficient but this is insane honestly.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve dealt with ich every year since I’ve started the hobby going into 5 years or so now. All the fish were QTd already and just came out of QT in the last 8 months. I really don’t know what I’m doing wrong here. Only things that I didn’t QT were corals and inverts. I know they can carry ich. Even with a UV sterilizer. Would it be okay to just take out the sick fish? And hope the rest can resist it? I’ve realized I can’t eradicate it from the tank no matter what I do. It’s a whole song and dance every few months or year at most. The issue is catching the wrasse and having to remove the entire aquascape

Its a risk you will take and UV will address what passes through its channel and not erase what is pre-existing. Many are recommending UV after the discovery of parasites and is less impactive once parasites are in place

 

[bshake]

I’ve dealt with ich every year since I’ve started the hobby going into 5 years or so now. All the fish were QTd already and just came out of QT in the last 8 months. I really don’t know what I’m doing wrong here. Only things that I didn’t QT were corals and inverts. I know they can carry ich. Even with a UV sterilizer. Would it be okay to just take out the sick fish? And hope the rest can resist it? I’ve realized I can’t eradicate it from the tank no matter what I do. It’s a whole song and dance every few months or year at most. The issue is catching the wrasse and having to remove the entire aquascape

Its a risk you will take and UV will address what passes through its channel and not erase what is pre-existing. Many are recommending UV after the discovery of parasites and is less impactive once parasites are in place

Yeah I know but the UV has been running from before the fish were placed in the tank.do you think it’s possible just to remove the affected fish and treat them?

 

[MikeReefs]

Yeah I know but the UV has been running from before the fish were placed in the tank.do you think it’s possible just to remove the affected fish and treat them?

Sure it’s possible but they will continue the same cycle and be re infected once put back into the main display

 

[bshake]

Yeah I know but the UV has been running from before the fish were placed in the tank.do you think it’s possible just to remove the affected fish and treat them?

Sure it’s possible but they will continue the same cycle and be re infected once put back into the main display

I’ve done this so many times and I can’t go a full 12 month without going fallow again because of ich. It’s just been frustrating to say the least.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yeah I know but the UV has been running from before the fish were placed in the tank.do you think it’s possible just to remove the affected fish and treat them?

Yes and advised. You will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone. All other fish in with it should also be removed as they have also been exposed to the parasites and placed in quarantine tank.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off.
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store, a Rubbermaid type tub or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.