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KStatefan

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I just ordered this optical sensor from Amazon for $25. It didn't come with a wiring diagram. I believe L and N are Hot and Neutral. Would anyone like to advise as to how to hook up the pump wires? I think the other four terminals are NO and NC. But why have two sensors?

This is from the manufacturer:

Descriptions:

When the level status LED (D3, D4) on the module are working.

This product is for liquid level sensing, convenient to get aware of liquid level and easy to adjust.

MPN Does Not Apply
Brand Uxcell
Cable Length 50cm/19.7"
IR Sensor Double IR Sensor
IR Sensor Size 20 x 25mm/0.8"x1"(D*H)
Main Color Black, Blue, Green
Material Plastic & Electronic Part
Main Body Size 71 x 45 x 24mm/2.8"x1.8"x0.94"(L*W*H)
Working Voltage AC 85~265V
Working Current Max. 100mA
Output Up to 30A
Response Time Less Than 500ms
Insulation Resistance 100M Ohm
Working Temp -30~80C
Operating Humidity 0~100% RH
Net Weight 94g

I am stumped. I connect power L and N. I have continuity between the first two terminals and the second two terminals powered or not. I do not have continuity between terminal one and three or one and four or two and three or two and four. Keep in mind this is all not powered.

If I power the board there is no change to terminal continuity. If I drop one sensor in the water in a time I get no change in continuity and no power across any two terminals. Same if I take the first sensor out and drop the other sensor in the water.

If I put both sensors in the water I get continuity across all terminals although still no power.



Level Controller 3.png

It is possible the the L & N are just to power the electronics.
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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I just ordered this optical sensor from Amazon for $25. It didn't come with a wiring diagram. I believe L and N are Hot and Neutral. Would anyone like to advise as to how to hook up the pump wires? I think the other four terminals are NO and NC. But why have two sensors?

This is from the manufacturer:

Descriptions:

When the level status LED (D3, D4) on the module are working.

This product is for liquid level sensing, convenient to get aware of liquid level and easy to adjust.

MPN Does Not Apply
Brand Uxcell
Cable Length 50cm/19.7"
IR Sensor Double IR Sensor
IR Sensor Size 20 x 25mm/0.8"x1"(D*H)
Main Color Black, Blue, Green
Material Plastic & Electronic Part
Main Body Size 71 x 45 x 24mm/2.8"x1.8"x0.94"(L*W*H)
Working Voltage AC 85~265V
Working Current Max. 100mA
Output Up to 30A
Response Time Less Than 500ms
Insulation Resistance 100M Ohm
Working Temp -30~80C
Operating Humidity 0~100% RH
Net Weight 94g

I am stumped. I connect power L and N. I have continuity between the first two terminals and the second two terminals powered or not. I do not have continuity between terminal one and three or one and four or two and three or two and four. Keep in mind this is all not powered.

If I power the board there is no change to terminal continuity. If I drop one sensor in the water in a time I get no change in continuity and no power across any two terminals. Same if I take the first sensor out and drop the other sensor in the water.

If I put both sensors in the water I get continuity across all terminals although still no power.



Level Controller 3.png
I'm not sure that I would design a product like this, but here is my take on it.

Power to the board is only for control.

I'm guessing that the 2 optical sensors are for redundancy. I would do a check where I put both of them in the water and take one sensor out to see if it opens the connection between the contact pairs or if it stays closed until both sensors are removed.

I also see no reason for two terminals on each side of the switch. I see no markings indicating a normally closed connection, only normally open. To wire a pump into this you would take the hot from the power supply to one set of contacts. Run a wire from the other side to the pump. Connect the neutral from the pump to the power supply.

What is it called, exactly as Amazon has it for sale. I'm going to Google and see if any info I can find you before commenting
 

Brew12

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Dr. Dendrostein

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Brew12

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Found this from the link

The "L" is the line from the power source, "N" is the neutral. The other 4 terminals are for wiring in a NC (Normally Closed) circuit or a NO (Normally Open) Circuit depending on how you want the device hooked up to the terminals to operate
This device doesn't have a normally closed option. It has a single contact which is normally open. You can tell by looking at the back of the circuit board.
upload_2018-9-25_15-30-38.png
 

steamman

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Thank you all for helping with this. Yes, L is power and N is neutral. That is for sure because I did get that information from questions asked to the seller. I experimented by dropping the sensors in the water one at a time to see what happened. Nothing changed until both sensors were in the water. At that point I had continuity across terminals (1 and 2) and (3 and 4). It seems like one sensor has to be in the water all the time. This must be the safety to protect the pump from running dry. Then when the water hits the second sensor power can pass through from (1 and 2) to (3 and 4). Why it has 4 terminals is a mystery. I can see how to use this in a reservoir where your pump is to keep it from running dry. If the first (or safety sensor) is dry the pump will not come on. Looks like I can use this. It is cheap enough. I hope it is dependable. If you are looking for a much better controller I own a Deter controller. They are more expensive but have a high and low level switch where the pump comes on with one sensor and off with the other. I believe the JBL controller works like this. Here is a link to the Deter Controller. There are two models. One has a third relay you can use for high or low water safety. BTW the Deter does not come with sensors. You have to add them yourself.

https://www.deeterelectronics.com/us/product/level-controllers/dlc-series-dual-level-controllers/
 

steamman

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Yes it is Uxcell.

uxcell Dual Liquid Level Detection Sensor Module Infrared Level Alarm
 

Mykesocalreef

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@Brew12 I was trying to tag the OP but the name wouldn't come up. Maybe you can lend some advice.. I want to bring two new circuits to my fish room. What would be your ideal setup from breaker to outlet? GFCI's where how many etc.
 

Brew12

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@Brew12 I was trying to tag the OP but the name wouldn't come up. Maybe you can lend some advice.. I want to bring two new circuits to my fish room. What would be your ideal setup from breaker to outlet? GFCI's where how many etc.
That is a tough question. The best way to do it is highly dependent on your system. I think I would stay away from GFCI breakers. Odds are you will want a combination of GFCI and non GFCI outlets although you will be limited by code requirements if you have a sink in the room. If no sink, I would put around 6 outlets per breaker. The first 2 would be non-gfci for stuff like controllers, dosing pumps, and other non-wet stuff. Then I would put a receptacle with GFCI protection in an easy to access area for convenient testing, resetting, and replacing. Then put the remaining 3+ outlets in the series chain after this one near the tank so they have the GFCI protection.
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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That is a tough question. The best way to do it is highly dependent on your system. I think I would stay away from GFCI breakers. Odds are you will want a combination of GFCI and non GFCI outlets although you will be limited by code requirements if you have a sink in the room. If no sink, I would put around 6 outlets per breaker. The first 2 would be non-gfci for stuff like controllers, dosing pumps, and other non-wet stuff. Then I would put a receptacle with GFCI protection in an easy to access area for convenient testing, resetting, and replacing. Then put the remaining 3+ outlets in the series chain after this one near the tank so they have the GFCI protection.
Brew12 , wire 14ga or 12ga.
 

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I am trying to figure out a simple way to interrupt power for 10 minutes for a feed cycle. I would like to turn a dial or push a button and not have to worry about manually turning the power back on. Can a time delay relay or maybe something simpler like a mechanical timer work to accomplish this? I do have an apex that I could use but I am looking for a stand alone solution. Thank you in advance for any help.
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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I am trying to figure out a simple way to interrupt power for 10 minutes for a feed cycle. I would like to turn a dial or push a button and not have to worry about manually turning the power back on. Can a time delay relay or maybe something simpler like a mechanical timer work to accomplish this? I do have an apex that I could use but I am looking for a stand alone solution. Thank you in advance for any help.
Good question, I can make them out of electromechanical relays, solid state time delays, etc.. but, hope @Brew12 know of a simple pc board that's small in size, my way alittle large.
 

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