Zoa dominate tank light schedule.

[Catchemall]

That chart helped me. Once I got my head wrapped around how the numbers worked in combination with the light leve growth took off. Then you can find the balance between the two.

 

[ReefInskeep]

The photo you shared looked like you’re only running 2 channels, is that correct?

On my Nuvo 10 (Zoa & softie dominant) I’ve got a non-HD AI Prime and I use a modified AB+ Spectrum (with higher whites for the softies appearance), based on Ecotech’s research and what info I could glean from spectrometer results posted online. Right now it’s not at full intensity, but that’s because I don’t want heavy growth. lol

Look up BRSTV’s videos on the AI Prime (even the HD ones, that’ll still give you an idea) and they give clear advice on spectrum as well as charts indicating rough estimates of PAR.

If you do increase light levels, do it relatively slowly and be sure to acclimate your corals. Zoas would probably be fine if you didn’t, but I tend to stick with better safe than sorry in this hobby.

Also, what parameters are you running, how stable, etc.? What sort of flow in the tank? I think it was mentioned previously, but it’s important to view the system as a whole and not assume one thing will be a magic fix, if there may be other issues at play slowing growth.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

The photo you shared looked like you’re only running 2 channels, is that correct?

On my Nuvo 10 (Zoa & softie dominant) I’ve got a non-HD AI Prime and I use a modified AB+ Spectrum (with higher whites for the softies appearance), based on Ecotech’s research and what info I could glean from spectrometer results posted online. Right now it’s not at full intensity, but that’s because I don’t want heavy growth. lol

Look up BRSTV’s videos on the AI Prime (even the HD ones, that’ll still give you an idea) and they give clear advice on spectrum as well as charts indicating rough estimates of PAR.

If you do increase light levels, do it relatively slowly and be sure to acclimate your corals. Zoas would probably be fine if you didn’t, but I tend to stick with better safe than sorry in this hobby.

Also, what parameters are you running, how stable, etc.? What sort of flow in the tank? I think it was mentioned previously, but it’s important to view the system as a whole and not assume one thing will be a magic fix, if there may be other issues at play slowing growth.

I will check this out this evening. But parameters are stable. Flow in my opinion is mild. I will post pics of the tank and all levels tonight when I test. Sorry for and inconvenience it’s finals week at school. Stay tuned for parameters update this evening.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Ill second this one they like some nutrients to work with. It goes beyond just lighting. Check out red seas accelerated growth reccomendations compared to coloration chart.

https://www.redseafish.com/blog/enhanced-coloration-or-accelerated-growth/

After reading this article, I have come to a conclusion that I will first be buying better test kits(Hanna Checkers), a what is everyone’s thought on the perfect dosage supplement beside Red Sea? Just want people’s opinions. Thank you

 

[Catchemall]

Hanna checkers and reef roids lol

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Hanna checkers and reef roids lol

I tested the parameters this evening all was well calcium was 340. Going to get it up to 420. And make sure everything stays stable for a month and take into account everyone’s else’s opinion once that is stable. Then start a check list testing what works best. Updates to come, thank you to all for your help. Happy reefing.

 

[Nicholas Dushynsky]

I have a 25 gallon lagoon. With two ai primes(not HD’s) have been running the same light cycle for awhile now and not getting much growth(some growth) or pop(no pop) in colors what would y’all recommend I try. Also no deaths or melts, 14 different zoas, and a pink rose bubble tip. If you have a light file that works great for you please share. But here is a picture of my light schedule. All are welcome to post and share their own.

Blues- peak at 75%
Cool white- peak at 15%

Can i ask are you just running blue and deep blue? Why aren't you using the rest if the light I.e. Uv and Violet or white? There are sources out there about these lights and settings for them. Just looking at 27% on b and db I don't think that thier getting enough light/spectrum.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Can i ask are you just running blue and deep blue? Why aren't you using the rest if the light I.e. Uv and Violet or white? There are sources out there about these lights and settings for them. Just looking at 27% on b and db I don't think that thier getting enough light/spectrum.

Yes you may. I’m running blue, deep blue and cool white. I’m watching videos on how to get the most from the lights and reading articles. And find the sweet spot that works for them.

 

[NemHost]

I tested the parameters this evening all was well calcium was 340. Going to get it up to 420. And make sure everything stays stable for a month and take into account everyone’s else’s opinion once that is stable. Then start a check list testing what works best. Updates to come, thank you to all for your help. Happy reefing.

Raise your levels of calcium and carbonate slowly (I didn’t notice you mentioning your co3 level but I’d assume it’s low if your calcium is only 340.).
Also, as others have mentioned, you should use the entire spectrum of light. Something similar to ecotech AB+ would work nicely, which is what I use with my radions. AB+ is basically all the blue, uv and violet on 100 percent and white, green and red at about 17 percent

 

[NemHost]

Also make sure that magnesium is above 1300, otherwise your level of calcium and carbonate could fluctuate

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Raise your levels of calcium and carbonate slowly (I didn’t notice you mentioning your co3 level but I’d assume it’s low if your calcium is only 340.).
Also, as others have mentioned, you should use the entire spectrum of light. Something similar to ecotech AB+ would work nicely, which is what I use with my radions. AB+ is basically all the blue, uv and violet on 100 percent and white, green and red at about 17 percent

Thank you so much I will. Yes both were low. I am going to check out the Ecotech schedule once I get back in town, and have all parameters balanced. Do you know if that will be compatible with ai primes(not HD)?

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Once everything is stable and where it needs to be. What is everyone’s thoughts on either two part dosing or kalkwasser? I have a busy schedule the next year and plan to incorporate a dosage pump or gravity drip, for some days I won’t be able to maintain my schedule. Unfortunately I don’t have a sump in this 25 gallon lagoon. But will be upgrading to a larger tank at the end of the year.

 

[NemHost]

Thank you so much I will. Yes both were low. I am going to check out the Ecotech schedule once I get back in town, and have all parameters balanced. Do you know if that will be compatible with ai primes(not HD)?

It should be fine. HD stands for hyperdrive which basically allows you to push any channel past 100 percent if you have power available from unused channels. But I think (could be wrong) that diodes are basically the same.

 

[NemHost]

Once everything is stable and where it needs to be. What is everyone’s thoughts on either two part dosing or kalkwasser? I have a busy schedule the next year and plan to incorporate a dosage pump or gravity drip, for some days I won’t be able to maintain my schedule. Unfortunately I don’t have a sump in this 25 gallon lagoon. But will be upgrading to a larger tank at the end of the year.

Do you use an auto top off unit? If you do, you could just add kalk to unit and that could be enough for your system. Kalk is easier but you it also raises ph significantly so it should be added slowly.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

Do you use an auto top off unit? If you do, you could just add kalk to unit and that could be enough for your system. Kalk is easier but you it also raises ph significantly so it should be added slowly.

I do have one, and that’s what I was thinking about doing just wasn’t sure. Yea I was doing research on it and learned a lot. Just wasn’t sure what everyone else’s thoughts were on it. Thank you so much.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

It should be fine. HD stands for hyperdrive which basically allows you to push any channel past 100 percent if you have power available from unused channels. But I think (could be wrong) that diodes are basically the same.

Awesome. I will definitely change those over with a week to acclimation till everything is where it needs to be. After of course all parameters are in check.

 

[John3]

AB+, start there. It’s proven so it’s one variable you can eliminate.

Thats the key to this hobby. Eliminate as many variables as possible and track the others.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

AB+, start there. It’s proven so it’s one variable you can eliminate.

Thats the key to this hobby. Eliminate as many variables as possible and track the others.

I will do that. They have an LPS schedule to. I do have an anemone in the tank. The two schedules aren’t to different. Thanks for pointing me in this direction. I will adjust the lighting once i return to town Monday.

 

[BillyReefer]

i'm not sure about the lighting, it was gives me the biggest headache ever. There is so many options avaible that you barely find a way out.

I have seen people lighting there zoa's with blue's only, i have seen people with blue's verry dominant and a little bit of white, and people running a more whiter spectrum.
All of them grow them. What lighting do we need? Guy A says this, guy b says that, what is it?

I have a zoa dominated tank aswell, and i'm currently running 10 hours blue, and 5.5 hours white at 12%. I have paly's that are doing super great in barely 40 par, then i have the same paly's in 120 par not growing.
It's not always more is better. Zoa's are in my opinion one of the hardest corals, they can melt in a fingerclick without finding a good reason.

 

[HBK's Lagoon]

i'm not sure about the lighting, it was gives me the biggest headache ever. There is so many options avaible that you barely find a way out.

I have seen people lighting there zoa's with blue's only, i have seen people with blue's verry dominant and a little bit of white, and people running a more whiter spectrum.
All of them grow them. What lighting do we need? Guy A says this, guy b says that, what is it?

I have a zoa dominated tank aswell, and i'm currently running 10 hours blue, and 5.5 hours white at 12%. I have paly's that are doing super great in barely 40 par, then i have the same paly's in 120 par not growing.
It's not always more is better. Zoa's are in my opinion one of the hardest corals, they can melt in a fingerclick without finding a good reason.

That’s what I have grown to know now. I just want to make my zoas happy healthy and grow.