Dont all zoa morph based on light? Honest question.I understand the desire to organize and categorize new zoa acquisitions. That being said, given the size and disposition of the frags those are just wild un-named zoas that were imported and chopped up. Now, it's a question of specificity. Can we put names on them? Sure. But with the understanding that they're in a group ( or bucket) and that they're not a specific thing. You do this based on certain immutable traits.
The first one has more in common with blow pops than anything else- yellow/orange mouth, white/blue center, and green skirt. It's a nice example, it might have been named something somewhere at some time but nothing immediately comes to mind. I'd call it a blow pop and a day.
The second one is not a clementine. Clementines are a somewhat smaller zoa (think rasta) and do not morph. The center and skirt is far brighter and more well defined. The purple is a deeper shade.
Examples like the second one are pretty common and often get called false clementines or dropped into a larger bucket of creamsicles or even bigger fire and ice. Fact is those are common to the point they're usually just called assorted zoas. That shouldn't diminish them in any way but clementines they are not.
The third zoa I agree with dropping them into the dasiy cutter/stargazer/pinwheel bucket. There's no conventional difference with those names now - feel free to google. But it brings up an interesting talking point. At one point pinwheels were indeed a different strain, this one has been floating around for a decade or so.
But because of the loose and interchangeable application of names led to the above strain being wall-papered over and now we have three names for the same group of green, blue and white-speckled zoas.
At the end of the day the request for ID might just be for your own satisfaction but I always encourage people to google the hell out of something if they're looking to resell. Better yet, look around on Instagram so you're seeing (for the most part) untouched up examples of the zoas in question.
Dont all zoa morph based on light? Honest question.
Have you found a correlation of how alk affects the zoa morph? (Example: if higher/lower alk causes darker colors, larger polyp etc) Very curious about this!
Wow! That’s amazing! I currently have an AI Prime over my nano, and I’m happy with the results! You can see the difference in the zoa from when I first got it (whiter light) and 1.5 month later (bluer). Although the last is blue, so obviously the colors pop more, the green on the skirt and black around the mouth were practically nonexistent when I first received it. Next, I’m hoping to introduce more flow to help get the longer skirtOut of a sample size of about 200 strains I’ve only really noticed a difference with red and gold mauls. To that end they’re more ‘colored up’ and the pattern is appearing more broken. I’m pragmatic about asserting stuff so at this point I’d defer until I have a little more time and info. However, I know not only alk, but also nitrates and phosphates are incredibly important to our ‘stick head’ friends across the aisle in order to get their tenius (Disney and homewreckers) to color properly.
It’s my working opinion that size is tied more to light intensity (or lack there of) and wavelength. Cardinal rule of biology is that ‘form follows function.’ We’ve all see zoas pan for light and common wisdom is to ‘move it up.’ It’s more likely the zoa is panning because it’s not getting light in the right wavelength. Most LEDs try to pack a wide spread of light into their diodes and then you can program from there and try to hit the right spots in the spectrum, in a black box ‘you get what you get.’ T5’s on the other hand allow you to choose where you want to be and how much par. From practical experience an array of T5’s in the 400+ nanometer range (UV) (Blue plus, purple plus, actinic) will yield larger polyps that don’t display ‘panning,’ (despite low par) and are also better able to capture food (in my case phyto, reefroids) out of the water column. Fat corals are happy corals. Happy corals are more robust. I’d suggest looking into SB Reef lights which are built around this principle.