300 gallon oasis build in AZ

Lost in the Sauce

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so based on the charts I have found, each 1 1/2 drain pipe from the tank can do a max of 2100 gph gravity fed. So three would be a max of 6300 gph. Which I dont see will happen as with any over flow box or any type of drain cover water flow will be restrict water flow.
Also since I have two Ecotech M2 as the returns their max is 2000 gph for each with 1 inch pipe return.
So I figure my max tank turn over rate is 4000 gph which I don't see a realistic number achieved, since their is head pressure. So I calculated it to be about 3000 gph which gives me a 10 times tank turn over max.

The drains are set right now at 2" below water height. I may change this or change the drain covers. I don't know until I get water in and have the system cycling.

The two sumps can handle a 3" water drop from the main tank which would be 37.4 gallons and they still would have room for additional 10 gallons.
I am allowing a max of 2 inch drop from main which will be aprox 25 gallons.

Once I have water in the tank I will fine turn the whole water flow etc process.
Sounds Cool. My only fear in having the drain pick up so close to the water would be sucking air But if you're pushing that much volume through I think it would be hard for them to create the vortex needed.
 
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1ocean

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Sounds Cool. My only fear in having the drain pick up so close to the water would be sucking air But if you're pushing that much volume through I think it would be hard for them to create the vortex needed.
Yep thats on my mind too, On the back of the tank the drain pipes have a "T" to allow for air to escape or mix with the water and help with flow. At the top of the "T" I am building a little container to put a foam block and carbon in,to filter any air that may get mixed with water to prevent issues. The 300 is in the same side of the house with the kitchen and also want to be sure any cleaning chemicals or candle etc are cleaned by the carbon...
If the drains create a wirlpool effect in the tank at the drains, I may make the singles drains screens into dual ones by adding a "T" and having two screens for each drain..

I also have two brand new 1" VCA Random flow gens for each return but I am not sure I will use them as they rate at 720-1000 gph...Not sure I want to restrict return flow...
And since I have two gyres and two mp40 I could always add more of these since the 300 will be a bare bottom....
 
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fishguy242

Cronies..... INSERT BUILD THREAD BADGE HERE !!
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i have run many top water stand pipes,love em,
frankentank is approx 400 gallons,running 2 1 1/2' tw drains w vent,2 mag 18,1800gph returns slightly valved down.
 
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Spent over 6 hours yesterday designing rocks out of the tank and then moved then to the 300 tank. Used grinder and hammer drill to make sure the rocks interlocked and had a flat surface where they met. Also created additional holes in some of the rocks.
Here is a picture.
Should have water in the tank in about two weeks, we now have to do all the wiring next and tuck the wires neatly under the stand. Then I have to make the doors.

300 with rocks done.jpg
 
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Tank is almost full with RODI water from the RODI system.
Got these 1 1/2 strainers, gonna use 3 of them, one for each 1 1/2 drain pipe.
Got 6 so we can rotate and clean 3 at a time when needed.
Gonna finish filling the tank with RODI water and then turn the return pumps on ans tweak the flow system on the tank...today
 

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1ocean

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I love that scape.
Thanks, we tried hard to make it look real and tried to get a shelf like look in some of it. . It took some time, used a hammer drill and concrete grinder to make the rocks fit solid with no glue...and also to make holes or bigger holes in the rocks for water to pass.
I will take some more pictures from different angles..The far left bottom rock is like 20" in diameter and about 3 inches think, 40 pounds. Made a great shelf. The long flat one that comes from the left and goes to about the middle is about 12" wide and 40" long..weight 36 pounds
 
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Thanks everyone for the support. I am off work Thursday and will get some pictures of the 300 in daylight. I am not turning on the 4 Gen5 XR30 blues lights yet for about a month or more until i get a good run of adding brightwell microbacter clean and Bio fuel to help prevent algae growth and that ugly stage. We will start with this process on Thursday..
We are slowly adding fish from the 140 to the 300 as to let the bacteria grow to support the fish being added, while we monitor the nitrite and nitrate numbers.
We are using the 140 as our holding tank for the corals and for allowing us to keep introducing new tangs to each other before going into the 300.
The 140 has nor rocks or anything in our way to catch any fish incase of a fight.
Right now we have been collecting over the last few months, in the 140 a purple tang, naso tang, powder blue tang, tomini tang. All get along great.
Next is a blue hippo and 1or 2 yellow tangs, and I think that will be enough tangs for the 300.
We so are trying to find a starki damsel...
Hope you all have a great week....
Ciao.
 
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been seeing how people are making these air exchange towers out of these oil barrel type things made out of plastic and they sell for about $90.00 for a gallon for air exchange towers. People also use bio balls for this purpose too but they are more dense at $55.00 a gallon.
I made this out of plastic hair roller package for $14.00 came in three different sizes, more then 2 gallons of plastic area.
Tower is 20 inches high and 6 inches in diameter.
It will be on a stand in the sump that keeps it above the 8 inch water height.
Hope this inspires others to do this to save $$$$$$
Ciao
 

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Well it is friday night and having a Stella. Been doing a lot of research and talking with all my new friends here on R2R and local reefers here in AZ
Decided to scrape the refug on the 300, since I don't even have it up and running yet since the tank is only 3 weeks old and running. The refug idea to me seems to be less to control its output or should I say end results.
I decided to go with making a two tower sulfur denitrator, tower one for sulfur and a second tower for CaribSea large aggronite to offset the sulfur ph,alk draw etc.
After speaking with everyone who has one for years, this is a more control process to dial in the nitrates within a certain ppm range, instead of relying on chaeto,algae and a light and having not so much control as I want.
Also it will free up a large area under my tank....
I know you can change the light and how many hours its on etc but if there is not enough nutrients the chaeto dies etc..
I went to a local place and picked up two slighly used reef octopus reactors, both for 135.00. looked them up: Reef Octopus BR 140 was $290.00 and the reef Octopus MF 2000 advanced media reactor was $220.00...score !!! Cleaned them all in citric acid and the look new.
I will share a pic after I finish customizing the fittings so I can connect the two, and also have a 1/4 drip line for the output to control the drip per second.
Tomorrow, after I will remove the empty refug and install the sulfur reactor.
Have to wait for 4 pounds of 99.9 % pure sulfur pellets I ordered a hour ago...
Have a great night, pic tomorrow...
 
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Well it is coffee time here and I just have to get a threaded 90 degree so I can thread the blue flex pipe to reactor 1, the sulfur reactor.
Ordered 4 pounds of 99.9% pure sulfur last night, it is on its way..
Now have to get Caribsea ARM.
Going to remove the refug I never used on the 300 since tank is only running 3 weeks...
 

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