3D printed overflow box (220 gallon)

Kerbash

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Hey,

I made a 3D printed overflow for my 220 gallon and I just wanted to share my process and my blueprint in case someone wants to use it. Been using it for 2 months now no leaks or anything like that and works great. Also cost around 50 bucks, $40 for the 5 bulk heads. 10$ for the filament it self. (Much better than the 300 bucks premade one X_X)

The only part I couldnt print was the bulk heads because my printer cant print out threads. I used 2 part epoxy to bind them to the overflow box.

The print...
- PLA
- 100% infilled
- 0.16 mm layer

The back piece was far too big for my printer so I had to print them as two separate pieces, then used a solvent (dichloromethane) to bond it together.
Image
Image

Although I did test it out and it was water proof I did seal the entire surface with the solvent to stop leaks too.
Image
Image

Finished product
 
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Here is the blueprint (fusion 360)
 

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DaneGer21

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If 3d printing could be smooth, it would be a game changer. That’s my only gripe with printed parts
 

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If 3d printing could be smooth, it would be a game changer. That’s my only gripe with printed parts
It can be, the resin based ones are easily finished into being smooth. You can also do some sanding on mechanical printed ones and there's some finishing techniques. It also depends which end of the print is touching the bed.



For OP, I would never trust a PLA plastic in my reef tank, they've been show to slowly degrade over time. I'm all in on PETG or bust.

"Decomposition is another issue to look out for when using PLA. PLA filaments are 100% biodegradable and when biodegradable objects absorb water, they begin to break down.

In a water-filled environment like an aquarium, especially in saltwater tanks, this is a problem."





It's not a matter of if that box will fail, it's when.
The great news is your design works, you can redo it in PETG and never worry about it again!
 
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Wow! nice work! how'd you get it to be water proof? I always need to add coatings/paint to get things water tight.
It was waterproof when I printed out but to make extra sure I used dichloromethane as a solvent to really bond it together, I just paint it one with a brush then let it dry then sand it, did that like twice came out looking like one solid piece of plastic.

If 3d printing could be smooth, it would be a game changer. That’s my only gripe with printed parts
yeah i did use the finest layer size my printer could and sand it down, it looks fine though
 

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It was waterproof when I printed out but to make extra sure I used dichloromethane as a solvent to really bond it together, I just paint it one with a brush then let it dry then sand it, did that like twice came out looking like one solid piece of plastic.


yeah i did use the finest layer size my printer could and sand it down, it looks fine though
Where do you procure your dichloromethane? I mean, what product would I buy that has that in it? Is it something I can get at a Menards or Home Depot for instance?
 
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Where do you procure your dichloromethane? I mean, what product would I buy that has that in it? Is it something I can get at a Menards or Home Depot for instance?
really hard to source lol, I heard you can purify paint cleaner from home depot but i this was much easier

 
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It can be, the resin based ones are easily finished into being smooth. You can also do some sanding on mechanical printed ones and there's some finishing techniques. It also depends which end of the print is touching the bed.



For OP, I would never trust a PLA plastic in my reef tank, they've been show to slowly degrade over time. I'm all in on PETG or bust.

"Decomposition is another issue to look out for when using PLA. PLA filaments are 100% biodegradable and when biodegradable objects absorb water, they begin to break down.

In a water-filled environment like an aquarium, especially in saltwater tanks, this is a problem."





It's not a matter of if that box will fail, it's when.
The great news is your design works, you can redo it in PETG and never worry about it again!

Yeah Ive been having really mixed result with PLA decomposition. I had a 3D printed battery box outside for like 6 months before the layers came apart. And I also had a bird feeder thats been out there for two years now and its still fine. Im hoping the post-treatment with the solvent bond everything together and smoothing the surface out hopefully prolonging its life.
 

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I have had a PLA overflow box inside the tank for two years and it shows no sign of decomp. I didn't treat it or do anything. Just printed and put it in the tank. its my understanding that the decomp time is 10 years. I don't know about you all but not much stuff stays on my tank for YEARS before I replace it with the next new thing (except for the tank).
 

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I used extruded PVC ceiling tiles to make an overflow for a small tank.
It was super easy because you can cut it with a utility knife and glue it with CA.
I don't bother printing square things with flat surfaces... there are usually better ways.
Here are a few photos...
I didn't know you can get the tiles in black.... so you can avoid a step.
 

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And did you have the stl? Thank :)
not sure if you are talking to me :face-with-tears-of-joy: but here is mine. I would actually make some modification I think? making it more like a puzzle piece instead of straight joint otherwise use a lot of acetone to bond them. It came apart when i moved 2 months ago, but I bonded them back together.

Also i think ABS is honestly the best choice, acetone is much easier and less dangerous to use, but its just hard to print, my frag tank is completely ABS from the frag rack to the return, works great
 

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homer1475

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I used extruded PVC ceiling tiles to make an overflow for a small tank.
It was super easy because you can cut it with a utility knife and glue it with CA.
I don't bother printing square things with flat surfaces... there are usually better ways.
Here are a few photos...
I didn't know you can get the tiles in black.... so you can avoid a step.
Sam, your DIY skills always amaze me. Great job!
 

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Sam, your DIY skills always amaze me. Great job!
Thanks! but I didn't want to hijack the thread; I was too quick to dismiss printed overflow but now see a lot of merit in it. kudos to those developing them!
 

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thank for the anwser, I think I may be able to print has a two part, did you think is a good idea @Kerbash ? and after printing 100% infill with ABS, the part should be waterproof? And do you have a video or your in action?

Thank
 
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thank for the anwser, I think I may be able to print has a two part, did you think is a good idea @Kerbash ? and after printing 100% infill with ABS, the part should be waterproof? And do you have a video or your in action?

Thank
Hey,

I dont have the picture of the one I gave you in action because Im out of town, but yes the files should be in two parts because my 3D printer was not big enough, afterward if you are using ABS u need to treat with acetone to make it waterproof, do it a couple of time and test, it took mine ~2 coat before it became waterproof but I think I did like half a dozen time just to make sure. BTW bond the two pieces together using Acetone as well, solven bond them glueing is not enough.

Thinking back on it now actually maybe add some tabs to increase the surface area might be good that way the two pieces will bond easier, maybe add an overlap.

Cheers
 

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interesting idea. pretty sure dichloromethane is methylene chloride/weldon 4, which are more readily available. Im another PETG enthusiast. Not sure if these are effective for PETG. I have some PETG prints with FillerPrimer and paint that im sure can hold water, but its gonna take me awhile to be comfortable using prints for this application. PVC sheets first thing to come to mind aswell.
 

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