3D Printed Overflow Guards

[BeanAnimal]

I have always been a proponent of long (coast-to-coast) overflow weirs to maximize surface skimming. However, that allows small fish to easily take the water slide route to the sump.

I started stocking some smaller fish over the last year and have had a few mishaps. As a result, I fashioned some overlapping egg crate gird. it was ugly, hard to clean and a hack job.

I decided to do it properly. Opening small enough to prevent fish from taking the ride and bars between the openings narrow enough to minimize impact on surface skimming.

Not much else to say.

- Brackets to fit the internal overflow box rim and tank trim.
- Slide in grates that are easy to remove and clean.
- A few sets of slide in grates. Smaller and larger opening sets - so that as fish grow and risk is lowered, I can open up more area.
- Lids to keep light out and algae growth down.
- Probe holder holes in lids.

 

[DanyL]

While my intention was never about having different sizes for different fish - my main tank came with modular/removabale weirs across the whole length of the tank (1.8 meters), which I later on modeled and 3D printed to have spares, so that when I clean them I’ll have a replacement I can put immediately, preventing my fish from jumping over into the internal overflow.

I even modified a couple to make space for cables, so that the wavemakers on my back would sit cleanly without cables running in plain sight.

I later on designed also my own removable, 3D printed weir for my frag tank.

I think 3D printed weirs should be a more common thing, it’s quite flexible, easy to design, can be made modular with as many spares as you wish, and also customized to your needs.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yep, spares to rotate in for cleaning already printed.

I can get them down to about 1.25 mm bars and they are still very strong with ASA

 

[BeanAnimal]

Some of the parts. Black Polymaker ASA

Fronts are smooth, backs much smoother than they look in photo, but was too lazy to adjust flow and did not want to waste time ironing.

 

[DanyL]

Looking awesome!

I printed mine thick on purpose, as the originals on my main were made from thin (though reinforced) ABS, and given the tight tolerances - they may get stuck in place, needing some force to be applied to remove them, and this always made me nervous.

It was actually one of the reasons that prompted me to model my own replacement, which I then also improved by making it thicker.

Given the properties of ASA, this might actually be a perfect fit for the purpose, and allow for tight tolerances and thin walls to be used - so I’m following you on this verdict.

I guess I’ll have to finally cave in and build an enclosure for my aging MK3S+ so that I’ll be able to print with ASA, or might just give another excuse to upgrade it to the P1P lol


Another idea I played with was making a 3D weir that protrudes inside the tank, increasing the surface area and enabling higher flows on tanks with limited space.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I left tolerances a bit loose, .2 to .5 difference in parts. I figured they would get stuck otherwise. I have a Qidi Q1 Pro. It is doing a great job. Could use a bit more build volume, but not going to complain. Had it 3 weeks now.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Wish my tank had something like this. The slots in my tank keep getting clogged up and raising the water level in my display to the point my wave makers splash over the rim. I’m tempted to just remove teeth from the overflow just to drop the level down a bit. Removable grills like this would make that so much easier.