3D UV Sweeper Try out for LCA Dinos

[141918]

I have had Dino’s on and off for almost 5 years, ever since I started my tank. Prorocentrum and lately, LCA. UV sweeper on its own did work but they returned immediately.

So I had to use full force to battle them and towards the end, the UV sweeper finished the job. I started the battle in November but did it more seriously in January. I think they might be gone but I am keeping the UV sweeper by the tank in case I need it.


Oh yes, it works very well on the rocks. I can attest to it. Just be careful because it will nuke every coral you touch with the light also. Ask me how I know. But at this point I didn’t care, I was going to shut down the tank if I didn’t get rid of them.

Can you please clarify on the additional steps taken along side the sweeper? To be honest, this is critical information for all reefers here with same issues. If you could kindly provide them, I'm sure everyone would deeply appreciate it.

 

[Idech]

Can you please clarify on the additional steps taken along side the sweeper? To be honest, this is critical information for all reefers here with same issues. If you could kindly provide them, I'm sure everyone would deeply appreciate it.

Of course. Nothing I invented. I mostly followed the documents in the Dino Facebook group, with my own twist.

I decreased the lights (slowly raising them now) and only kept blues on, dosed peroxyde to give me a good edge in the beginning, dosed high doses of silicates daily, bacteria in massive amount daily (without creating a bacteria bloom), and live phyto daily. I blasted the sand and the rocks for a while also and changed my filter floss daily.

And the last 2-3 weeks, I used the UV sweeper every evening, just before lights went off. I used it everywhere I had Dino’s : sand, rocks, overflow box, powerheads, weir, etc.

No water changes the whole time and I stopped dosing All for Reef because it’s the one constant I had all those years and there are known cases of it creating problems.

I also looked at the results regularly on my microscope. Sometimes every day. It’s the only way to know if you’re winning.

This is simplified but it has been one heck of a battle, in my case. I worked hard at it everyday for months.

 

[Moe K]

Let me ask you guys a couple questions. I am still looking for a pattern of why some struggle and others do not.

1. What 2 part or supplements are you dosing for your coral?

2. What sand type did you use setting up your tank?

3. Are you running UV sterilization regularly or constantly?

4. What salt brand are you using for water changes before the outbreak?

5. Do you make your own RODI? If so when was the last time you changed your membranes or resins?

I believe all these matter. It is not one thing that feeds dinos but a combination. The problem seems that if one all pieces of the puzzle is not remedied then the dinos can continue to proliferate just off of a single issue over looked. Typically it's something the corals would need too which makes it that much more difficult.

 

[Idech]

1. What 2 part or supplements are you dosing for your coral?

All for Reef

2. What sand type did you use setting up your tank?

Carib-Sea special grade (rinsed thoroughly)

3. Are you running UV sterilization regularly or constantly?

Rarely running my in-line UV.

4. What salt brand are you using for water changes before the outbreak?

Instant Ocean or Aquaforest

5. Do you make your own RODI? If so when was the last time you changed your membranes or resins?

Yes. It’s been a while but I don’t do regular WC. TDS is 2.

 

[Moe K]

All for Reef


Carib-Sea special grade (rinsed thoroughly)


Rarely running my in-line UV.


Instant Ocean or Aquaforest


Yes. It’s been a while but I don’t do regular WC. TDS is 2.

Let me post my disclaimer as I don't want to knock any products. Some of them I like very much and as said before dinos feed on things that are very beneficial to corals.

All for reef - Similar but not the same to carbon dosing. Could potentially fuel dinos.

Special grade sand - My personal theory is it traps incredible amounts of detritus and organics not easily siphoned out with just one or two water changes.

Aquaforest salt - Typically high in iron. Potential dino fuel.

Rodi - Are you getting TDS 2 after you resins? If so its well past time to change them. I recommend changing the resins when you see them get half way used up during dino battles. There are contaminants that can still get through our rodi units that will not show on any ICP tests.

 

[Idech]

Aquaforest salt - Typically high in iron. Potential dino fuel.

I’ve only been using it for less than a year. Before it was Red Sea blue bucket for like 2 years. I even tried Tropic Marin but had Dino’s with all of them.

Rodi - Are you getting TDS 2 after you resins? If so its well past time to change them. I recommend changing the resins when you see them get half way used up during dino battles. There are contaminants that can still get through our rodi units that will not show on any ICP tests.

Yes, after the 4 stages. I just bought carbon, sediment and RO cartridges. DI still has color. I will change them, just in case.

2 TDS doesn’t bother me but I haven’t been reefing that long (5 years).

 

[141918]

Let me ask you guys a couple questions. I am still looking for a pattern of why some struggle and others do not.

1. What 2 part or supplements are you dosing for your coral?
I use ESV for mag, calc and all.

2. What sand type did you use setting up your tank?
Fiji pink

3. Are you running UV sterilization regularly or constantly?
Only the UV sweeper. Barely any Dinos left on rocks at all, if any.

4. What salt brand are you using for water changes before the outbreak?
Used to use seachem salinity, then switched to Fritz RPM, then switched to Reef Crystals

5. Do you make your own RODI? If so when was the last time you changed your membranes or resins?

Yes, but had Dinos before during and after new or old cartridges. But still, probably due to change all of them out. Haven't ever purchased a TDS meter as I'm not sure which one to buy.

I believe all these matter. It is not one thing that feeds dinos but a combination. The problem seems that if one all pieces of the puzzle is not remedied then the dinos can continue to proliferate just off of a single issue over looked. Typically it's something the corals would need too which makes it that much more difficult.

I agree. The UV sweeper is doing its job without a doubt. But if the husbandry is including items that fuel Dinos, its just a loop process without resolution lol.

 

[Moe K]

Yes, but had Dinos before during and after new or old cartridges. But still, probably due to change all of them out. Haven't ever purchased a TDS meter as I'm not sure which one to buy.

I agree. The UV sweeper is doing its job without a doubt. But if the husbandry is including items that fuel Dinos, its just a loop process without resolution lol.

Nothing really stands out here. Keep on reefing.

Possibly when you return from vacation and the next time you use the sweeper, hold it over the same spots for longer than 10-15 seconds. Go for at least 30 seconds or more. Honestly I would expect fiji pink sand to clear up sooner than later. Absolutely don't stir or syphon the sand.

 

[141918]

One thing I have noticed is that before, the film algae on the glass would be red. Now after about 10 days of sweeping, the film algae is now a green color which is a very good sign that my tank is in a better state to grow alternate organisms etc. I think it's just gonna take some more time. Tank was in rough shape before with that mass of Dinos, and it will likely take a good month of monitoring and treatments to get that favourable shift.

 

[141918]

I'll be able to get a good look at the tank this afternoon after being away for 3 days with no sweeping or bacteria. Kinda interested to see how things have behaved since Thursday night. Wife is topping up the water and feeding the fish while I am away lol.

Maybe the 3 day break allowed the tank to settle a bit and let it grow some more algae on the sides and back.

 

[141918]

Hey all,

No sweeper yet today but surely impressed with the fact that the tank doesn't look really any worse than it did 3 days ago with absolutely no actions.

Will continue with the sweeps starting again tonight with the bacteria, but looks like the tank has been absolutely ok with the break. Pics are attached below.

Definitely, the sides have grown a nice coating of good green algae, and is not red like it was before which was infested with Dinos.

 

[Idech]

Hey all,

No sweeper yet today but surely impressed with the fact that the tank doesn't look really any worse than it did 3 days ago with absolutely no actions.

Will continue with the sweeps starting again tonight with the bacteria, but looks like the tank has been absolutely ok with the break. Pics are attached below.

Definitely, the sides have grown a nice coating of good green algae, and is not red like it was before which was infested with Dinos.

You still have Dino’s, you need to keep going. Do 10 days of sweeping after you have a slide with no Dino’s (or 1-2 dying).

 

[141918]

HI all, sorry for waisting your time.

Once I can get situated, will be tearing down the tank, rehoming the fish/corals and out of the hobby. I don't have the time or resources to fight this on a daily basis. Looks like for beginners, this hobby costs a fortune of time, literally a 40 hour per week job.

But I do want to send a special shout out for the UV sweeper. It's an amazing effective tool at getting rid of Dinos. But if tank husbandry and feeding are not kept in check, the Dinos will survive and prevail if left unchecked. I can't figure out the missing step and sincerely do no want to spend another 6 to 12 months figuring it out.

 

[Moe K]

Reef tanks are a serious commitment.

Sometimes you just have to take a step back. Slow down a little. Do not feel pressured to sweep daily if that is something you can not do. I think you will still have success with casual use. 2 or 3 times a week should be sufficient to give the little demons a hard time. It might take a while longer but eventually they will be defeated and the increase in green film algae or cyano means you were on the right track.

Reef tanks are a lot of work, especially young ones. It does get easier with time though. Either way I understand which ever way you choose to go.

 

[saltygram]

I've been fighting prorocentrum dinos since December. Ithe first couple of months I had incorrectly identified them as Ostreopsis so my treatments were not on target. Been using the sweeper for a few weeks know with remarkable results. But still not beating them 100%.

Been dosing Microbactor7 every 4 days. I want to switch to Microbe Lift. The bottle has you dose a large amount week 1 and 2. And then smaller amounts weekly after that.

Really curious if the sweeper community if following the bottle instructions or doing something different????

 

[saltygram]

HI all, sorry for waisting your time.

Once I can get situated, will be tearing down the tank, rehoming the fish/corals and out of the hobby. I don't have the time or resources to fight this on a daily basis. Looks like for beginners, this hobby costs a fortune of time, literally a 40 hour per week job.

But I do want to send a special shout out for the UV sweeper. It's an amazing effective tool at getting rid of Dinos. But if tank husbandry and feeding are not kept in check, the Dinos will survive and prevail if left unchecked. I can't figure out the missing step and sincerely do no want to spend another 6 to 12 months figuring it out.

Really hate to see anyone leave the hobby, but I also get it. It's a very demanding hobby but when everything is clicking correctly it's so rewarding.

 

[Idech]

Been dosing Microbactor7 every 4 days. I want to switch to Microbe Lift. The bottle has you dose a large amount week 1 and 2. And then smaller amounts weekly after that.

Really curious if the sweeper community if following the bottle instructions or doing something different????

I mainly dosed Microbe lift and I dosed huge amounts, but not enough to cause a bacteria bloom. I stopped just in time. I think I dosed the equivalent of 8 months in 26 days. I was dosing daily.

I truly believe this is part of the success in my case. Along with the Live Photo, silicate and peroxyde.

 

[jonelder68]

Let me post my disclaimer as I don't want to knock any products. Some of them I like very much and as said before dinos feed on things that are very beneficial to corals.

All for reef - Similar but not the same to carbon dosing. Could potentially fuel dinos.

Special grade sand - My personal theory is it traps incredible amounts of detritus and organics not easily siphoned out with just one or two water changes.

Aquaforest salt - Typically high in iron. Potential dino fuel.

Rodi - Are you getting TDS 2 after you resins? If so its well past time to change them. I recommend changing the resins when you see them get half way used up during dino battles. There are contaminants that can still get through our rodi units that will not show on any ICP tests.

Another special grade case . I’m on my last straw and just ordered 7lbs of TBS live sand to “top dress” my special grade Dino infested sand. So far it’s been working great!

 

[jonelder68]

HI all, sorry for waisting your time.

Once I can get situated, will be tearing down the tank, rehoming the fish/corals and out of the hobby. I don't have the time or resources to fight this on a daily basis. Looks like for beginners, this hobby costs a fortune of time, literally a 40 hour per week job.

But I do want to send a special shout out for the UV sweeper. It's an amazing effective tool at getting rid of Dinos. But if tank husbandry and feeding are not kept in check, the Dinos will survive and prevail if left unchecked. I can't figure out the missing step and sincerely do no want to spend another 6 to 12 months figuring it out.

Before giving up try ordering the treasure chest sand and rox box!

Sand & Rox Box

Sand & Rox Box Unearth the hidden riches of the reef with the Sand & Rox Box! This box delivers 2 pounds of premium nano live rock and 6 pounds of ultra live sand, packed with beneficial bacteria and diverse microorganisms to kickstart your tank’s ecosystem. Perfect for new tank cycling or...

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I’ve tried every method out there! My best luck yet and seems to be working! Did 3 day black out. On the 3rd day my TBS order showed up. Added the sand and rocks to DT. Another day lights off. Then turned lights back on fully. Been 2 weeks and no signs of Dino’s. Longest lasting treatment yet. I feel bottled bacteria is snake oil. It’s short lived in our tanks. Ocean bacteria is superior! I have a hard grudge against special grade sand lately also. Seems to have a lot of Dino issues. Since adding TBS sand the sand cuc (conchs, nassarius, ceriths) have all been way more active and seem to be out grazing/stirring 24/7. Not sure if that’s any context but definitely a change from before.

 

[ataller]

When I set my current tank up in 2018 I ended up with ostreopsis. An inline UV sterilizer took care of those and left me with LCA.

Over the last 7 years I have tried everything short of removing the sand to get rid of the LCA. Nothing worked. It was so discouraging. Peroxide. Blackouts. Silica. Dosing bacteria. Dosing Phyto. Filtering sand through socks. CUC. Manual stirring. Raising N and P. Reducing photo period. Increasing temperature. Plus I am sure many others that I cannot think of.

After one treatment with the UV sweeper my LCA was 80% gone by the next day. Better results than hours and hours and $$$ over the years with 20 minutes of effort.

I am approaching 2 weeks of treatment. I have zero LCA left but I didn’t want to risk missing anything so I am finishing off the 2 weeks.

I do have special grade reef sand and I am aware there is some evidence on these forums that LCA is more common with this sand.


As long as they don’t come back I couldn’t recommend this device any more. It was actually a magic bullet in a hobby which doesn’t really have magic bullets.

I will update here if they come back after I stop sweeping.