I would think about replacing the sand bed or washing it very good. Most likely the entire bloom is not being killed. I would encourage replacing tho
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About to call it quits,
- Thread starter actik
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W1ngz
Failed Padawan
Not for your situation. If you have 3000 TDS coming in with low pressure, you need to start with an increase in the water pressure (it will improve the membrane efficiency), and probably add a second membrane and possibly an additional sediment filter.
You're going to have to produce clean water. A dual ro membrane and a couple di stages will help achieve this. Without pictures it's impossible to say what is growing in your tank. .2 phosphate is pretty high and I would think you're dealing with something other than dinos as they are usually associated with ultra low nutrients.
I hate to break it to you, but a porcupine puffer has no business being in a reef tank. They grow to 18" and will kill everything in your tank. It's just a matter of time. And if you're not careful, that fish will take off your finger. This has happened a number of times. A sailfin tang also doesn't belong in a 75 gallon tank. These are big fish, both are going to create nutrient issues and the puffer is going to constantly whack your clean up crew. The clown goby will kill any SPS coral you may have or want to have.
Finally, without qt'ing fish, it's possible they are dealing with an external or internal parasite. Healthy one day and dropping dead the next would lead me to explore the possibility of internal parasites, but it's hard to say given the source water for the tank.
I wish you luck, but I think you need to make some major changes and come up with a sound vision of what you want this system to be.
I hate to break it to you, but a porcupine puffer has no business being in a reef tank. They grow to 18" and will kill everything in your tank. It's just a matter of time. And if you're not careful, that fish will take off your finger. This has happened a number of times. A sailfin tang also doesn't belong in a 75 gallon tank. These are big fish, both are going to create nutrient issues and the puffer is going to constantly whack your clean up crew. The clown goby will kill any SPS coral you may have or want to have.
Finally, without qt'ing fish, it's possible they are dealing with an external or internal parasite. Healthy one day and dropping dead the next would lead me to explore the possibility of internal parasites, but it's hard to say given the source water for the tank.
I wish you luck, but I think you need to make some major changes and come up with a sound vision of what you want this system to be.
NeonRabbit221B
2500 Club Member
It almost sounds like swim bladder disease but it doesn't explain the coral closing up unless SBD was caused by a stressor.
If you have time today and own a multimeter check for stray voltage. Positive end in the tank and negative on the screw holding the electrical socket cover on.
Guessing to some extent but I wouldn't lean toward dinos being an issue if all of your invertebrates are don't fine. IME they are the first to start dropping.
No. It's affordable on the front end, but filter replacements will cost significantly more over time. I would just add on to the system you already have.
Off topic but what? Everything I read said they are reef safe although they like to lay their eggs on the underside of sps which can irritate or kill the sps. That's not really a concern if there isn't a mated pair though.
Edit: whoops, sorry for the double post.
On the wild reefs with big colonies and thousands to jump around on, but in a reef tank they will kill your small colonies. A search will reveal countless threads of hobbyists regretting adding them to their tank. They don't irritate SPS, they eat the tissue off the bases and branches and it's my understanding even kept singularly they will do this. There's also reports of nipping polyps and apparently they like to eat acro slime. I'd say they are not reef safe.
Keep in mind there's still a lot of bad salesmanship on the part of retailers. Take for example Live Aquaria who says the Clown Goby is reef safe, but only makes a slight mention it will nip SPS polyps. Or a Diamond Watchmen, which grows to 6 inches, can live in a 30 gallon tank. I guarantee that fish will starve to death in a 30 gallon tank.
Unfortunately, there's still bad info out there.
eggplantparrot
Valuable Member
yep can confirm. i watched mine eat a frag of random 10$ frag over 2-3 days.
Hi Actik,
Sorry to hear about your troubles, it happens to everyone at some point, but you'll get through this don't give up! I REPEAT, DON'T GIVE UP! You'll be good.
My advice would be like others:
1.) Get your water right. Sounds like you have a RODI unit just use what you have. 5-7 gallons a day will work because even at that rate you only need 12 gallons to do a 15% water change. If you can add a booster and some DI that will help. I use BRS and they have a monthly 10% off sale. Want at least 60psi in my opinion. But if your TDS is high coming out your unit, you will be fighting an uphill battle. Not dead in the water by no means, just easier if you can keep TDS as close to zero as possible.
2.) Sounds like you've determined its Dino's. Everyone is right, about getting nutrients up. Your phosphate is a little high (goal .003-.10) but I wouldn't worry too much about that now. In the future you could use Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate E to lower them to a more desirable level. Need to get your nitrates to a detectable amount. When I had Dino's my phosphate was up and I couldn't get my Nitrates to go up till I started dosing nitrates. You might just be able to feed more. Since you mentioned you also have GHA, I would order some sort of bacteria like Microbacter 7 or Dr. Tims, and some Vibrant. I think if you started dosing like 8-9 mls of this weekly you'll start beating the dino's and the GHA (won't be right away, took me like 4-5 weeks). If you can afford a Jeboa UV sterilizer (amazon) and a pump to pump the water through it (prolly under $100) this would most likely help as well, just don't have it on for like 4 hrs after the dosing of M7 and Vibrant. Remember it took weeks to get to this spot it's going to take weeks to beat it. In my experience Dino's tick off your corals which is why they might not be opened up.
3.) As for your fish dying, I would think if you had a parasite it wouldn't target certain fish and not others. Sounds like your clownish are still doing well through this whole thing. In the future though I think before adding more fish grab a cheap little tank off petco or craigslist and use your tank water you're getting rid of during a water change to fill it and put new fish in that. Then a $10 heater, little HOB filter and you'll be good to go. Change the water out weekly and keep the fish under observance for a month. If all good add them to the tank.
4.) Post some Alk, Mag and Calcium levels. This could also be why your corals are closed up. Prolly the Dino's but worth checking.
5.) Lastly, if you think something has gotten in the tank and contaminated it (i don't personally think this is the case) you can order some Poly-filter off Amazon for $10. It helps absorb contaminants int he tank like certain metals and then changes colors to show what its absorbing. I've used it once and it works and is good for peace of mind.
Again, don't give up. 99% of reefers have this happen at least once (most more) and have felt like there's no hope fighting it, but it will get better guaranteed. Going to take time. Good Luck and keep us posted!!
Sorry to hear about your troubles, it happens to everyone at some point, but you'll get through this don't give up! I REPEAT, DON'T GIVE UP! You'll be good.
My advice would be like others:
1.) Get your water right. Sounds like you have a RODI unit just use what you have. 5-7 gallons a day will work because even at that rate you only need 12 gallons to do a 15% water change. If you can add a booster and some DI that will help. I use BRS and they have a monthly 10% off sale. Want at least 60psi in my opinion. But if your TDS is high coming out your unit, you will be fighting an uphill battle. Not dead in the water by no means, just easier if you can keep TDS as close to zero as possible.
2.) Sounds like you've determined its Dino's. Everyone is right, about getting nutrients up. Your phosphate is a little high (goal .003-.10) but I wouldn't worry too much about that now. In the future you could use Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate E to lower them to a more desirable level. Need to get your nitrates to a detectable amount. When I had Dino's my phosphate was up and I couldn't get my Nitrates to go up till I started dosing nitrates. You might just be able to feed more. Since you mentioned you also have GHA, I would order some sort of bacteria like Microbacter 7 or Dr. Tims, and some Vibrant. I think if you started dosing like 8-9 mls of this weekly you'll start beating the dino's and the GHA (won't be right away, took me like 4-5 weeks). If you can afford a Jeboa UV sterilizer (amazon) and a pump to pump the water through it (prolly under $100) this would most likely help as well, just don't have it on for like 4 hrs after the dosing of M7 and Vibrant. Remember it took weeks to get to this spot it's going to take weeks to beat it. In my experience Dino's tick off your corals which is why they might not be opened up.
3.) As for your fish dying, I would think if you had a parasite it wouldn't target certain fish and not others. Sounds like your clownish are still doing well through this whole thing. In the future though I think before adding more fish grab a cheap little tank off petco or craigslist and use your tank water you're getting rid of during a water change to fill it and put new fish in that. Then a $10 heater, little HOB filter and you'll be good to go. Change the water out weekly and keep the fish under observance for a month. If all good add them to the tank.
4.) Post some Alk, Mag and Calcium levels. This could also be why your corals are closed up. Prolly the Dino's but worth checking.
5.) Lastly, if you think something has gotten in the tank and contaminated it (i don't personally think this is the case) you can order some Poly-filter off Amazon for $10. It helps absorb contaminants int he tank like certain metals and then changes colors to show what its absorbing. I've used it once and it works and is good for peace of mind.
Again, don't give up. 99% of reefers have this happen at least once (most more) and have felt like there's no hope fighting it, but it will get better guaranteed. Going to take time. Good Luck and keep us posted!!
Actik, what is your vision for this tank? Is there another tank out there you love and would like to emulate? If so, what is it? I think we need to find a goal and then develop a plan on how to achieve it.
Thats...unfortunate. I just bought one, it's been hiding for a few days now. Catching it would prove difficult.
NanoDJS
Valuable Member
I would suspect that your tank is suffocating with that bioload and only HOBs , there is a reason we take the water off the top of the tank , its for gas exchange , your surface tension is prob too high ( oils ect ) gas exchange is one of the most important things. I would get a hob overflow and throw it into a 10 or 20 g tank for a sump with an airgap so its helps keep your PH steady, this should help alot in that size tank.
Double monti 61
Well-Known Member
Hey I learned puffers are not safe for reef tanks by watching tv.
Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
You can get it down to 0 possibly, but you would have to go with a 6 or 7 stage RO/DI system, like what BRS sells.
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Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
One thing you don't want to do is chase numbers, the more changes you do to your tank, the more possibilities things can go wrong. Lets start by doing one thing at a time and not get ahead of ourselves. You can and will get thru this.
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Billldg
My Gem Tang Is Watching You
I am sorry to say, but as others have already said, the D. Sailfin tang will get to big for a 75 gal tank quickly. I am not sure on the puffer, but if sounds like, as others have said, it will get to big as well. The pictures of the water, after the change look cloudy which makes me believe, as you have stated that you have a diatom bloom. I would aim a powerhead towards the top and allow the water to be turbulent to help with gas exchange and help oxygenate the water.
Like I said before, you can and will get thru this.
#reefsquad, any other suggestions?
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