Acropora bleaching!!! PLEASE HELP!!!

[schuby]

Zero phosphate = corals starving to death. Do you have any fish?

 

[XanderPR]

Zero phosphate = corals starving to death. Do you have any fish?

Yes, 2 clowns, blue tang (already have a 75 gallon and plqns to continue to grow) and stripped dottyback. Was running Phosguard which I have removed per previous reccomendation.

 

[XanderPR]

So I guess the general consensus is to leqve it aloneaintain the stability that I have an hope for the best with my remaining SPS corals. Regardpess of the RTN showing on my digitata, coorect?

 

[stacksoner]

Start with some LPS corals and see if you can keep them alive and make them thrive for 2-3 months. If you're able to, then reward yourself with a more challenging coral like an SPS frag.

 

[XanderPR]

Start with some LPS corals and see if you can keep them alive and make them thrive for 2-3 months. If you're able to, then reward yourself with a more challenging coral like an SPS frag.

Understood, but I'm already taking care of some SPS and I am starting to loose them. I already have had my green star polyps since 4/9/2021 and purchased tge bubblegum digitata on 5/15/2021. It was doing awesome and growing until the great debacle if the QT tank and the crazy acro purchase during a recent live sale which I recieved the frags on 5/20/21. I get that I should have waited, but I am trying to save what I can and asking for suggestions on the best way to do that.

 

[SamMule]

Another thought. Get some live rock from a long established tank to help seed your tank with that magical mixture of bacteria and whatever else is on it.
Might help speed things along.

 

[XanderPR]

Another thought. Get some live rock from a long established tank to help seed your tank with that magical mixture of bacteria and whatever else is on it.
Might help speed things along.

I will try that. I should be able to go to my LFS an get some. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[blasterman]

0 phosphate will nuke montipora, especially in a young tank.

I've posted this many times, but again your tank has to have stable nutrients without a carpet of nuisance algae to enter into SPS. Doesnt matter how old the tank is. .03 to .05 phosphate and 5-10 nitrate. If you can't hover at those params without a lot of drama and gimmicks you aren't ready for SPS.

Not going to comment on the bioballs. Too tired.

 

[stacksoner]

Understood, but I'm already taking care of some SPS and I am starting to loose them. I already have had my green star polyps since 4/9/2021 and purchased tge bubblegum digitata on 5/15/2021. It was doing awesome and growing until the great debacle if the QT tank and the crazy acro purchase during a recent live sale which I recieved the frags on 5/20/21. I get that I should have waited, but I am trying to save what I can and asking for suggestions on the best way to do that.

Don't be too hard on yourself for these guys not making it. The best you can do is provide them with a stable environment and ensure parameters are in check. Not sure what your flow and lighting are like, but I would try to make them very slow and low if possible.

 

[XanderPR]

0 phosphate will nuke montipora, especially in a young tank.

I've posted this many times, but again your tank has to have stable nutrients without a carpet of nuisance algae to enter into SPS. Doesnt matter how old the tank is. .03 to .05 phosphate and 5-10 nitrate. If you can't hover at those params without a lot of drama and gimmicks you aren't ready for SPS.

Not going to comment on the bioballs. Too tired.

Thank you for the tip. I was using phosguard from seachem and did not realize it was hurting my tank. I usualy have nitrates around 5ppm right after changing water each week and around 10 to 20ppm (API test kit) nitrate when I am about to change the water, but I was focused on the QT tank as all my corals were in there so I let my main tank slide a bit. I am slowly getting back to 5-10ppm nitrate and witgout phosguard should start measuribg PO4 soon. I am feeding reef roids every day so I hope that will help.

 

[XanderPR]

Don't be too hard on yourself for these guys not making it. The best you can do is provide them with a stable environment and ensure parameters are in check. Not sure what your flow and lighting are like, but I would try to make them very slow and low if possible.

I have an AI prime 16HD running at 100% blue, royal blue, violet, and UV and 5% everything else. It ramps up at 3pm and is at 100% at 4pm, ramp down starts at 11pm and off at 12am. Flow is an AquaMedic Echodrift running at lowest speed.

 

[Hwsreef]

Everyone in this hobby made this mistake, buying fancy wwc acroporas or very rare corals too early. What I can tell you is if you go too fast on acropora most certanly u will loose all the money, that´s probaly the hardest corals to survive in a reef aquarium, they need knowledge and a very stabilished reef. I recommend Starting with at least some lps or softs, adjust parameters for months, getting to know what makes your tank parameters solid stable, them go for resistent sps like montiporas, them in another months if they are ok and incrusting than test some more advanced corals, knowing they will probaly them die even tho, for whatever reasons we don t ever know.

 

[Hincapiej4]

Thank you for the tip. I was using phosguard from seachem and did not realize it was hurting my tank. I usualy have nitrates around 5ppm right after changing water each week and around 10 to 20ppm (API test kit) nitrate when I am about to change the water, but I was focused on the QT tank as all my corals were in there so I let my main tank slide a bit. I am slowly getting back to 5-10ppm nitrate and witgout phosguard should start measuribg PO4 soon. I am feeding reef roids every day so I hope that will help.

DO NOT FEED REEF ROIDS WITHOUT CHECKING WHAT YOUR PHOSPHATE IS DOING. YOU ARE DOING WAY TOO MANY THINGS AT ONCE. CORAL DO NOT NEED TO EAT THAT MUCH. ESPECIALLY IF YOU CANT CHECK HOW MUCH NUTRIENTS YOU ARE ADDING.

 

[Tamberav]

Are you using API kit for phosphates because pretty sure that reads either 0 or 0.25 and nothing in between. We can’t really know what the number is by this test kit. 0 could really be 0.03. It’s just not sensitive.

 

[XanderPR]

DO NOT FEED REEF ROIDS WITHOUT CHECKING WHAT YOUR PHOSPHATE IS DOING. YOU ARE DOING WAY TOO MANY THINGS AT ONCE. CORAL DO NOT NEED TO EAT THAT MUCH. ESPECIALLY IF YOU CANT CHECK HOW MUCH NUTRIENTS YOU ARE ADDING.

Ok, thank you for the info. I will hold back om feeding a bit, but I am checking phosphate ans nitrate. As of yesterday they were at 0 for PO4 and 20 ppm in NO4. Was going to do my weekly 20% water change today to get the nitrate down a bit and have removed the Phosguard from the system to increase the PO4. I will test tomorrow and see what I am doing when adding the roids (already fed today, sorry).

 

[XanderPR]

Are you using API kit for phosphates because pretty sure that reads either 0 or 0.25 and nothing in between. We can’t really know what the number is by this test kit. 0 could really be 0.03. It’s just not sensitive.

Which test would you recommend. I am using All API reef kit tests and will receive Salifert Mg test in the next couple of days. Should I continue dosing 2 part to maintain Ca and dKH levels?

 

[Hincapiej4]

Alk,cal,mag > red sea, salifert, Hanna are the popular cheaper ones

No4 > salifert, red sea
Po4 > Hanna, salifert, red sea

Never dose anything without knowing what you need. We can't tell you to dose or not. Only yours test can, as long as they are accurate.

 

[XanderPR]

Alk,cal,mag > red sea, salifert, Hanna are the popular cheaper ones

No4 > salifert, red sea
Po4 > Hanna, salifert, red sea

Never dose anything without knowing what you need. We can't tell you to dose or not. Only yours test can, as long as they are accurate.

I try to keep the same levels on my tank, but the test I am using is not the best. I will probably get the salifert for the time being, but want the Hanna when I get a little more $$$. I was about to set up a 75 gallon apart from my 29 gallon (purchased everything and planned to cut holes and plumb this week), but now I feel I might just return everything (except stand as I threw away the box) and wait until I can buy a seperate sump for that tank and just keep everything seperate.

 

[Tamberav]

Which test would you recommend. I am using All API reef kit tests and will receive Salifert Mg test in the next couple of days. Should I continue dosing 2 part to maintain Ca and dKH levels?

hannah low range phos is the one I recommend. I also like Hannah alkalinity. I use Salifert for Mg, Ca, Nitrate but Red Sea is another popular brand.

I personally would not rely on API to dose 2 part. It has you count drops and that’s not a fine measurement while other test kits go by 0.1 increments.

 

[XanderPR]

hannah low range phos is the one I recommend. I also like Hannah alkalinity. I use Salifert for Mg, Ca, Nitrate but Red Sea is another popular brand.

I personally would not rely on API to dose 2 part.

Thank you! I will try to get those ASAP. Guess I am going to be returning some stuff so should be able to purchase the new tests.