Acrylic Fabrication Q & A
- Thread starter Turbo's Aquatics
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OP
OP
I think I see it now after reading the original questinon
the pane on the left only had the mask peeled back on the vertical edge. Which tells me there is no sheet under it to form a corner where 3 sheets meet. That told me the piece of black is on the inside of the clear but this didn't make sense unless it was an end panel Now I can see the blue tape might be masking?
Anyways, so if this is only an inner divider meant to block fish from viewing each other, then it's not structural and you could seal up the joint with silicone if you wanted to - that's as long as the only purpose of this panel is purely to keep water from moving through the joint and fish from seeing each other - i.e. there is no water level difference (at least, not long term) and this is not an end panel.
the pane on the left only had the mask peeled back on the vertical edge. Which tells me there is no sheet under it to form a corner where 3 sheets meet. That told me the piece of black is on the inside of the clear but this didn't make sense unless it was an end panel Now I can see the blue tape might be masking?
Anyways, so if this is only an inner divider meant to block fish from viewing each other, then it's not structural and you could seal up the joint with silicone if you wanted to - that's as long as the only purpose of this panel is purely to keep water from moving through the joint and fish from seeing each other - i.e. there is no water level difference (at least, not long term) and this is not an end panel.
The black is an end panel. I noticed this when I was going to glue on the bottom which I haven't yet. That's when I posted this.
OP
OP
Ok, sorry for all the back and forth. Yeah if that's an end panel, it's not going to give you the strongest bond unfortunatley. The chipping might be OK, but there could also be some hairline cracks that you can't see because it's black.
You have a couple options:
1) do it over
2) fill it the joint corner with Weld-on #40 after the tank is all assembled
3) put in a gusset
2 & 3 are good if you don't care what it looks like. With #3 this can be done with the liquid-thin solvent but remember that #16 and #4 or a DIY solution are not gap fillers, so that chipping area will remain, with air bubbles/pockets trapped. But that really shouldn't matter, it's not like silicone joints where air can push through the joint. But I might fill in with #16 along that corner a few times, then sand down the corner of the gusset so that it sits flat against both panes
By hand ideally, using progressively higher grit wet/dry sandpaper. Lots of rinsing of the tank and sandpaper. I may not have posted my process in this thread yet. Oh how the time flies
What is a gusset? Is that just gluing another piece of acrylic in there over the old piece?
OP
OP
Yes, a strip of something like 1/4" thick or 3/8" thick, 1' wide, fit into the corner and bonded into place. It strengthens the joint significantly. On really bad tanks, I use a 90 degree triangle rod with weld-on 40 but I don't think you're there. I'll have to dig up my pics on a 180g sump I repaired with triangle rod gussets all over, it was a wreck before
What thickness calculator are you referring to?
The material thickness certainly *can* change as in an FRP tank, the acrylic window is not part of the overall structure of the tank so thinner material is often used.
Also, depending on the height of the tank vs the height of the window, the thickness can change. Think of a 100' tall tank and you're making a window near the top and one near the bottom; the material thickness requirement at the top would be different than at the bottom. As water pressure changes - thickness requirements change.
Lastly, are you making the window to have lower deflection rates to scrape coralline? or is it going to be just a window into a tank?
James
OP
OP
Yes! We have James in the house!
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Welcome James @acrylics to R2R. It's great to have you here.
There's a protip!Slowly reading through thread, We use 2-part as it takes less time to train someone how to use it. When you get into the hundreds of items it is not practical to train everyone. I have a manager mix and check seams she can check over quite a few items before they dry. Make adjustments or save items. We have a failure rate in the 1-2% that gets trashed before finishing. This would include excessive bubbles, Improper jig placement, Dropping (yes people drop stuff all the time it is quite annoying).
We also find the finishing work takes less time when using 2 part. We use metalized tape to protect the acrylic (the tape use use for duct work). When this is placed properly there is almost no bleed so less polishing/finishing on items made.
As for the Annealing.. You are right ATM does not do this.... This was quite apparent in peters tank.. .. No one anneals in this hobby that I know of. I have only seen this working with submarine domes and some work that NASA wanted done.
Victoria M
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I have an acrylic sump that I added baffles to and I would like to make improvements to it while the system is dry. We used fast set 16 to glue the baffles but one of them bowed. I reset it and reinforced it with a thicker piece glued down to the base where it was bowing. It is not all pretty but it works. About 2 years now so I think it is good. I would like to add a sock holder , a partial lid, and another baffle to place filtermmedia. The sump is 18" deep, 16" high. Where is a good place to purchase acrylic? My Lowes carries a new acrylic, it does not say what kind of acrylic it is and I do not like how it heats and bends. I do not like it at all. sigh. no fun with acrylic lately.
About 2 years now so I think it is good. I would like to add a sock holder , a partial lid, and another baffle to place filtermmedia. The sump is 18" deep, 16" high. Where is a good place to purchase acrylic? My Lowes carries a new acrylic, it does not say what kind of acrylic it is and I do not like how it heats and bends. I do not like it at all. sigh. no fun with acrylic lately.
OP
OP
It's probably extruded, or might even by Lexan (polycarbonate). And, probably a cheap brand.
Whereabouts are you?
Whereabouts are you?
Victoria M
5000 Club Member
I think the brand is Lexan. I am near Toledo Ohio.
OP
OP
https://www.polymershapes.com/company/branch-locator/ punch in Toledo, there's a location in Maumee
https://www.lairdplastics.com/locations-list Columbus Dayton Akron (their map is not working)
Victoria M
5000 Club Member
Wow! Thank you! That is so kind of you.
Victoria M
5000 Club Member
is there an online source for acrylic you would recommend?
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