No. It is much easier for me to clamp a template to the work piece when it is flat.
Plus what happens if you make an error ( i never make one) but ya dont want to ruin the whole thing.
Acrylic Fabrication Q & A
- Thread starter Turbo's Aquatics
- Start date
-
- Tags
- acrylic diy fabrication
- Tagged users None
Plus what happens if you make an error ( i never make one) but ya dont want to ruin the whole thing.
I see your question was already answered.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2017
- Messages
- 156
- Reaction score
- 99
I have made it all the way to the end and think I have picked up a unbelievable amount of info I’m wanting to build this drop off tank I’m planning on using a full piece front to back on bottom and top just to reduce the chances of a failure what would be a good order of assembly and what thickness should I go with. I also have a commercial amazon prime account and have been able to locate Photographers' Formulary Glacial Acetic Acid and lab-grade methylene chloride will that work for bonding
Right now my acrylic tank is up and running, I built it as @Floyd R Turbo recommendations. I appreciate a lot the information share in this topic as well the responses to my questions. Until now I do not have any problem related with the tank, and the front bow is minimal. In a very summarized way, I’m very very happy with my new acrylic tank (200g).
In short term I’m planning to add some hermits, but I’m a little confused if it will scratch the Acrylic with the its shell, sorry this is not an acrylic fabrication question, but I don’t find any relate information in the forum, I hope you could help me before I have a scratch problem
In short term I’m planning to add some hermits, but I’m a little confused if it will scratch the Acrylic with the its shell, sorry this is not an acrylic fabrication question, but I don’t find any relate information in the forum, I hope you could help me before I have a scratch problem
Last edited:
Great news. Its always fun when you can do it yourself.
I have never had any issues with livestock scratching my tank. I have had hermits, urchins, snails and blennies. All have been on the tank at some point and i have never experienced any scratches.
All scratches are caused by me doing stupid stuff.
OP
OP
Generally, these should work just fine.
Unfortunately I don't know the ins & outs of building a dropoff tank, someone else might be able to chime in on this one.
My gut would say that you kinda have to build this the reverse of what you normally would in a way - bond the ends/bottoms/vertical transition as step one (and a tricky step one, lots of jigs and such), then bond the side panels to that assembly, then bond the top on last. But I could be over-thinking. It seems to me that the most difficult part of doing it the standard way would be avoiding the creation of a stress point at the inner corner of the drop transition from shallow to deep. I can't think of a good way to piece that together in order to maintain a seal/seam...
Hi All,
After some expert input re a diy AIO filter assy.
Here's a couple of doodles of the filter so you know what I'm on about .....
The water level will be 400mm and the longest unsupported span is about 150mm will 5mm cast be sufficient strength wise?
Is there any issue with routing edges at 45 deg rather than doing the traditional butt joint for the 2 external corners to create a more seamless look?
I'm struggling to find the correct solvent would this be ok? https://www.edplastics.co.uk/Perspex data/BOSTIK EVODE/Tensol 12 TDS.pdf
After some expert input re a diy AIO filter assy.
Here's a couple of doodles of the filter so you know what I'm on about .....
The water level will be 400mm and the longest unsupported span is about 150mm will 5mm cast be sufficient strength wise?
Is there any issue with routing edges at 45 deg rather than doing the traditional butt joint for the 2 external corners to create a more seamless look?
I'm struggling to find the correct solvent would this be ok? https://www.edplastics.co.uk/Perspex data/BOSTIK EVODE/Tensol 12 TDS.pdf
@OllieNZ ,
First off there is a difference between cast acrylic (Perspex) and cell cast acrylic in strength and density. Perspex is I believe a continuous cast acrylic that is completely unsuitable for aquarium construction. Polyone cell cast may be available in your market place. Please investigate the actual acrylic you select and make sure it is cell cast. If the supplier can not guarantee that walk away. Continuous cast acrylic is really only suitable for dry use like signs and displays as it is much higher monomer content. I also would recommend the formula given on this tread for mixing your own solvent. In the absence of making your own I would recommend Scigrip #3 or #4 for best results.
Making a mitered cut with precision and making a good quality joint is much more difficult than a 90 degree joint and much harder to control the bonding process in terms of solvent welding. It can be done but requires much more precision in the cutting (CNC is highly recommended) using precision ground tooling. I would not attempt this unless you have access to a CNC mill or router.
Your water depth is only part of the information needed to calculate panel thickness. We also need to know the longest panel in the aquarium to calculate the proper thickness. Also need to know if there is a bonded on top or if the aquarium is rimless in design. The filter can be made out of 6mm no problem. 5mm might be thin depending on the material used.
First off there is a difference between cast acrylic (Perspex) and cell cast acrylic in strength and density. Perspex is I believe a continuous cast acrylic that is completely unsuitable for aquarium construction. Polyone cell cast may be available in your market place. Please investigate the actual acrylic you select and make sure it is cell cast. If the supplier can not guarantee that walk away. Continuous cast acrylic is really only suitable for dry use like signs and displays as it is much higher monomer content. I also would recommend the formula given on this tread for mixing your own solvent. In the absence of making your own I would recommend Scigrip #3 or #4 for best results.
Making a mitered cut with precision and making a good quality joint is much more difficult than a 90 degree joint and much harder to control the bonding process in terms of solvent welding. It can be done but requires much more precision in the cutting (CNC is highly recommended) using precision ground tooling. I would not attempt this unless you have access to a CNC mill or router.
Your water depth is only part of the information needed to calculate panel thickness. We also need to know the longest panel in the aquarium to calculate the proper thickness. Also need to know if there is a bonded on top or if the aquarium is rimless in design. The filter can be made out of 6mm no problem. 5mm might be thin depending on the material used.
Last edited:
Sorry should have been more specific. The tank itself is glass, only the filter assy is acrylic. From reading the acrylic sellers website they offer various options and the cast they sell is cell cast not continuous (they also offer extruded too) I can double check though.
Bonding acrylic to glass tanks is difficult due the the fact that silo one does not actually bond to the acrylic. It is a mechanical bond at best. I have seen quite a few failures by trying to bond acrylic and glass.
Similar threads
