AF-RS170 Reefer 170 automatic roller
- Thread starter kasso187
- Start date
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Nice, they made one specifically for the 170. This looks to be very new (a week or so) but I am looking forward to seeing how it works for you.
(Some installed pictures Here for those interested outside of the Marine Depot Page)
I wonder if you could shift the ATO container far enough forward (with a brace to hold it up) to have both (for those of us using it as a fuge)
(Some installed pictures Here for those interested outside of the Marine Depot Page)
I wonder if you could shift the ATO container far enough forward (with a brace to hold it up) to have both (for those of us using it as a fuge)
WallysWorld
Active Member
Would love to hear people’s experience with this!
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kasso187
Active Member
Ya I was very excited to see a reefer 170 specific upgrade. I do also have a Klir 4" (not installed) that I was dreading modding my sump to make it work. I jumped on this solution right away.
I'll take some measurements when I get it installed. Maybe it can overhang the existing filter sock holder and be propped up with pvc or something.
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kasso187
Active Member
Just got it installed today. there's only about 6" from the end of the motor assembly/wires to the inner front wall of the sump. I don't have the factory ATO handy to measure, but I doubt it will work with this unit.
Thanks! Yeah it is ~9" long so it won't fit.
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kasso187
Active Member
I just wanted to give everyone a quick update. When I installed the float switch bracket as shown in the instructions (see FIGURE 1), my filter roll looked barely saturated at all. (see FIGURE 2). I suspect that since the float literally turns the motor on and off with no added logic controller, the factory position can accidentally activate the float before it is able to fully saturate.
Before installing my second roll, I rotated the float switch bracket 180 degrees so that the float switch can sit at a higher position. After I did that, its a night and day difference in the roll saturation. (see FIGURE 3). With the float at the new higher position, there is still plenty of height before the chamber would overflow if clogged. Now I can say this unit is performing exactly as I expect it to.
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
Before installing my second roll, I rotated the float switch bracket 180 degrees so that the float switch can sit at a higher position. After I did that, its a night and day difference in the roll saturation. (see FIGURE 3). With the float at the new higher position, there is still plenty of height before the chamber would overflow if clogged. Now I can say this unit is performing exactly as I expect it to.
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
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kasso187
Active Member
I think with the float higher, I should get 2 months +. Also keep in mind, the consensus with most of these auto rollers, regardless of brand, they generally delete quickly in the beginning, then the time between rolls begins to stretch out. Unless of course you have major changes in feeding or other detritus.
Sordfish
Active Member
Since I don’t have edit permission, I created another post to clarify my question. RS 250 v.3 sump has reversed the position of the baffle onto which the hanging box hangs. Therefore, the box would have to be flipped 180 degrees and hang onto the baffle since the baffle is to the right of the roller as opposed to the left in your case. The placement of the pipes and the motor would remain the same. I guess the short version of the question is can the roller be slid around in it’s hanging box and flipped in it’s hanging box, or is the roller affixed to a specific position and orientation in the hanging box. If affixed to a specific position in the hanging box, it would not work with v3 sumps. Below is a rough hand drawn illustration of what I mean. Thanks
GaryT
New Member
Hi K, I just joined R2R today, my RS Reefer 170 gets delivered tomorrow. Now that you've been using roller for a while do you still like? There's practically no info of people using it? Thanks for any info.
dlish89
Community Member
I am with GaryT I just joined today because of this thread. I just set up my 170. I am getting back into the hobby after many years off and these rollers look great as I have always hated filter socks. I am hoping kasso can update us on how its working out. Also I am curious why the drain tubes need to be cut? Does cutting the pipes create water noise? And how is the rolls changed? I assume the roller section just lifts out but the box stays in the sump? TIX
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kasso187
Active Member
Since I don’t have edit permission, I created another post to clarify my question. RS 250 v.3 sump has reversed the position of the baffle onto which the hanging box hangs. Therefore, the box would have to be flipped 180 degrees and hang onto the baffle since the baffle is to the right of the roller as opposed to the left in your case. The placement of the pipes and the motor would remain the same. I guess the short version of the question is can the roller be slid around in it’s hanging box and flipped in it’s hanging box, or is the roller affixed to a specific position and orientation in the hanging box. If affixed to a specific position in the hanging box, it would not work with v3 sumps. Below is a rough hand drawn illustration of what I mean. Thanks
unfortunately this wouldn't work since the unit is asymmetrical.
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kasso187
Active Member
yes its still been working great for me. Just to give you some anecdotal "proof", Marine Depot ran out of replacement rolls for a while and I didn't have this thing running for at least 2 months (due to not having any rolls on hand. In that time frame, my display became noticeably dirtier more rapidly. IE, more particles in the column and algae buildup on the glass every 1.5-2 days. I also had a minor GHA outbreak during this period. The only thing that changed in that time frame was the roller being down. Previously, my system has been stable with 0.03 phosphate and <5 nitrate (i have to dose nitrate every 2 weeks).
The pipes have to be cut to make clearance for the collection chamber. The only thing I would do different if I had to install another...I would cut the pipes with a bit of a slash cut instead of straight cut (slash towards front of tank; see image below).
There's no additional noise associated with doing this, since both pipes remain submerged in water (with or without the roller installed). The collection chamber (white plastic basket) is separate from the roll carrier (clear plastic), and so the roll carrier lifts up to replace the roll. Its a bit of a PITA (why I would do slash cut), but very doable leaving the collector in tact.
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