Alage? ID

[Beardo]

Got some pictures and videos

Definitely Ostreopsis.

I know I mentioned it previously in the other thread but my dinos blew up after a few weeks of dosing N and P where initially they decreased. Not sure the reason but my remaining corals took a hard hit during this time.
Hopefully you can get that UV up and running as that was really the tipping point for me.

 

[rtparty]

Definitely Ostreopsis.

I know I mentioned it previously in the other thread but my dinos blew up after a few weeks of dosing N and P where initially they decreased. Not sure the reason but my remaining corals took a hard hit during this time.
Hopefully you can get that UV up and running as that was really the tipping point for me.

I'm interested in what that "blob" is in the one video. That was kind of cool to see enter the frame as I was taking pictures so I caught a video.

The UV is running! In short it took some teflon on tape (not on the threads) and then silicone. While silicone won't bond plastic that wasn't my goal. After I put some teflon tape on the "slip" portions of the barb (they call it hosetail in the manual) it stopped most of the leaks. So after 30 minutes of running I only had a tiny leak that just dripped into the sump. I turned everything off, dried what I could and used silicone to plug the gap between the hosetail and the nut that goes over it.

I would like to say I'm surprised that a Jebao product wasn't up to par but I'm not. Hopefully everything lasts long enough to kill off the dinos and I'll save up for a better UV sterilizer down the road. If the sterilizer fixes my issue, which I totally believe it will, I'll run a UV sterilizer 24/7 from here on out. Just not a Jebao

 

[reeferfoxx]

The QC gods were not with you in that purchase. A lot of people in the dino threads use jebao without issues. My whole tank has been running jebao products for 2 years now. Only one powerhead was replaced. Not because it failed but because it's performance reduced(motor became slower than it should have been). Luckily jebao sells out of warranty parts for cheap. I replaced the motor for $20.

 

[Beardo]

I'm interested in what that "blob" is in the one video. That was kind of cool to see enter the frame as I was taking pictures so I caught a video.

The UV is running! In short it took some teflon on tape (not on the threads) and then silicone. While silicone won't bond plastic that wasn't my goal. After I put some teflon tape on the "slip" portions of the barb (they call it hosetail in the manual) it stopped most of the leaks. So after 30 minutes of running I only had a tiny leak that just dripped into the sump. I turned everything off, dried what I could and used silicone to plug the gap between the hosetail and the nut that goes over it.

I would like to say I'm surprised that a Jebao product wasn't up to par but I'm not. Hopefully everything lasts long enough to kill off the dinos and I'll save up for a better UV sterilizer down the road. If the sterilizer fixes my issue, which I totally believe it will, I'll run a UV sterilizer 24/7 from here on out. Just not a Jebao

Not sure what that "blob is but I'm always amazed at the diversity of life I find under the scope.

Glad you were able to get the UV up and running. Blasting the rocks daily after lights out will help get the dinos in the water column.

I personally use AquaUV sterilizers. They are spendy for sure but are quality units.

 

[rtparty]

The QC gods were not with you in that purchase. A lot of people in the dino threads use jebao without issues. My whole tank has been running jebao products for 2 years now. Only one powerhead was replaced. Not because it failed but because it's performance reduced(motor became slower than it should have been). Luckily jebao sells out of warranty parts for cheap. I replaced the motor for $20.

It's just a personal thing of mine to try and not support them. No problem with anyone that does. We all reef out own way and what we can afford.

Back in 2006 I started my first tank and was on a tight budget and I had no experience with anything in the hobby. I bought an Odyssea (I believe they were under a different name even) T5 fixture because "how could the Tek fixture be that much better", right? That fixture was the biggest piece of junk I've ever dealt with. When I later upgraded, I tore it apart and what I found inside was unbelievable. Wires were hot glued all over. Things weren't properly grounded. Bare wire was strung throughout. At that point, all the issues I had made complete sense. A few years later I tried some of their other products to find most die within 6 months or so.

I've personally avoided all Jebao (or whatever name they have to switch to) since then. Again, I don't fault what anyone else does. Not my money or tank. I try to support the good guys in the hobby. But for this, I wasn't prepared to drop $400 on a good setup. That's why if this works, I'll save for an upgrade later. If it lasts 12 months, that's a win in my book.

 

[rtparty]

Lights have only been on for a couple hours but the tank looks so good after a full night of UV! The water is crystal clear and no dinos floating around anywhere. Sand still has a small dusting of them so I will blow that area off tonight after lights out.

Crossing my fingers!

 

[reeferfoxx]

Lights have only been on for a couple hours but the tank looks so good after a full night of UV! The water is crystal clear and no dinos floating around anywhere. Sand still has a small dusting of them so I will now that area off tonight after lights out.

Crossing my fingers!

Crossing fingers with you!

 

[rtparty]

Clean up crew has been beefed up quite a bit. About 10-12 Astraea snails and 3 Trochus snails added today.

I may have too many snails overall but we shall see. I've got at least 3 patches of hair algae popping up so I'm hoping the new snails will at least keep others from taking hold. I can manually remove the small patches when needed. Right now I'm keeping my hands out of the tank best I can and letting it continue to mature and stabilize

 

[rtparty]

Update time...

Alright, time for another ID if you guys can. This is the new brown stuff growing on my sand. No air bubbles, no super fast spreading, photosynthetic, and it does not get stringy. I don't have a picture of the patch in question, just the microscope pics and videos.

Part 3


Part 4


Part 5

 

[rtparty]

Well, these are starting to really take over my sand and will soon be around my corals. Upping phosphate doesn't seem to be working and hair algae is really starting to take off. The increased CUC hasn't seemed to help in this regard.

I am heading to the LFS for some chaeto and hopefully an urchin.

 

[mcarroll]

Clean up crew has been beefed up quite a bit. About 10-12 Astraea snails and 3 Trochus snails added today.

I may have too many snails overall but we shall see. I've got at least 3 patches of hair algae popping up so I'm hoping the new snails will at least keep others from taking hold.

Well, these are starting to really take over my sand

Upping phosphate doesn't seem to be working and hair algae is really starting to take off. The increased CUC hasn't seemed to help in this regard.

Letting it take over is not really the goal, but it's also only been a few weeks – things are definitely expected to get uglier before the get prettier. This can be thought of as basically a whole new break-in cycle of uglies, only with a full load of animals and massive daily feedings to drive it.

If the CUC is eating it, but the algae is still advancing, then you do not have enough snails. Make sure they are eating it though.

Have you looked at your hairy algae under the scope yet to verify what you're dealing with there?

Are the snails possibly lethargic at all from also munching toxic dino's?

 

[rtparty]

Letting it take over is not really the goal, but it's also only been a few weeks – things are definitely expected to get uglier before the get prettier. This can be thought of as basically a whole new break-in cycle of uglies, only with a full load of animals and massive daily feedings to drive it.

If the CUC is eating it, but the algae is still advancing, then you do not have enough snails. Make sure they are eating it though.

Have you looked at your hairy algae under the scope yet to verify what you're dealing with there?

Are the snails possibly lethargic at all from also munching toxic dino's?

The snails don't touch the GHA. I've never had snails that eat GHA though. I haven't tried a Mexican Turbo yet. I'd rather get an urchin as I've had much better luck with them eating GHA and staying alive long term.

I haven't put the GHA under the scope. It's not bryopsis for sure. Just standard GHA. I've had it in the past in other tanks. Comes off the rock fairly easy if you pull on it or hit it with a toothbrush.

I am waiting on an urchin currently from my LFS and will also get some more Astraea snails while there. I've got close to 20 Astraea and 15 cerith right now. None of them seem lethargic and from what I've read, Amphidinium is usually non toxic. My scooter blenny picks pods off the dinos and doesn't seem to be affected at all.

I'm due for another phosphate test tonight and will see how that's going. On Monday it was 0.18ppm. It will be interesting to see how much it has dropped with no dosing.

 

[mcarroll]

If the Astrea aren't touching the algae, then adding more might not be the best course. Something different would seem to make sense, as long as you have options.

IMO try those Turbo's – 1-2 just as a trial.

Do you have Crown Tops available?

You could even try some crabs, but I'm generally not a fan. Hermits, Sally Lightfoots, Emeralds...whatever makes the most sense. I think with any of them, the smaller the better. If they make the difference during this algae bloom then I like em! :) And at least most of them aren't hard to collect and get rid of later if you wanted to.

 

[rtparty]

Time to bring this old thread back and it is not for good reasons...

The tank looks absolutely terrible. Hair algae has completely taken over and nothing is stopping it. It is slowly killing corals at this point.

I've added an urchin, snails of all varieties including an Mexican turbo, ran multiple days of no light, scrubbed the rock with a toothbrush and got all floating pieces best I can and watched my nutrients closely. Nothing is working.

I even ordered Fluco and have done 2 doses of that. The hair algae doesn't even care it's in there. I am to the point of tearing down and selling livestock off. I'll keep equipment for now in case I want to go with a FW setup or something. I'm just done fighting this tank at this point.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Sorry to hear that :(

I've been here before. Maybe just let the tank run for a month or two without any intervention. Just keep water topped off and switch out socks or filter pads when need be. Sometimes algae just needs to consume till it cant. Thats something I did once and one day it just started sluffing off. At that point I used a tooth brush to help it and it never grew back. If it were me, i would just let the tank do what it needs to. This will also give you time to think about the decision.

 

[Jose Mayo]

In conditions of low nutrients some organisms predominate over the others, for their better adaptive weapons. Very low phosphates appear to favor dinoflagellate blooms and, if the limiting is nitrate, this seems to favor cyanobacteria. Some strains of filamentous cyanobacteria are very similar to GHA in their visual appearance and are often confused; Lyngbya sp is one of them and is the most similar, being green, the other is Calothrix sp, but tends to be brown or more discolored.

If the "filamentous algae" in the rocks and sand are cyanobacteria, they usually resist Fluconazole, but are sensitive to Azithromycin.

When I used this medicine at a dose of 1 mg / liter in a single dose, I did not notice any effect on the animals in the aquarium and only noticed a slight rise in nitrites, with no ammonia or increased nitrates during the time of use, but still, for possible specificities and differences between each aquarium, whenever antibiotics are used the biological filter should be monitored closely, measuring ammonia, nitrite and nitrate throughout the treatment, to avoid surprises ...

As usual, when using medicines, the skimmer cup and the activated carbon or correlates should be removed so that the medicines are not withdrawn from the water before doing their work. The UV filter also has the ability to degrade the medication, so it should be turned off.

Against cyanobacteria, Azithromycin usually does its job in 4 to 5 days. After the cyan has disappeared, it is expected to be 02 days, before returning the skimmer cup and activated carbon to the line. In 24 to 48 hours the medicine has been withdrawn from the water column and after a partial water exchange of 25% to rebalance the parameters, the aquarium can return to its routine.

Best regards

 

[rtparty]

Sorry to hear that :(

I've been here before. Maybe just let the tank run for a month or two without any intervention. Just keep water topped off and switch out socks or filter pads when need be. Sometimes algae just needs to consume till it cant. Thats something I did once and one day it just started sluffing off. At that point I used a tooth brush to help it and it never grew back. If it were me, i would just let the tank do what it needs to. This will also give you time to think about the decision.

That's basically where I've been since 2018 started. I got an ATO, keep it topped off and feed the fish.

Cyanobacteria is back as well but no sign of dinos.

My next course of action might be to find some good live rock and take all this stuff out plus the sand. Then run a bare bottom tank.

I could put all this rock in a garbage can and let it sit in the dark with flow for months. It would kill off all the algae plus some but might be able to be used later by someone else

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

That's basically where I've been since 2018 started. I got an ATO, keep it topped off and feed the fish.

Cyanobacteria is back as well but no sign of dinos.

My next course of action might be to find some good live rock and take all this stuff out plus the sand. Then run a bare bottom tank.

I could put all this rock in a garbage can and let it sit in the dark with flow for months. It would kill off all the algae plus some but might be able to be used later by someone else

What brand of flunonazole are you using ?
What was the dose?

Forgive me, but how’s old is the tank ?

 

[rtparty]

What brand of flunonazole are you using ?
What was the dose?

Forgive me, but how’s old is the tank ?

Fluco cam from Payless Pet Products or something like that. It's where everyone else was recommending to get it and what they used.

It is one capsule per 10g of water. I probably have close to 65g of water so I went with 7 capsules both times. I didn't run the sterilizer, carbon or skimmer either time. So I effectively put in twice the dose, spaced out. Close to 2 weeks between doses. The last dose went in on Tuesday or Wednesday.

The tank is nearing the one year mark since full setup. Rock was curing for about 3 months before that

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Fluco cam from Payless Pet Products or something like that. It's where everyone else was recommending to get it and what they used.

It is one capsule per 10g of water. I probably have close to 65g of water so I went with 7 capsules both times. I didn't run the sterilizer, carbon or skimmer either time. So I effectively put in twice the dose, spaced out. Close to 2 weeks between doses. The last dose went in on Tuesday or Wednesday.

The tank is nearing the one year mark since full setup. Rock was curing for about 3 months before that

Ok. That’s the stuff I used.
Ime , it took a full two to 3 weeks before the gha I had did anything.
The bryo on the other hand was toast in a week. After a month or the. 2q days I still had some gha.

What we here are doing with the flucon is the thicker the plant, the more drug and longer it takes.

Gha , fwiw, or roughly classified by most us hobbiests, there’s a dozen or more that are actually quite thick.
Bryo in many cases is actually called a gha.

I honesty wouldn’t be surprised if you saw progress this week.