Algae help

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Well if you stop doing that the nutrients still there when i got that issues i changed 50 % of water every week for 6 times and alga and cyano were gone also added GFO reactor and more cleaning crew
Did you check out your rodi filters lately?
No only red if you have to
Much white also , lower you white

What did you add to your cleaning crew, RODI is at 0 TDS. My white is already very low, is it not?
 
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It sounds like @crabs_mcjones gave some pretty sound advice. I would also suggest using Lanthanum Chloride to get the phosphates down then running the GFO to keep the Phosphate down.
I've thought of this in the past. What do you recommend? Buying that still that costs $20 in a 4 oz bottle or the bulk stuff for pools?
 

oscargrumete61

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Well if i was you this will be my plan
1 lower my period light time
2. Feed half or lees mycis
3. Change 50 % water for 6 weeks
4. Add GFO
 

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I've thought of this in the past. What do you recommend? Buying that still that costs $20 in a 4 oz bottle or the bulk stuff for pools?

I found that the Agent Green link worked best for me. Spend the money and not kill off an expensive reef project using a substitute;):)
 

oscargrumete61

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So now look my tank no algae and no cyano
6451b3bf23000aa354a4ce0bb96897f1.jpg
 
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I found that the Agent Green link worked best for me. Spend the money and not kill off an expensive reef project using a substitute;):)
I've currently got a bottle of some stuff that would be useful. I'll run out of that first, thank you for some useful advice!
 
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So now look my tank no algae and no cyano
6451b3bf23000aa354a4ce0bb96897f1.jpg
I see your tank is very young while your idea may have worked on your system. With the size of my fish and tank, one cube of mysis is needed. I have a nicely oversized skimmer and plenty of coral, my lighting period is already having an effect on the growth of my coral. I'm down to 6 hours TOTAL lighting throughout the day. 50% water changed is unreasonable on my size tank to do weekly. Yours is easy to do with a few 5-gallon buckets, mine would require two trash cans. I do appreciate your advice though.
 

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I've currently got a bottle of some stuff that would be useful. I'll run out of that first, thank you for some useful advice!
Your welcome, and let use know how things turn out:)
 

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I've been on the offensive against algae as of late. Here's my current battle strategy:

1. Run BRS high capacity gfo at half strength per directions. Change weekly if testing shows no drop or rise in Po4
2. Run BRS rox .08 carbon at half strength. Change weekly.
3. Blow off all rock scape every Friday with turkey baster and run Vortechs in NTM. Stir it up baby
4. Clean skimmer cup every day. A clean skimmer neck is a happy neck. lol
5. Only do water changes when nitrates rise. No need to add more trace elements to fuel algae growth.
6. Limit feedings. I tend to overfeed.
7. Change filter socks every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
8. Beef up cleaning crew


It seems to be having an effect. Slowly, but that was my aim. Slowly lower nutrients over time to not shock my system.
 

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I have said for some places that when you do everything and everything fails, you can still try medicine. I have sometimes solved my cyano problem with azithromycin at a dosage of 1.0 mg / liter in a single dose. My tank has 500 liters and I needed only one 500 mg tablet. It is safe for animals at that dose and virtually does not alter the biological filter, it simply ends up with cyano within four days from dosing. Cyano can always return if the parameters favor it, it is not the fault of the aquarist, it is in the air.

Whenever you use single-dose medications, it is important to remove the collection cup from the skimmer and also the activated charcoal, you do not want the medicine to be removed before you do your work. Using azithromycin, after two days without the appearance of cyano, the skimmer cup and activated charcoal can be returned ... within 24 hours of charcoal and skimmer action there will be no active dose azithromycin circulating in the aquarium.

For the application, simply cut the tablet in the proper proportion of the dosage; for 500 liters a tablet, for 250 liters for half and so on. It is not necessary to grind the tablet for the dosage, it dissolves by itself in the water of the aquarium, just throw it in some place of the display with good circulation. The brand I used in my aquarium is Zitromax, from the Pfizer lab, for human use.

The algae seen in the photos are filamentous and probably Derbésia with some Bryopsis ... they are sensitive to Fluconazole, as you already know and with the protocol you already know, but first it is advisable to treat cyano so that it does not leave control.

Best Regards
 

Cory

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Feeding 1 cube of mysis daily, nori as needed (is not left in tank), only use live rock, the tank has been up nearly 2 years... I'll look into GFO, my temporary solution is Chemipure Blue currently.




I'm going to assume you tried to say feeding and to that I say, one cube every day should not be doing this. Or in the case, you meant fiddling, I don't jack around with it daily, only water changes. Light time is already down to a 6-hour photoperiod. I also have an IceCap 3K on the tank, so flow should not an issue; however, I think I could change my flow profile a bit to have more time in reverse, shooting under the pump, which is where the bulk of the cyano is. I also have a CUC that has been there long enough to start repopulating, I'm good there as well.



I have no red spectrum in my tank, except for ambient lighting. How would you suggest going about vinegar dosing? Is there a thread I could look at?

Thank you all for your time

I dose plain white vinegar at 50ml a day for my 200 net gallons. Id search google.
 

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Try adding an algae scrubber. Santa Monica filtration have some great options, I have a small one on my AIO and it works great.

Adding some carbon and GFO will help as well, an easy option is chemipure blue.

Can also try adding some emerald crabs. They do a great job at eating all types of algae.
 

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