Another euphillya (frogspawn) question

SchrutesReefs

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Got this peach frogspawn a couple months ago. It was almost split into 2 heads when I picked it up from my lfs. It started out great as they usually do. I had a toadstool “melt” about 6” away and I know that leathers can irritate other corals when they die. The toadstool croaked about 3 weeks ago. It is probably a coincidence but the toadstool has not opened since then, I have tried relocating it to more flow/l and light, as well as less flow and light. It also still hasn’t completely split yet. Just seeing if the thought is that it’s a goner?
Perams:
Sg 1.025
Temp 78.1
Ph 8 (tank has always been at this level)
Alk 9
Mag 1400
Calcium 450
Nitrates 15
Phos .05
Tank is 6mo. Other lps are plump and happy, leathers and zoas growing nicely. Monti caps are outgrowing their plugs.
2 clowns
1 tailspot blenny
Pink streaked wrasse
Watchman/tiger pistol pair

3F85BD40-0CD3-457E-9095-CD5928A0A46B.jpeg

0A3AFD5D-6A0B-4F92-BAF8-DA758492F2AF.jpeg

Before
0889DEFF-B877-4611-BD8F-42847CC16135.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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Note, mag is a little high ( you want 1300 range) . These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
 

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