Empire
Active Member
I have no idea. I haven’t gotten that far. was hoping you were going to figure it out.
Any Trigger Platinum sump users out there?
- Thread starter amebcia
- Start date
- Tagged users None
orionstrident
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2020
- Messages
- 162
- Reaction score
- 148
The O-rings are for the probe holder you use the thicker vs thinner based on how large the probes are vs the slot you put them in. Its a bit of trial and error. As for the screws I think the long ones hold the roller mat stuff and the return cover and the short ones for other things I cant remember. But you should end up with 2 extra of each screw.
Empire
Active Member
Sorry for additional context - unless I’m missing something, I only see 2 floats. One in the drain and the other in the return. I probably screwed up the float levels but correct me if I’m wrong - water level in drain rises due to clogged / dirty roller mat, level in the return falls since more water is in the drain. Wouldn’t this trigger my ato bc the ato thinks there’s evap?
Damion123
Active Member
From what I can see. In the drain area there are two float switches on the same magnet. The lower one is supposed to be above the water level. When the level rises the first switch causes the filter motor to turn. The other switch in the drain area and the one in the return area, are there to stop the roller motor in the event you shut off the return pump and the water level rises.
ntableman
Community Member
I have the 39" sump. The controller broke, they said they'd send me a new one. Never got it. So I made one out of an ESP8266, if anyone wants the code and diagram let me know. One advantage is that I can now send out a MQTT message that records when it advances. This allows me to approximate how much is left.
I kind of love the sump, honestly. I dumped my homemade one. I was so sick of filter socks. I think one of the issues I am pondering is can you reuse the rolls by washing them somehow. I hate to just throw them out.... here is a mini map of where the sensors are and such.
I kind of love the sump, honestly. I dumped my homemade one. I was so sick of filter socks. I think one of the issues I am pondering is can you reuse the rolls by washing them somehow. I hate to just throw them out.... here is a mini map of where the sensors are and such.
Damion123
Active Member
I like your set up. Is there a reason you put your skimmer before the refuge? I know there is always that debate of which goes first. Also is there a reason you have your ATO in, put in side the skimmer section? I have the dosing ports in the return section, so initially I thought that would be the easiest way to go.I have the 39" sump. The controller broke, they said they'd send me a new one. Never got it. So I made one out of an ESP8266, if anyone wants the code and diagram let me know. One advantage is that I can now send out a MQTT message that records when it advances. This allows me to approximate how much is left.
I kind of love the sump, honestly. I dumped my homemade one. I was so sick of filter socks. I think one of the issues I am pondering is can you reuse the rolls by washing them somehow. I hate to just throw them out.... here is a mini map of where the sensors are and such.
ntableman
Community Member
Hmmm, I never thought about where to place the skimmer. In thinking about this I am not sure it matters too much given it is one big open water area. But I know how people get with these sorts of things. I am going to just say that I put it there because that is how Trigger has it labeled in the instructions! HAHAHA!
My trigger sump has 4 inputs for the dosing. I have inputs for
1 - slow water swap - a dual-headed pump, so 2 tubes
2 - kalk/alk/ca/trace/mg - 5 tubes
3 - ATO in - 1 tube
So I need 6, which means 2 are just hanging out...I could dump the trace but still, I have 2 more than the sump has for ports. Short version: it is where it is so it doesn't dump freshwater into the refuge and doesn't g right into the tank via the pump. But now that I think about it the lag in pumping it into there and when it raises the level in the pump section is a thing, but never noticed it as an issue. Again...I guess the short answer is, no real reason.
I am trying to make a way to insulate the sump to help save energy as it is in my basement which is about 65F all the time. So I am going to re-run all kinds of things shortly to allow me to make a hard foam insulation cover. So this seems like a good time to change some of the things I didn't put a lot of thought into.
But some good questions
My trigger sump has 4 inputs for the dosing. I have inputs for
1 - slow water swap - a dual-headed pump, so 2 tubes
2 - kalk/alk/ca/trace/mg - 5 tubes
3 - ATO in - 1 tube
So I need 6, which means 2 are just hanging out...I could dump the trace but still, I have 2 more than the sump has for ports. Short version: it is where it is so it doesn't dump freshwater into the refuge and doesn't g right into the tank via the pump. But now that I think about it the lag in pumping it into there and when it raises the level in the pump section is a thing, but never noticed it as an issue. Again...I guess the short answer is, no real reason.
I am trying to make a way to insulate the sump to help save energy as it is in my basement which is about 65F all the time. So I am going to re-run all kinds of things shortly to allow me to make a hard foam insulation cover. So this seems like a good time to change some of the things I didn't put a lot of thought into.
But some good questions
I got the platinum 39. I replaced a recently purchased emerald 39 with 2 Klirs. SOOOO MUCH BETTER... the klirs allowed too much bypass. My sump was filled with crap every month plus the paper would tare when ever a snail went down. I like how the platinum keeps its fleece pressed against the walls of the chamber with guides and rollers. As for the price, it cost exactly the same as my setup before. 500 for the 39 emerald. And 250 times 2 for the klirs. 1k. 39 plantum is 1k. Just wish I had gotten it first instead of me having to try to sell the emerald and klirs. Also changing the fleece on the platinum Soooo much easier than changing the rolls on the Klirs.
BMW540
Active Member
I would not recommend this sump until they work out some issues they should have addressed in their “over a year and a half” of testing. Mine has been in use for ~2 months and the motor can no longer pull the fleece forward. It will only wind if I pull it through manually; once it is taught, the motor bogs down and stops. I’ve come down to my tank several times to an almost overflowing first chamber due to this.
hmm setting float higher messes with ATO though right? my sump arrives tommorrow. ordered one a few months ago and showed up with diamond plate cracked.
anyway ive got to retro this ti q reefer 450 so ive got a fun day today. I am thinking avast ato in return pump section. i am going to put the murlock for water to be removed for awc in the extra bulkhead intended for Bean overflow. four stock tubes- awc return, Alk, Ca, and ?? maybe ab+. also current sump is a crystal sea triton custom build. HUGE FUGE but no mech filtration at all. not ever. water looks like soup at times. looking fwd to beung polished again.
anyway just thinking out loud bringing this thread back to top im sure ill have ?'s
anyway ive got to retro this ti q reefer 450 so ive got a fun day today. I am thinking avast ato in return pump section. i am going to put the murlock for water to be removed for awc in the extra bulkhead intended for Bean overflow. four stock tubes- awc return, Alk, Ca, and ?? maybe ab+. also current sump is a crystal sea triton custom build. HUGE FUGE but no mech filtration at all. not ever. water looks like soup at times. looking fwd to beung polished again.
anyway just thinking out loud bringing this thread back to top im sure ill have ?'s
Similar threads
- Price: 600
- Shipping NOT Available
- Price: 1
- Shipping NOT Available
