Apex Quit Working!!!!emergency

lsingh · Jan 19, 2013

came home last night and notice my lights werent on and i coudnt hear anything ....sure did open the stands cabinet and my return pump wasnt on and other things werernt working aswell.......
tried to do everthing thing disconnect and even updated the latest firmware on my apex still woudnt turn on...apex screen is stuck and woudnt even let me make changes on the display no matter what i do....

i am running couple halides directely via extension cabel now and a wave box...
need help please !!
i got 3 eb8 connected to my apex they all are blinking green but none of the stuff plug into them will turn on...

Dustin1300 · Jan 19, 2013

Sorry to hear, know the feeling. At least you were not at MACNA when controller decided to fail....Now I keep an extra base module on standby with latest configs!

Some questions:

- From your posts sounds like you can access interface?
- On the modules are they showing as connected?
- Have you tried turning everything off? Then power up base module and plug each expansion/display one by one?

At this moment you realize why you should have fallbacks correctly set. (i.e. return pumps on, PHs, I have 1/3 heaters set to ON with controller on heater set to a couple degrees higher)

lsingh · Jan 19, 2013

when i log on through computer is says its connected and they r on....for some reason through my aquanotes screen looks wiered like missing ports like salinity...it wont show salinity probe..

i cant make any changes ..even my display screen is froze and dislaying the reading from yesterday ...

this is really wiered...some of my reactors r working fine connected on same eb port and some stuff plugged in is not working atall...but on computer it shows they r on..

Dustin1300 · Jan 19, 2013

lsingh said:
when i log on through computer is says its connected and they r on....for some reason through my aquanotes screen looks wiered like missing ports like salinity...it wont show salinity probe..

i cant make any changes ..even my display screen is froze and dislaying the reading from yesterday ...

this is really wiered...some of my reactors r working fine connected on same eb port and some stuff plugged in is not working atall...but on computer it shows they r on..

Sounds like things that are on are set that way in fallback most likely. Do the eb8s show solid green light on each one? Do the probes show really crazy readings?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.

lsingh · Jan 19, 2013

Eb8 r blinking green light ...
Probes showing readings on display from last night and display is froze

Dustin1300 · Jan 19, 2013

lsingh said:
Eb8 r blinking green light ...
Probes showing readings on display from last night and display is froze

Blinking green means it can't communicate. It'd be solid green if it was connected properly to base module. I really can't think of anything else if you've done the above....You could try using your latest configs and do a factory reset but honestly don't think it will do much for you. My verdict is fried base module but I'm not an Apex expert, just sounds similar to my situation.

robby2782 · Jan 19, 2013

I just replaced mine but the warrant expires after a year. They'll ask you to send your module in but you'll have run your tank manually while it's being repaired. I just bought a new base for $250 having it overnighted to me.

Sorry to hear that, I know how frustrating it can be.

vbsaltydog · Jan 20, 2013

My apex stopped working the other day and after trying to access the web interface, I got a 404 error so I reinstalled the firmware (web pages only which states it will not override stored settings) which brought the functions back online but it DID wipe out my settings.

My devices were stuck in the state that they were assigned by the apex when the apex firmware broke. Luckily my dosing pumps were not on. As a result, I consider the apex unreliable and a potential threat to my livestock.

In my opinion, the apex uses low grade hardware which is why it behaves this way and why changing settings via the web interface sometimes takes multiple submits before the setting is actually stored in the EEPROM (non-volatile memory).

While Paul at neptune support is a nice guy and they do seem to have good customer support service, it does not change the fact that the apex is low grade equipment with a premium price tag.

We should expect better from a $500.00 controller.

robby2782 · Jan 20, 2013

$500? That's just for a base kit! Lol

I agree though

Bootstrap · Jan 20, 2013

Apex lite with dc8 is like 369

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vbsaltydog · Jan 20, 2013

Amended.

$369.00 + tax + shipping = $400.00

We should expect better from a $400.00 , and up, controller.

This is, in no way, a complaint against Paul at neptune support. This is a complaint against the low grade components and substandard firmware at neptune engineering that is at the root of every problem that the apex users experience, myself included.

Bootstrap · Jan 20, 2013

What brand of controller would you reccommend. Im in the market

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fragmatic · Jan 20, 2013

Ouch! so sorry.

I don't have any help and I'm not being a smart Axx, but this is exactly why I'm gun shy to controllers and do all my own with timers, relays, STC-1000, etc. I can fix any dysfunction problem in minutes, it all came out of my own head.

And, knock on wood, I've never had a dysfunction. OOPS, I should not of said that!

Good luck,

vbsaltydog · Jan 20, 2013

Bootstrap said:
What brand of controller would you reccommend. Im in the market

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD

I have little experience with them but the GHL Profilux has a stellar reputation for both, product reviews as well as customer support.
The same seems true for the Reef Angel although it requires more of a technical background vs the GHL Profilux.

The reef angel has a very complete package and comes in under $250.00 while the Profilux is in the top tier pricing model so pound-for-pound, I think the reef angel is best value at this time.

vbsaltydog · Jan 20, 2013

fragmatic said:
this is exactly why I'm gun shy to controllers and do all my own with timers, relays, STC-1000, etc. I can fix any dysfunction problem in minutes, it all came out of my own head.

There is no reason to be shy of a controller that is built on solid hardware that does not require multiple saves before the save "takes" in the memory and does not randomly die requiring a complete re-flash/rebuild while in a production environment where lives depend on it's reliable operation. Dont blame all controllers for the failings of a few.

Having said that, I respect the old school method too. If you have time to dose by hand and choose to use low tech devices like mechanical timers and have successful results then there is nothing wrong with that IMO.

To each his (or her) own.

Bootstrap · Jan 20, 2013

vbsaltydog said:
I have little experience with them but the GHL Profilux has a stellar reputation for both, product reviews as well as customer support.
The same seems true for the Reef Angel although it requires more of a technical background vs the GHL Profilux.

The reef angel has a very complete package and comes in under $250.00 while the Profilux is in the top tier pricing model so pound-for-pound, I think the reef angel is best value at this time.

Thanks for the insight. The lighting I'm looking at now is a reef breeders led, which controls itself. So really im doubting my needs for a controller at all

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mc-cro · Jan 20, 2013

I have an Apex unit, I love it for controlling lights and monitoring remotely since I travel weekly. However, I it not connected to anything that could be fatal to my tank for this exact reason.

My heaters are on a Ranco controller, my CaRx is on a miluakee controller, and my top of is on a Tunze. The controller only contorls fans, lights, vortechs, and other non lethal items.

vbsaltydog · Jan 20, 2013

IMO, anything critical to the inhabitants lives (Heaters, Chillers, Dosers) should either be high quality or redundant systems, and ideally, both.

What I mean specifically is, critical items that can kill quickly (heaters, chillers) should not have a single point of failure. In the case of thermostats, you should have one on the device itself (ranco for example) set at the desired temp threshold plugged into a controller's outlet that has the same temperature thresholds but offset by a few degrees so that if the device thermostat (ranco,integrated,etc) fails then the controller's thermostat will act as a backup and prevent the device failure from cooking/freezing the tank.

In the case of heaters, it is also a good idea to use two smaller heaters vs one large heater so that both of the heater's integrated thermostats would have to fail separately in order to overheat the tank. This greatly reduces the chances of an overheated tank. Plug the heaters into a controller outlet and the chances of overheating are astronomically in your favor.

In the case of dosers, it is not feasible to run multi-layered dosers (Litermeter backed up by GHL doser) so the best practice is to run a high quality doser (Litermeter, GHL) plugged into a controller outlet and then use the controller to watch for indirect signs of overdosing. If the controller sees a sudden rise in pH, then shut the outlet to the doser off because the doser is likely overdosing Alkalinity.

If you follow these best practices then a controller can be an invaluable resource. If the controller itself is prone to leaving outlets on (apex,rk) because of poor implementation of solid state relays, the firmware freezes and leaves outlets in the last known state (apex), etc then the chances of that controller causing a problem obviously increase.

In conclusion, controllers are great when they operate reliably. My current recommendations are the reef angel for those with moderate technical skills and the GHL Profilux for those that lack technical skills but can afford to pay a little more to get a quality item.

These are all my opinions and should be taken as such.