Aquascaping for days! What do you think?

JoJosReef · Mar 13, 2023

Tank: IM 40L AIO (3ft x 15" display)
Flow: 1x Maxspect Jump 2k Gyre (maybe lateral at the top? maybe vertical on a side?); 2x Mightyjet 538gph return pumps, each one split two ways with locline and RFGs.
Rocks: very old Fiji and Tonga real deal reef rocks, super porous, been dry for 5 years; seeding with TBS rocks and a 10g tank transfer

Goals: (1) environment for fish and inverts to move about, find their special spots, swim through, hide and be their best selves.
(2) separate spaces for corals and 'hopefully' nems to have their own places. I plan on having 2-3 BTAs, and hopefully a large island will give them some separation, but who knows.
(3) ample sand bed for small islands and meaty corals like trachy, scoly, plates, etc.

Here's a starter:

NOTE: The left third of the tank is reserved for my 10g transfer.
This whole way over-packed tank is getting moved over:

Continuing with the scape of the other 2/3rds of the tank:

The sand should be coming up to almost the top of the arch in the second rock, so I think this will be a nice space for a goby/pistol or my firefish to develop as a cave. My firefish currently inhabits a similar hole in his 10g aquascape. This seems rock is good as is. Maybe some redesign of the branching rocks sitting on top of the base...

This middle rock I like because it has big holes going through it, which might be ideal for a cleaner shrimp hangout or fish to swim through (especially if there's any bullying). As is, in this picture, there's some space on either slope for corals, but it isn't the most attractive structure.

Alternatives:

This was my initial idea with this rock: a tower-like structure, which makes the holes vertical, giving more "headspace" to swim through. But, it is extremely tall in the tank and would be just an inch to 1.5 inches under the water surface at the tip. I also worry that it would block the gyre flow if the gyre is placed horizontally at the top. I also worry that it won't be super stable, since it requires some rocks underneath to brace it...

Another alternative:

And with a barnacle that just happens to fit perfectly:

In this version, the holes are more horizontal, but maybe that's not a problem for the fish/inverts. It would be raised a bit, so there would be a tunnel-like structure at the sand bed. And there would be space for corals on the tops/sides. I would probably keep the sides next to the barnacles clear or maybe put monti caps so there's no blockage of the holes. This area will be a bit less par, since it will sit between 2 Noopsyche K7 minis.

And this is where I am currently. Still have a box full of these Fiji/Tonga rocks I can mess around with, but I would love to use the 2-hole rock in some way.

What do you all think?

Additional questions:

1. where would you try to put BTAs in the hope that they stay put?
2. Stocking plan: TSB, exquisite firefish, 2 occelaris clowns [all currently owned]; 2-3 bengaii cardinals, yasha goby (randall pistol already in nano), midas blenny; temporary residents: baby foxface and baby tomini--to be gifted/rehomed after growing beyond X inches (for algae/bubble algae control... may just cycle babies until I get a much larger tank one day... or not do this at all).
==> With these fish in mind, what is the best scape for them to utilize?

If you got this far, thanks! Appreciate your thoughts!

vetteguy53081 · Mar 13, 2023

JoJosReef said:
Tank: IM 40L AIO (3ft x 15" display)
Flow: 1x Maxspect Jump 2k Gyre (maybe lateral at the top? maybe vertical on a side?); 2x Mightyjet 538gph return pumps, each one split two ways with locline and RFGs.
Rocks: very old Fiji and Tonga real deal reef rocks, super porous, been dry for 5 years; seeding with TBS rocks and a 10g tank transfer

Goals: (1) environment for fish and inverts to move about, find their special spots, swim through, hide and be their best selves.
(2) separate spaces for corals and 'hopefully' nems to have their own places. I plan on having 2-3 BTAs, and hopefully a large island will give them some separation, but who knows.
(3) ample sand bed for small islands and meaty corals like trachy, scoly, plates, etc.

Here's a starter:

NOTE: The left third of the tank is reserved for my 10g transfer.
This whole way over-packed tank is getting moved over:

Continuing with the scape of the other 2/3rds of the tank:

The sand should be coming up to almost the top of the arch in the second rock, so I think this will be a nice space for a goby/pistol or my firefish to develop as a cave. My firefish currently inhabits a similar hole in his 10g aquascape. This seems rock is good as is. Maybe some redesign of the branching rocks sitting on top of the base...

This middle rock I like because it has big holes going through it, which might be ideal for a cleaner shrimp hangout or fish to swim through (especially if there's any bullying). As is, in this picture, there's some space on either slope for corals, but it isn't the most attractive structure.

Alternatives:

This was my initial idea with this rock: a tower-like structure, which makes the holes vertical, giving more "headspace" to swim through. But, it is extremely tall in the tank and would be just an inch to 1.5 inches under the water surface at the tip. I also worry that it would block the gyre flow if the gyre is placed horizontally at the top. I also worry that it won't be super stable, since it requires some rocks underneath to brace it...

Another alternative:

And with a barnacle that just happens to fit perfectly:

In this version, the holes are more horizontal, but maybe that's not a problem for the fish/inverts. It would be raised a bit, so there would be a tunnel-like structure at the sand bed. And there would be space for corals on the tops/sides. I would probably keep the sides next to the barnacles clear or maybe put monti caps so there's no blockage of the holes. This area will be a bit less par, since it will sit between 2 Noopsyche K7 minis.

And this is where I am currently. Still have a box full of these Fiji/Tonga rocks I can mess around with, but I would love to use the 2-hole rock in some way.

What do you all think?

Additional questions:

1. where would you try to put BTAs in the hope that they stay put?
2. Stocking plan: TSB, exquisite firefish, 2 occelaris clowns [all currently owned]; 2-3 bengaii cardinals, yasha goby (randall pistol already in nano), midas blenny; temporary residents: baby foxface and baby tomini--to be gifted/rehomed after growing beyond X inches (for algae/bubble algae control... may just cycle babies until I get a much larger tank one day... or not do this at all).
==> With these fish in mind, what is the best scape for them to utilize?

If you got this far, thanks! Appreciate your thoughts!

Every aquascape is one's creation and to be admired by the main person - You
often placing 5 different ways and taking a pick each time and going back and reviewing each time will put you where you like the formation best

JoJosReef · Mar 13, 2023

vetteguy53081 said:
Every aquascape is one's creation and to be admired by the main person - You
often placing 5 different ways and taking a pick each time and going back and reviewing each time will put you where you like the formation best

Thanks! You have loads of fish. Do you find that they use the spaces you created in the ways you imagined?

I currently have a TSB that lives in a barnacle but is very active in a 10g, a firefish that lives beneath a rock and comes out to eat, and two occelaris in a 13.5h that live next to the return nozzles and hang out there all the time.

Wondering what a few cardinals, a midas and maybe the baby foxface and tomini would do.

vetteguy53081 · Mar 13, 2023

JoJosReef said:
Thanks! You have loads of fish. Do you find that they use the spaces you created in the ways you imagined?

I currently have a TSB that lives in a barnacle but is very active in a 10g, a firefish that lives beneath a rock and comes out to eat, and two occelaris in a 13.5h that live next to the return nozzles and hang out there all the time.

Wondering what a few cardinals, a midas and maybe the baby foxface and tomini would do.

tHEY USE EVEY CRANNY THEY CAN FIND

srobertb · Mar 13, 2023

Reading is hard for me but I did my best.

I like the vertical look of the rock. I would use more rock/integrate what you have in the 10g as opposed to just making it 1/3. It’s all personal preference and your plan will make transfer easy which shouldn’t be discounted.

Your questions:

1. You can try a BTA on its own personal island to keep it stationary. But it can still wander. They tend not to be picky on flow so long as it isn’t blasting them. They will walk for light. I believe if you get one, this will be the issue. I think you’re light on light (ha!). I would not only aim for at least 200w total max power for your tank but I would be careful about spreading it over 3’. I’d run 2, Radion XR15’s spaced apart personally but you have lots of options. You could add a 3rd Noopsyche as an option too, 2 Kessil A360x’s, Maxxspects, look at generics, etc. This is based on trying to keep a Bubble Tip in my IM Nuvo10g with a single Kessil A160 and watching it climb To the waterline and strain to get enough light.

2. I don’t believe in temporary stocking fish that will outgrow my tank but I don’t want to come off judge-y. Flat out that is way too many fish to not find yourself chasing nitrates and/or be tethered to your tank. I also have to mention it would also be somewhat cruel to the fish (which I get not everyone cares about). Tangs and Foxfaces need long raceways to swim. Look at a Kole tang. They’re hardier. They don’t get as big. They crush algae. They tend to be more relaxed and don’t need to run laps- because you don’t have enough room for any tang (baby or adult) to stretch their legs. The Kole Tang would also, in my opinion, use up the rest of the space you have after your new goby and current fish. Stick with what you got, maybe add a homie for your pistol shrimp and some Cardinals (or a Kole Tamg) down the road once you’re in a good place. Just my 2 cents.

Going down that road: Are you skimming? Sorry if you mentioned it. I have (or had) the IM Nuvo AIO 10, 25, 40, and 120g. You can fit a refugium in the back and possibly one of the Tunze square skimmers. It’s the best you can get. You’ll need it.

Another 2 cents: It seems like you’re a soft coral guy (again sorry if you mentioned aspirations for SPS). You will be fine running with the 2x mighty jets and some random flow generators for flow. Personally I ran an MP40 dialed back on mine but I only had 1 return pump.

JoJosReef · Mar 13, 2023

srobertb said:
Reading is hard for me but I did my best.

I like the vertical look of the rock. I would use more rock/integrate what you have in the 10g as opposed to just making it 1/3. It’s all personal preference and your plan will make transfer easy which shouldn’t be discounted.

Your questions:

1. You can try a BTA on its own personal island to keep it stationary. But it can still wander. They tend not to be picky on flow so long as it isn’t blasting them. They will walk for light. I believe if you get one, this will be the issue. I think you’re light on light (ha!). I would not only aim for at least 200w total max power for your tank but I would be careful about spreading it over 3’. I’d run 2, Radion XR15’s spaced apart personally but you have lots of options. You could add a 3rd Noopsyche as an option too, 2 Kessil A360x’s, Maxxspects, look at generics, etc. This is based on trying to keep a Bubble Tip in my IM Nuvo10g with a single Kessil A160 and watching it climb To the waterline and strain to get enough light.

2. I don’t believe in temporary stocking fish that will outgrow my tank but I don’t want to come off judge-y. Flat out that is way too many fish to not find yourself chasing nitrates and/or be tethered to your tank. I also have to mention it would also be somewhat cruel to the fish (which I get not everyone cares about). Tangs and Foxfaces need long raceways to swim. Look at a Kole tang. They’re hardier. They don’t get as big. They crush algae. They tend to be more relaxed and don’t need to run laps- because you don’t have enough room for any tang (baby or adult) to stretch their legs. The Kole Tang would also, in my opinion, use up the rest of the space you have after your new goby and current fish. Stick with what you got, maybe add a homie for your pistol shrimp and some Cardinals (or a Kole Tamg) down the road once you’re in a good place. Just my 2 cents.

Going down that road: Are you skimming? Sorry if you mentioned it. I have (or had) the IM Nuvo AIO 10, 25, 40, and 120g. You can fit a refugium in the back and possibly one of the Tunze square skimmers. It’s the best you can get. You’ll need it.

Another 2 cents: It seems like you’re a soft coral guy (again sorry if you mentioned aspirations for SPS). You will be fine running with the 2x mighty jets and some random flow generators for flow. Personally I ran an MP40 dialed back on mine but I only had 1 return pump.

Thanks, great info!

RE: temporary residents, if the 40L is not going to be spacious enough for a small foxface or tang, I'll not go that route. Still a lot to read on that, but I read from others that foxfaces do an excellent job on bubble algae, which is my biggest challenge right now. Emerald crabs just aren't doing it. They keep giving up 3/4 of the way through and invariably start bothering other things.

I have the IM midsize skimmer. Hope that works as well as the Tunze. Macroalgae is in the display. Keeping the back clutter-free. Will also add an IM fleece roller.

I will be feeding using a refrigerator and Reef Factory doser to pump a slurry of multiple Reef Nutrition liquid foods throughout the day/night, and an Eheim autofeeder will drop some TDO and NLS small pellets during the day. I also enjoy target feeding. IM nori holder clip as well. With this feeding regimen in the 2 nano tanks, I'm currently having trouble keeping nitrates up and PO4 down.

I have aspirations for easy SPS. Birdsnests, stylos, pavona, and montis. Nothing harder than that. I like meaty LPS, RFAs, and BTAs. Also gorgonians and zoas.

RE: light, if the Noops aren't covering enough, I have an AI Prime 16HD on backup, and I plan on adding a Kessil with narrow reflector when I one day get a clam. I have a new PARwise to check on that!

Thanks again!!

srobertb · Mar 13, 2023

JoJosReef said:
Thanks, great info!

RE: temporary residents, if the 40L is not going to be spacious enough for a small foxface or tang, I'll not go that route. Still a lot to read on that, but I read from others that foxfaces do an excellent job on bubble algae, which is my biggest challenge right now. Emerald crabs just aren't doing it. They keep giving up 3/4 of the way through and invariably start bothering other things.

I have the IM midsize skimmer. Hope that works as well as the Tunze. Macroalgae is in the display. Keeping the back clutter-free. Will also add an IM fleece roller.

I will be feeding using a refrigerator and Reef Factory doser to pump a slurry of multiple Reef Nutrition liquid foods throughout the day/night, and an Eheim autofeeder will drop some TDO and NLS small pellets during the day. I also enjoy target feeding. IM nori holder clip as well. With this feeding regimen in the 2 nano tanks, I'm currently having trouble keeping nitrates up and PO4 down.

I have aspirations for easy SPS. Birdsnests, stylos, pavona, and montis. Nothing harder than that. I like meaty LPS, RFAs, and BTAs. Also gorgonians and zoas.

RE: light, if the Noops aren't covering enough, I have an AI Prime 16HD on backup, and I plan on adding a Kessil with narrow reflector when I one day get a clam. I have a new PARwise to check on that!

Thanks again!!

Why are you constantly feeding via slurry/fridge? That setup is typically for Garden Eels or NPS corals.

I have had good luck with high nutrient and high alkalinity with SPS but it’s a fine line and difficult to maintain. You will have high nutrients.

I looked at all the skimmers and settled on the Tunze. Does it compare to a “real” skimmer? No. Was it somewhat effective? Yes. I didn’t know IM made a skimmer since the ghost model. I used KLIR-4’s in my NUVO 120 and they worked pretty well with a minor mod. I’ll have to check out the new IM rollers.

My Foxface is useless. He eats pellets and frozen food and threatens to cut me if I put my hand in his space. Anecdotal but just a heads up. I have a very small patch of bubble algae here or there. No idea who’s eating it.

In my 10g I use it for nutrient export.

This is all anecdotal but that’s 60% of this hobby.

JoJosReef · Mar 13, 2023

srobertb said:
Why are you constantly feeding via slurry/fridge? That setup is typically for Garden Eels or NPS corals.

I have had good luck with high nutrient and high alkalinity with SPS but it’s a fine line and difficult to maintain. You will have high nutrients.

I looked at all the skimmers and settled on the Tunze. Does it compare to a “real” skimmer? No. Was it somewhat effective? Yes. I didn’t know IM made a skimmer since the ghost model. I used KLIR-4’s in my NUVO 120 and they worked pretty well with a minor mod. I’ll have to check out the new IM rollers.

My Foxface is useless. He eats pellets and frozen food and threatens to cut me if I put my hand in his space. Anecdotal but just a heads up. I have a very small patch of bubble algae here or there. No idea who’s eating it.

In my 10g I use it for nutrient export.

This is all anecdotal but that’s 60% of this hobby.

NPS and filter feeders. Currently just a dendro, but will get more. Love my porcelain crabs, and I target feed them every day, but the liquid food doser is going to help with that. My trachy and scoly open up at night, so a little bit of Mysis/Oyster/Pod/Phyto feasts to them won't hurt. Also getting more sponges. Note: I won't be blasting many mLs of liquid food. Between 2 nanos, I'm running about 2.5mL per day.

With my Botrycladia, codium and pom pom, I am running very low nitrates despite squirting in 1.25mL of Reef Nutrition slurry per day in each tank + TDO pellets (10g) or NLS pellets (13.5g). 0.5-1ppm NO3, but PO4 is closer to 0.1-0.25ppm.

I read about your KLIRs! Didn't your 120 AIO get a leak or had to get broken down for some reason? The IM rollers are manual rollers, so no automated rolling, which I like since this is an office tank and I want as few breakable parts as possible.

Noted on the foxface. Goal in life is to find something that will take care of the bubble algae, because I can't keep up with it manually!

NewCaliCaptives · Mar 28, 2023

I think probably a no go on any tang or foxface. Not to be the tang police because I do have a baby bristletooth in a 40 breeder, albeit his only tank mate being a sand sifting goby. But you need to keep in mind the minimum rank sizes for those fish are 60-75 gallons depending on where you look, that tank is only 30 gallons (display vol excluding filter chambers). You also need to consider the bio load a tang will add is not equal to “one more fish” (filefish or even a clown). They have massive poops you can even see

!!

Bubble algae might just need to be hand removed, use the emeralds and hand removal to be more thorough? Wish i could help more. If you do go the tang route i heard on a reef builders podcast a while back theyre much more likely to eat it if it is popped by you. Yes this will spread the spores, but so will anything else that’s popping it to eat it lol

rocket098 · Mar 28, 2023

Now drill some holes for easy coral placements.

JoJosReef · Mar 28, 2023

Got wet today!

Note: right hand side is space for my 10g tank transfer.

Bit muddy given all the fiji mud added. But will get it sorted out.

NewCaliCaptives said:
I think probably a no go on any tang or foxface. Not to be the tang police because I do have a baby bristletooth in a 40 breeder, albeit his only tank mate being a sand sifting goby. But you need to keep in mind the minimum rank sizes for those fish are 60-75 gallons depending on where you look, that tank is only 30 gallons (display vol excluding filter chambers). You also need to consider the bio load a tang will add is not equal to “one more fish” (filefish or even a clown). They have massive poops you can even see !!

Bubble algae might just need to be hand removed, use the emeralds and hand removal to be more thorough? Wish i could help more. If you do go the tang route i heard on a reef builders podcast a while back theyre much more likely to eat it if it is popped by you. Yes this will spread the spores, but so will anything else that’s popping it to eat it lol

Not going with any tang. Also unlikely to get a baby foxface, since it might be very stressful to rehome it. I'm just going to scrub the rocks a bit during the tank transfer and cross my fingers on the emerald crabs.