ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

chris_san

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Même à 100% en Sps Plakativ mon bac avait l'air sombre. Je ne me soucis pas du par mais j'aime avoir un bac bien éclairé.
Aussi j'ai l'habitude de faire pousser des acropora , à même le sol .
Mon bac fait 55cm de profondeur .
Avec les STRATON, tous les coraux du sol poussaient comme des plantes qui cherchent la lumière.
Ils poussent très fin , marron ...
En un mois d'Hqi, ils ont déjà bien récupérés.
Je ne dis pas que c’est un mauvais éclairage car tous les acropora qui se trouvent à 20cm sous la surface ont continué à pousser normalement .
 

oreo54

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Même à 100% en Sps Plakativ mon bac avait l'air sombre. Je ne me soucis pas du par mais j'aime avoir un bac bien éclairé.
Aussi j'ai l'habitude de faire pousser des acropora , à même le sol .
Mon bac fait 55cm de profondeur .
Avec les STRATON, tous les coraux du sol poussaient comme des plantes qui cherchent la lumière.
Ils poussent très fin , marron ...
En un mois d'Hqi, ils ont déjà bien récupérés.
Je ne dis pas que c’est un mauvais éclairage car tous les acropora qui se trouvent à 20cm sous la surface ont continué à pousser normalement .
Thank you for the explaination.
Mh's will usually look brighter, more rgb "white" content, but that has nothing to do w/ "par". A visual preference.
BUT your ground observations do..
Not real surprising the leds have less penetration, so would t5's.
 

chris_san

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Je pense qu'un décor plat avec tous les coraux au même niveau serait mieux adapté au led .
Mon décor contient beaucoup trop d’étages.
 

Quiverfull

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Je pense qu'un décor plat avec tous les coraux au même niveau serait mieux adapté au led .
Mon décor contient beaucoup trop d’étages.
@chris_san

Merci pour votre participation. Mon appareil est vieux et j'ai l'intention de le remplacer cette année. Quel match dirigez-vous actuellement ?
 

Rando

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I'll send the two Stratons back to ATI. they are just too weak, lose way too much PAR as it goes down. Even if I move the MQ-510 sensor just a few cm, a few cm below the lamp to the left or right, the light loses its intensity very much.
 

chris_san

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spectres de giesemann
Megachrome coral 2x250w,2 ati blue plus et 2 ati actinic.
 

nornicle

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I'll send the two Stratons back to ATI. they are just too weak, lose way too much PAR as it goes down. Even if I move the MQ-510 sensor just a few cm, a few cm below the lamp to the left or right, the light loses its intensity very much.
This is very curious - I just checked my notes with a ‘mq-510 I was getting 500PAR on the centre floor of a 24” deep tank (note I was running three in a row), and 700par at about 12” down…. This was 100% on SPS plakativ I’ve since turned it down to max 85%.

also it’s never hot to touch, just slightly warm and I live in Australia not a cold country!

to be even clearer these measurements were made with my net cover ON!

I keep two tenuis - homewrecker and walt Disney at 12” down and both have developed good colours, with the homewrecker developing orange tips since I went to 85%.

257C73D2-0BB8-49FE-8920-08275D5EDB89.jpeg
 

WorkingHands

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I can do it tomorrow. I first dismantled the lamps and put my radion on again. I'll call ATI tomorrow and ask what's wrong. Possibly one of the LED controllers is defective ... because one needed 1 1/2 hours to show up in the WiFi and before that, neither the green network LED nor the lamp worked on it. The blue only looks so extreme with the iPhone.
What is the temperature you see when you login to one of the lights, go to the chart tab and click the thermometer symbol at the bottom left of the screen?
 

Quiverfull

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Interesting. I have numerous Acro's growing anywhere from 20 to 30 inches below my Starton's
Could there be a "bad batch" of the newer fixtures that just became available? Would be interested to know when those with problems purchased their fixtures...
 

ScottB

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I'll send the two Stratons back to ATI. they are just too weak, lose way too much PAR as it goes down. Even if I move the MQ-510 sensor just a few cm, a few cm below the lamp to the left or right, the light loses its intensity very much.
I cannot guess what is wrong with your fixtures or your settings but they are anomalous for sure.

I was just trying to match 8X80 watt Sunpower (T5) and had to drop down to the LPS setting to match that at 75% given 3 fixtures. This was measured with the MQ-210 but doesn't matter much. Just wanted to match. Something seems off to me.

51580.jpg
 

Acrofiend

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Such an awesome light! I couldn’t decide between these or the Phillips coral care and I’m glad I chose these. The sleekness of the fixture, the color rendering and the par these are able to put out are unmatched. WiFi controllability will occasionally disconnect but as long as you’re not tweaking your light schedule everyday you’ll be fine.
 

ScottB

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Such an awesome light! I couldn’t decide between these or the Phillips coral care and I’m glad I chose these. The sleekness of the fixture, the color rendering and the par these are able to put out are unmatched. WiFi controllability will occasionally disconnect but as long as you’re not tweaking your light schedule everyday you’ll be fine.
Agreed on all counts. They don't produce a strong signal, but I am a set/forget user.

I don't miss my old Sunpower 8 X 80 watt pumping out thousands of BTUs this time of year. My sticks didn't miss a beat, and it is hard to beat 640 watts of T5 with anything.
 

ScottB

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@ScottB have you been ramping your lights at all? I’m up to 81% now trying to get to 85 slowly
I should be but I have not. Still sitting at 75% peak power. That is where I had a PAR match to the Sunpower.

Sticks have been pretty happy there -- especially my WD -- here under evening blues. Someday I will learn how to photograph corals.

IMG-5324.jpg
 

Hydrored

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I should be but I have not. Still sitting at 75% peak power. That is where I had a PAR match to the Sunpower.

Sticks have been pretty happy there -- especially my WD -- here under evening blues. Someday I will learn how to photograph corals.

IMG-5324.jpg
Awesome! Leave it alone then
 

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